hypothetical question on mixing chemicals

[ampguy]

so if some d76 is mixed with some kodak regular fixer stock, would the resulting solution be better used as developer, or fixer??

 

[bsdunek]

I would say mix it half-and-half with Southern Comfort, put "Rear Window" in the DVD, and enjoy!

 

[nikon_sam]

I would say mix it half-and-half with Southern Comfort, put "Rear Window" in the DVD, and enjoy!

Or for the younger crowd who don't know who Grace Kelly is, you can watch "Disturbia"...😉

 

[ed1k]

Ever heard of monobath processing of BW film? Try it!

 

[oftheherd]

so if some d76 is mixed with some kodak regular fixer stock, would the resulting solution be better used as developer, or fixer??

I'm going to take it you are being serious. Obviously the two are antagonistic. D76 is alkaline and Fixer is acid. They will cancel each other's effect. Depending on the percentage of each, in an emergency you mght want to try using the mixture, but I would not. I would rather use coffee and seawater that that mixture.

 

[SolaresLarrave]

so if some d76 is mixed with some kodak regular fixer stock, would the resulting solution be better used as developer, or fixer??

Reusing D76 was plausible, but mixing developer and fixer wouldn't do anything for your film. It would do nothing at all...

In short, just don't do it. And if you do, don't use it. And if you use it, don't report it.

Have a very good day! 🙂

 

[ampguy]

well now

well now

so what if the results were something completely out of this world?? 😀

Reusing D76 was plausible, but mixing developer and fixer wouldn't do anything for your film. It would do nothing at all...

In short, just don't do it. And if you do, don't use it. And if you use it, don't report it.

Have a very good day! 🙂

 

[ampguy]

thanks

thanks

so as long as it clears undeveloped (but exposed) film pieces in some amount of time, it is ok fixer?

You can "contaminate forward" such as developer into stop... But not "backwards." What that means is you can use stop that's had developer put into it (and is normal); but you can't use developer that's had stop put into it. So in your case, it'd be ONLY usable as fixer. Though quite honestly, I'd probably trash it.

 

[ed1k]

ampguy, don't mix it because you don't know the right proportion. I was not kidding about monobath; and formulation for monobath processing is nothing else as a mix of developer and fixer. There was readily available monobath for amateurs in USSR. You just dissolve chemicals in water, soak the film in it for 5 or 6 minutes with constant agitation, rinse the film with water and you're done. The only real drawback you loose sensitivity for 1 stop or so. The results were not as bad as these guys report (first link by google, no relation)
http://photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/005Zzw

Monobath processing is not really worth trying, but we should not be ignorant. It does exist.

Ed

 

[maddoc]

There is a report about using HC-110 as monobath process (fixing and developing in once). The trick is the difference in process speed. Using a fast developer (3 minutes range, e.g. HC-110 "A" ) that develops enough of the shadows and a slow fixer, which works within a 6 minutes range and gives the developer enough time for the shadows before the siverhalogenides get fixed.
I guess, that D-76 is to slow for a true monobath process but HC-110 reportedly works. Advantage of monobath processing is that it reduces fogging of aged films.

 

[ampguy]

here is the outcome of one of 2 rolls fixed with "chemical x". Hexar AF, Reala 100, F2, used +1 EV or more on all, D76 was 2/3 D76, 1/3 soft water, so 2:1 ratio, 2 min. prewash in water, 9 min. developer, 2 min. water stop, 12 min. "chem x", hypo 2 min. wash 10 min.

Scanned with unsharp mask low, reduced and contrast/sharpen with picasa 3.

here

 

[George Bonanno]

It Works like A Charm...

It Works like A Charm...

For 256 ml of HC-110 Dilution A, instead of water, use 50 ml household clear ammonia, 10 ml Ilford Rapid Fixer concentrate and water to make up 256 ml including the HC-110 concentrate for Dilution A. At 75F this mix develops and fixes 400TX within ten minutes.

 

[ampguy]

Thanks Ed

Thanks Ed

I read about monobaths (couple of good threads, and references on pnet), and understand there are some books about it, one by an inventor with some patents on the process or mix. (Haier? (sp?)), and even discussion of monobaths by Roger and Frances Hicks in one of their books.

I'm not really that interested in it, other than I hate to waste chemicals and have some dev/fixer mixed together that I want to use up as a weak fixer.

ampguy, don't mix it because you don't know the right proportion. I was not kidding about monobath; and formulation for monobath processing is nothing else as a mix of developer and fixer. There was readily available monobath for amateurs in USSR. You just dissolve chemicals in water, soak the film in it for 5 or 6 minutes with constant agitation, rinse the film with water and you're done. The only real drawback you loose sensitivity for 1 stop or so. The results were not as bad as these guys report (first link by google, no relation)
http://photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/005Zzw

Monobath processing is not really worth trying, but we should not be ignorant. It does exist.

Ed

 

[ed1k]

> I'm not really that interested in it, other than I hate to waste chemicals and have some dev/fixer mixed together that I want to use up as a weak fixer.

Don't waste film - fixer is much cheaper. dev/fixer mixture is not a weak fixer, it's a garbage you should toss away.

 

[venchka]

And...........

Do you really know if the film is "fixed" permanently? It might go wonky on you in short order.

Time: Expensive
Cameras, Lenses & Film: Costly
Chemistry: Cheap!
Doing a job right the first time: Double cheap in the long run.
Developing once in a lifetime photos: Priceless