I am fearing the worst. Pad of death

Actually POD isn't worst thing which could happen to your Electro. Imagine anything from fungus to shot electronics.
Changing POD with removed top cover is about one hour with tea/coffree/beer breaks (don't drink beer too much before installing pad as it requires some precision).
 
Heres what i posted on Flickr
see
http://www.flickr.com/groups/yashicaelectro/discuss/72157604091732215/
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got to you tube and search yashica electro or search this video thats how it sounds the clunk is good heres the names of the videos

Yashica Electro 35/MG-1 Clunk. English & Portuguese
and another
Yashica Electro 35 GSN - "Yashica thump"
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Clunk is good
no clunk is Bad.
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To check the lights
with your electro - set camera to Auto, aim at a light source that gives you a yellow light, then with another camera with a working meter that you trust set the aperture to the same setting as on the electro and select a shutter speed of 1/30th, you should get a reading that is either OK or shows too little light for a correct exposure - in other words the electros yellow light comes on when the shutter speed is at or lower than 1/30th. - BTW there are normally 3 or 4 apertures from a yellow light to a red light.

on the electro - if you are in Auto and the shutter behaves like it is in B mode then the camera may need a pod replacement
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then links for repair once diagnosed
http://feuerbacher.net/photo/frame.html?Cameras/Electro35GSN/Electro35GSN.html~Main

and
http://www.erikfiss.com/foto/cams/docs/pad-repair.html

Good luck - i have done 3 electros and they all work now BUT doing it through the front as in the picture called "locating the POD", using a pin to hold the pod while manuevering it into position, some people have wrecked their electros by taking the lens off to replace a POD - I have NOT done it by removing the lens
 
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Today worked on my beater GSN, and instead of G Electro 35 in place of POD there were relatively much of gum, cleaning took most of time. Some 15 minutes scraping out gummed POD with shaped wire, wiping with lighter fluid and about 5 min. to cut new POD and glue it in place. This is "hood off" method, I didn't removed lens assembly.
This time I were smarter than first time - didn't put glue on POD as gap into camera is so small - on first camera crazy glue touched lower edge of mask before meter and it were hard to free it. This time i put glue on place where POD should sit, then put POD on needle and safely seated it in place. Wound camera and POD were pressed by lower part. Released, POD remained in place. Wound again to press by lower part, left for some 3-5 minutes, released and after that moved further.
POD itself really isn't hardest job on Electros.
 
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Well i am going to attempt to replace the pad using the micro surgery method since i don't want to disassemble the lens housing.
Any tips?
Also what material would you recommend to replace the pad with. I have a rubber washer i can cut and double up to get the 2 mm thickness.
 
k3s, I'd go with 2mm rubber (or similar material) washer. I've got one about ~2.5mm thick, so I carefully peeled off thin layer to have just 2mm. Use glue sparingly to not change thickness of pad. You know rest - width 5mm, depth 4mm.
Otherwise follow YashicaGuy's (Matt Denton, Erik Fiss) directions on removing top cover and you will be fine. I mean put tape over batt. test button not to loose it. On last cameras to remove wind lever, I don't use spanner anymore, I use daughter's rubber boot to make a grip (and for removing front element on Lynx 5000, too). On first E35 I worked not detaching flash wire - it's a unnecessary constraint like running with tied legs; this time I did. Don't put glue on meter's mask, on lens, where else :)
Major tinkerer's trick is don't go too slowly loosing any interest, in same time not running like wild horse, crashing camera, tools and spilling naphta over the room. Find your tempo and have working Electro ;)
 
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I changed the pad and can hear the thump now. But the problem is now the shutter wount open when the button is triggered. What could be the culprit? I miss triggered something? etcc.
 
Thanks. But it seems like someone has tried to do the same repair. the top looks somewhat worn down and i tried using a screwdriver to turn it but it wount budge. Maybe it's stuck. Ill apply some heat to it with a soldering iron and try it.
 
maybe try a half-o-drop of WD40 or similar...remains of slot should be enough for you to make final adjustment.
 
Take the bottom plate off and adjust from the other end.

And I can not fathom how someone could ruin an Electro by removing the lens plate.
Obviously they were led down the path to ruin by wrong advice.
 
Me either. But everything else seems good. I replaced the pad and it makes the "thump sound" but that is the only problem i have encountered. Ill open up the bottom and see. Thanks.
 
Ah another problem. My father tried to help me repair the camera. But he ended up turning the wrong metal thing at the bottom, so he turned the one for the film advance lever. Now the lever will not advance, so do i just turn it until i can turn the lever? Right or left?
Sorry about these questions i know they are simple and such but i really want to salvage the camera.
 
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