Roger Hicks
Veteran
Every photographer should have an incident light meter.
Unless they shoot exclusively LF B+W, in which case it's about the worst possible choice.
Cheers,
R.
Every photographer should have an incident light meter.
Nothing beats using an ambient meter shooting in manual. No in-camera meter can ever be 'consistently' accurate. Why? Because they only measure reflected light. They do not measure the light falling on the subject, which is much more accurate. In-camera meters are always confused and tricked by reflections and colors, making them untrustworthy. The argument against this is using 'exposure compensation'. This is backward thinking as you're guessing what you think the camera will do wrong then forcing it to compensate when you could do the same thing in manual, but with shot to shot consistency.
Nothing beats shooting in manual with an ambient meter in the hands of someone who understands light. This is the best advice any photographer can take on, trust me. Sadly, many don't share the same views as I, but many also don't rely on consistent photography for an income as I do. No doubt, the flaming will now come.
What do you mean by an 'ambient' meter?
If you mean 'incident light' (which from context appears to be the case), perhaps you would be kind enough to tell us how it can possibly guarantee adequate shadow exposure for B+W.
Cheers,
R.
Yes I mean 'incident' meter. Nothing is ever guaranteed in photography. That's the photographer's biggest weakness- looking for automation and guarantees, then being disappointed if the 'camera' doesn't deliver. It is NOT the camera's responsibility for the final result, it's the photographer's.
An incident meter will measure the ambient light falling on the subject - but the photographer must recognize when shadows need a little more exposure and can do one of two things:
1. put their hand over the top of the meter so it's discarding the reading of the highlights
2. read the light differences (with experience of course) and give the exposure an extra 1/3, 2/3 1 stop, or whatever they feel if required.
Photography has always been taught in manual, in this way because it's the best way photographer's can learn to read, analyze, recognize and adapt to light.
What do you mean by an 'ambient' meter?
If you mean 'incident light' (which from context appears to be the case), perhaps you would be kind enough to tell us how it can possibly guarantee adequate shadow exposure for B+W.
Cheers,
R.
Guaranteed adequate shadow exposure?
It does "guaranty" a more realistic representation of the scene.
Some shadows are meant to be "black".
I'm afraid I can't quite see your point.
You can't invent detail that isn't there.
In fact I'm happy that photography with technology has moved beyond banalities, such as exposure and wet printing and so on and now its purely about pictures.
Exposure, a banality? 😱
Exposure, a banality? 😱
We don't need light meters for our eyes to see the world properly, our eyes don't need AF to focus, so why not a camera emulate our senses and leave us to take pictures as we see it?
I'd rather be a photographer than a light meter expert or a printer expert and so on. I wish to take photos, post-process them. The technicalities of light meters and so on I leave to other craftsman.
The same way that I don't feel guilty about not being able to program my own post processing software, the same way i feel no guilt about the metering system in my camera that takes care of exposure 99% of the time and correctly. : )
Well, yes... You directly meter the darkest shadow in which you want texture and detail, using a spot meter, and let anything darker go black. I'm afraid I can't quite see your point.
Afterthought: at the printing stage, you can always discard shadow detail you don't want. You can't invent detail that isn't there.
Cheers,
R.
We don't need light meters for our eyes to see the world properly, our eyes don't need AF to focus, so why not a camera emulate our senses and leave us to take pictures as we see it?
Dear Carlos,My "point" was, and is that your "adequate shadow exposure" is a (very) fuzzy concept.
.
Dear Carlos,
No, it's not, actually.
'Adequate shadow detail' is shadow detail where you want it. Where is the fuzziness in this?
How much shadow detail you want is a matter of personal choice, and therefore fuzzy. But the point above - how you get the shadow detail - is not.
Cheers,
R.
Hmmmm,
meter the shadow in which you want texture? This is straight out of the Zone system which I know and use. But what's shadow for one person maybe and frequently is black or midtone for other people. And the zone system as it's written in the negative is based on an 11 zone system from 0 thru X with each zone being a 1 stop spread giving 10 stops from pure black to pure white. All basic zone system stuff. But....
Most subjects aren't 10 stops of range. They are less and using the meter for the shadows and develop for highlights rule of thumb produces negatives of varying highlight density. Since most subjects aren't 10 stops range it is perfectly reasonable to meter for the highlights in the knowledge that you will will always have adequate shadow exposure (except in a few cases) and you will get negatives which all print or scan with very similar times unlike when you meter for the shadows. An incident meter does exactly this for you as you know it is keyed for the highlights anyway. Only if you think the scene has excessive range do you need to give extra exposure. And you can do this with a spot or an incident meter. And for roll film users who are wet printing, I would suggest this is a better way of working since most people adjust print exposure for highlights and adjust contrast for the shadows.
Of course this assumes you have calibrated dev for the zone system 0 thru X because if you haven't and just go with film ISO speed and standard dev then there is less room for manoeuvre.
I think most guys know how to get the level of shadow detail that they want.
Erm they do. And a camera making your decisions for you does not a photographer make.