Uncle Bill
Well-known
I got some Ilford 8x10 RC Multigrade IV paper, filters, darkroom timer and a book on Darkroom Techniques by Roger Hicks and Frances Schultz for Christmas.
I have the Durst M300 enlarger, trays, head, enlarging lens, tongs, safelight, and I need is chemicals, squeege. and time.
So any recommendations on chemicals?
Bill
I have the Durst M300 enlarger, trays, head, enlarging lens, tongs, safelight, and I need is chemicals, squeege. and time.
So any recommendations on chemicals?
Bill
Bryce
Well-known
Developer- Dektol. It's cheap, easy to use, and leaves nice black blacks. I plan to make my own when Kodak gets around to actually quitting the business.
Stop and fix? More or less any will do. You won't need a wash aid for RC paper, and toning is not really worthwhile either.
Try it, you might like it.
Stop and fix? More or less any will do. You won't need a wash aid for RC paper, and toning is not really worthwhile either.
Try it, you might like it.
mbisc
Silver Halide User
Good for you!
I finally got my first wet darkroom two years ago, and have never looked back. It is absolutely awesome to be in your own darkroom and have control over all the chemicals, the equipment and everything!
I have used Dektol as well, but the one thing I wasn't too crazy about was the fact that you have to mix it up from powder. If you are not too cash-constrained, I would suggest using liquid chemicals. They are a bit more expensive, but they are much nicer to use. I have still to try the new liquid developers from Ilford myself, but I have heard good things about them. For the other chemicals (and again, although I agree with the other post that they don't really matter, I prefer liquid ones), I use Ilford's or Clayton's odorless Indicator Stop Bath, the odorless fixer from Clayton and a liquid Wash Aid (the brand escapes me right now, but it's a white bottle with a red label...)
Enjoy,
Mike
I finally got my first wet darkroom two years ago, and have never looked back. It is absolutely awesome to be in your own darkroom and have control over all the chemicals, the equipment and everything!
I have used Dektol as well, but the one thing I wasn't too crazy about was the fact that you have to mix it up from powder. If you are not too cash-constrained, I would suggest using liquid chemicals. They are a bit more expensive, but they are much nicer to use. I have still to try the new liquid developers from Ilford myself, but I have heard good things about them. For the other chemicals (and again, although I agree with the other post that they don't really matter, I prefer liquid ones), I use Ilford's or Clayton's odorless Indicator Stop Bath, the odorless fixer from Clayton and a liquid Wash Aid (the brand escapes me right now, but it's a white bottle with a red label...)
Enjoy,
Mike
Uncle Bill
Well-known
An update, I went all Ilford on the chemical route, all I need is a squeege and I can get that a local hardware store if I don't have one already somewhere.
Now, I have some reading to do before the lights go out
.
Bill
Now, I have some reading to do before the lights go out
.Bill
Nachkebia
Well-known
Lucky man! excellent! and congrats!
boilerdoc2
Well-known
Try the Ilford warm tone papers and the Harman Warm tone developer concentrate. It makes every print look like a Cartier-Bresson!
Steve
Steve
Bryce
Well-known
Squeegee... I was short one of those once, and ended up using a windshield wiper blade.
I thought I was being cheap/ lazy/ trashy 'till I read Ansel Adams recommends them in "The Print"...
Happy printing!
I thought I was being cheap/ lazy/ trashy 'till I read Ansel Adams recommends them in "The Print"...
Happy printing!
jan normandale
Film is the other way
Hey Bill... you are on the "True Path to Enlightenment"
I'm waiting for the next meet up and you can bring some 'paper' with you!
I'm waiting for the next meet up and you can bring some 'paper' with you!