kaiyen
local man of mystery
Mike Richards said:
I assume you mean thinner films _without_ AH backing, right?
I've actually never had any issue loading HIE onto my plastic reels. But my "preferred" reels are easier to load than any other brand I've ever laid hands upon. They look like the samigon ones at BH, and the extra flange/loading lip thing makes them incredibly easy to load.
allan
XAos
Well-known
I just dunked two rolls of 35 and a 120 in my reels. Adventuresome perhaps, but they seemed to load easily enough - I figured if I had problems it would be with dry reels and I could just transfer it to the plastic reels. ICCK - man this was bad. I had film stuck together resulting in huge silver deposits, mangled edges, and the like. It also pours VERY slowly. Interestingly enough, the roll of C-41 I dunked for experimentation did well (reel wise - the development results I wasn't that happy with) - which is what I'd been practicing with.
Tritisol - I may bring the reels if you're going to be there whenever we get the NC folks together.
Tritisol - I may bring the reels if you're going to be there whenever we get the NC folks together.
XAos
Well-known
Ok, I found some 16mm reels, they're kindermann and they came with the little kinderman loader. WOW. So THAT's the secret. I had wondered about them but hadn't heard much abou them, and they were a little pricey in 35mm. Magic. Will the kindermann loader work with other name brand steel reels? The center of the wire used to make the two faces is bent in a U and the U bends down from the plane of the faces to make a little ramp to get it started in the 16mm reels. My 35mm and 120 reels dont have that. (they're allegedly Nikor)
T_om
Well-known
XAos said:
I've never found it necessary to use a loader with stainless reels. Just another obstacle and I can probably load the reel as fast as someone can load the loader.
As for a Kindermann loader working with other reels.... I don't see why it would not provided the "other reels" have some method of firmly attaching the film to the reel core.
Personally, I wouldn't bother with the time/expense/trouble involved with a loader and just load manually as always. It REALLY is dead simple when you get the knack.
Tom
tetrisattack
Maximum Creativity!
I just wanted to chime in as another person who's using stainless steel to great effect, both 135 and 120. Once you "get" it, you'll be able to load the film in sixty seconds. There's a sound and a feel that a properly feediing reel makes, and it's like music to my ears.
Recently I've realized that the majority of problems while loading stainless steel stems from film that's not clipped in perfectly straight. If the film isn't loading straight, then it'll jump the track or crimp around the sprockets or worse. I stand while loading, hold the reel vertical, and let the film (still attached to the core) dangle straight down. Making sure the clip is centered is helpful, too.
Recently I've realized that the majority of problems while loading stainless steel stems from film that's not clipped in perfectly straight. If the film isn't loading straight, then it'll jump the track or crimp around the sprockets or worse. I stand while loading, hold the reel vertical, and let the film (still attached to the core) dangle straight down. Making sure the clip is centered is helpful, too.
kiev4a
Well-known
I load 120, 220 and 35mm on stainless reels, without a loader, without clips, in a changing bag. When I started developing film again, after being away from it for 20 years, I tried loading plastic reels exactly once. Managed to hit the pumphouse in the park across the street with one throw. Got ss reels and tank and have lived happily ever after. I do not understand what the big deal is about loading wire reels. The only time I've ever had problems was with no name reels.
kmack
do your job, then let go
Another vote for stainless steel reels. I don't do a lot of film anymore (no more than four to eight rolls a month), but I have had no touble loading the Hewes reels in a 15" changing bag. In such a small bag it's a pain to load anything over 24 exposures, but with practice it can be done quite quickly.
phototone
Well-known
Loading stainless steel reels is like riding a bicycle. Before you learn to ride, you wonder if it is even possible. Once you learn the "secret" it becomes second nature and you don't even think about it. It is subconcious.
Same thing with stainless steel spiral reels. It seems impossible until you train you mind and hands to do it. After a while your hands will be able to "see" everything right and you will just "know" when the film is going on the reel corrrectly and when it is cross-threaded. I can thread old somewhat bent-up reels just fine now. The "key" is to get the film clipped on the center spindle perfectlly lined up, if it starts good, it will wind good.
Take a reel, and a junk roll of film and practice sitting in your chair in the living room, loading over and over with your eyes closed. If you feel a snag, open your eyes and see what is the problem. Close your eyes when you attempt to fix the problem. Keep going, you will get it.
Same thing with stainless steel spiral reels. It seems impossible until you train you mind and hands to do it. After a while your hands will be able to "see" everything right and you will just "know" when the film is going on the reel corrrectly and when it is cross-threaded. I can thread old somewhat bent-up reels just fine now. The "key" is to get the film clipped on the center spindle perfectlly lined up, if it starts good, it will wind good.
Take a reel, and a junk roll of film and practice sitting in your chair in the living room, loading over and over with your eyes closed. If you feel a snag, open your eyes and see what is the problem. Close your eyes when you attempt to fix the problem. Keep going, you will get it.
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
My plastic reels are loading nicely now. I'm thinking about trying some Diafine today. 
zpuskas
Well-known
I've used a Jobo processor for about 10 years to develop my B&W 120 and 35mm films. Once I learned how to do it (load the film on the reel) correctly (which involved several wasted rolls) it's been easy every since. I use plastic reels, use a nail clipper to round the cut edges of film and ratchet load. I use a pair of pliers to open the film cassettes, grab the top or bottom and pull.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Steph: Just breathe... ;-) As others have pointed out and you've discovered, using a church key to open non-reusable cartridges is not a problem. I've never scratched a roll of film using a bottle opener.
I started out with Patterson (plastic) tanks and reels. I didn't like them. I switched to stainless steel (you use less solution as well) and after getting the hang of it, like them MUCH better. With the right technique, they almost load themselves. It is important to get good ones. The cheapies made in the 70s were, as mentioned, awful.
If you have trouble, the best thing is to find someone who knows how to use them and have them show you.
Trius
I started out with Patterson (plastic) tanks and reels. I didn't like them. I switched to stainless steel (you use less solution as well) and after getting the hang of it, like them MUCH better. With the right technique, they almost load themselves. It is important to get good ones. The cheapies made in the 70s were, as mentioned, awful.
If you have trouble, the best thing is to find someone who knows how to use them and have them show you.
Trius