I am the new owner of a Nikon D700 DSLR

Thank you for the long suggestions list, Nick.
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1. Tokina 17-35 f4 Pro ATX.

2. Nikon 50 f1.4 AF-D. Alternate: the venerable and cheap 50 1.8 AF-D. Alternate: Tamron 45mm f1.8 VC.

3. 70-210 AF-D. Alternate: Nikon 80-200 AI-s.

4. 85mm f1.8 G. Alternate 85mm f1.8 D.

5. 35mm f2.0 AF-D.

6. An AI'd 200 f4 Q (or Q.C.)

Cheap as chips 4 element telephoto with a built-in hood you can use as a baseball bat. Another lens I love. The newer AI-s 5 element version is supposedly better, sharper. But this lens is so simple it convinced me that low element count lenses are where it's at. Character to spare and a dimensional quality. It just renders beautifully. Magic.

7. Any 135 f2.8 by any manufacturer. .

8. 20-80mm 3.3-5.6.
 
If you want 80-200 but lighter weight then the 70-200 f/4 AF is the lens. I used it some with a D5300 and found it to be fast to AF and plenty sharp.

Back when I shot Nikon I tried several different 80-200's and found the AFS version the sharpest as well as the fastest to AF. Even sharper than the 1st version 70-200 AFS. Actually, right up there with the 200/2 and 300/2.8 AFS in terms of sharpness.
 
We are a helpful bunch here. But I fear we are making Raid's decision harder by giving so much advice. And I am one of the worst offenders. :):):)

The truth is that Nikon has made so many competent and in some cases superb lenses over the years that there is a surfeit of choice. Almost all Nikkors perform well on any full frame camera (though there are a few exceptions - one or two lenses that were regarded as not very good back in their time) and some - particularly the top end lenses perform brilliantly. Are they better than Canon equipment which Raid has some experience at least with FD lenses. Well Canon and Nikon owners have argued about this for decades. But they are certainly as good and the good thing with Nikon is almost 100% backward compatibility between its top end cameras and Nikkors (so long as you are willing to have non AI lenses converted of course. Which is a minor task in the overall scheme of things. And of course willing to forego AF where necessary.)
 
It is a good overview of several Nikkor lenses, and the feedback is very much appreciated by me, Peter. I will take it one step at a time with the D700. I will first figure out which of my Nikkor lenses are Ai'd or Ai. Then I am awaiting 2 CF cards.
 
Last night I was looking through some old files from my Nikon D50 and D70s from days ago when I was auditioning digital (ended up sticking w/ film). The shots were excellent, and these were small sensor cameras capable of beautiful bokeh w/ the right lens. So a D700 would certainly be a great camera, full frame or not.

At one time or another I have owned just about every Nikon lens made, and my favorites were the 80 200 2.8 AF zoom (excellent lens, but you WILL spook people when you point this bazooka at them on the street), the old model 28 200 G ED (sharp, and great walkabout lens), and the old H 50 2 manual focus lens (if your camera can meter w/ it, it's a sensational lens). Never cared for the 85 1.8 in MF or AF, but the 85 1.4 might be better.

Keep in mind that you can use Leica R manual focus lenses w/ a $20 Chinese adapter in stop down metering mode on Nikon cameras. Nikon glass is good, but.........
 
Hi Steve. I had no idea about being able to use an adapter with the D700 and Leica R lenses! I would love to use a Summicron 50/2 on my D700. You may have brought up an idea that will be costly to me. I love Leica glass, and 50mm lenses are my favorites.

I checked at ebay; a Summicron R costs from $350-(much higher)
 
Hi Steve. I had no idea about being able to use an adapter with the D700 and Leica R lenses! I would love to use a Summicron 50/2 on my D700. You may have brought up an idea that will be costly to me. I love Leica glass, and 50mm lenses are my favorites.

I checked at ebay; a Summicron R costs from $350-(much higher)

The other money pit I fell into back in those days. Leica 50 'cron and 28 Elmarit II. And Minolta 58/1.2 I converted to Nikon--don't attempt it--the mirror hits the rear lens housing.

I'd start with your favorite FL and find a nice AF version.
 
35mm and 50mm are my two favorite focal lengths, but the DSLR may be especially useful with a medium zoom 80-200 and short zoom 35-70.
 
but the 85 1.4 might be better.

Keep in mind that you can use Leica R manual focus lenses w/ a $20 Chinese adapter in stop down metering mode on Nikon cameras. Nikon glass is good, but........

Can't say anything about the 85 1.8 but the 85 1.4D is a fantastic lens.

Is it an adapter to use Leica R on Nikon or a replacement mount? There is only 0.5mm difference in flange length between the two, an adapter probably wouldn't allow infinity focus. There are lens mount replacements available though.

http://www.leitax.com/leica-lens-for-nikon-cameras.html

Shawn
 
This is getting complicated, Shawn. I better keep it easy and basic and use Nikkor AF lenses if possible, in addition to my manual Nikkor lenses that are AI or AI'd.
 
How would you compare the 35-70/2.8 AF with the 35-70/2.8 AF D?
Is the "D" better?

Optically they are the same lens. Nikon added D circuitry to better communicate subject-to-camera-distance information to the camera, where it is used to help determine ambient and flash exposure. I think that is about it. Though with some lenses when the D upgrade was made by Nikon the opportunity was also taken to make other tweaks too. Either optical tweaks in a few cases (eg. working wholly from memory I think the 28mm f2.8 got an optical upgrade as the optics needed it) or as noted in other posts, mechanical ones (e.g AF gearing ratio for the 70-210mm AF 4- 5.6.). I do not believe either improvement was regarded as necessary with the 35-70mm f2.8 insofar as I know. People sometimes tend to prefer D lenses when buying, I guess because they are the newer of the two models but this is not usually a major issue though it may mean a slightly higher price .

BTW Raid the D700 also works fine with later G lenses which do not have their own aperture ring and are also focused electronically by silent wave motor rather than by mechanical drive (these are very quiet and quick to focus). A good G lens to buy (and cheap) if you should go down this path sometime in the future, is the Nikkor 50mm f1.8 G which is about half the price of the equivalent f1.4 G and very good indeed. But it has to be said that the earlier equivalents are excellent too - these improvements in actual performance are all incremental in nature even though new technology is being used to achieve it. https://www.thephoblographer.com/2012/08/06/review-nikon-50mm-f1-8-g/
 
I'm not sure which is more surprising - that raid has bought a DSLR, or that such an avid photographer as raid, who has owned all manner of cameras, has never bought a DSLR until now!
 
Can't say anything about the 85 1.8 but the 85 1.4D is a fantastic lens.

Is it an adapter to use Leica R on Nikon or a replacement mount? There is only 0.5mm difference in flange length between the two, an adapter probably wouldn't allow infinity focus. There are lens mount replacements available though.

http://www.leitax.com/leica-lens-for-nikon-cameras.html

Shawn

I replaced the Leica R lens mounts with Leitax. The Minolta I had to basically re-manufacture the mount. Never was able to achieve infinity. Closest focus to ~20ft before the mirror hit the rear of the lens.
 
Beware the infamous bloom on the 35-70/2.8

I've had one before. Nice glass. It's a push/pull design and as such tends to collect internal dust. I prefer the primes.
 
Beware the infamous bloom on the 35-70/2.8

I've had one before. Nice glass. It's a push/pull design and as such tends to collect internal dust. I prefer the primes.

You are speaking on something that was on my mind yesterday as I checked out many such zooms for sale. Unless you pay $400+ the offered zooms have internal dust or/and haze or/and fog and/or fungus.
 
I replaced the Leica R lens mounts with Leitax. The Minolta I had to basically re-manufacture the mount. Never was able to achieve infinity. Closest focus to ~20ft before the mirror hit the rear of the lens.

Would there be such a problem with the R Summicron on a D700 too?
 
I'm not sure which is more surprising - that raid has bought a DSLR, or that such an avid photographer as raid, who has owned all manner of cameras, has never bought a DSLR until now!

I have been very much opposed to using AF lenses that felt as if they are made out of plastic. I was also opposed to the digital RF until I gave up on scanning negatives from film cameras. In the end, we want to post online some images. I am still using film cameras. Today, I had with me in the camera bag a M8 with Hexanon 50/2.4 for a 66mm lens that is extremely sharp, plus a 35m 1.4 Lux on the M9 and then a 16mm Hologon on the M3. This is all I need. The whole idea of using RF cameras was/is to go with smaller lenses and to enjoy RF focusing, and this is why I set aside my film SLR cameras. Why should a DSLR tempt me? I was just curious about it, so I bought a used and older model DSLR.
 
You are speaking on something that was on my mind yesterday as I checked out many such zooms for sale. Unless you pay $400+ the offered zooms have internal dust or/and haze or/and fog and/or fungus.

And/or separation. The other two lenses of the three dragons...same deal and they are more expensive than the middle dragon.

A 35, 50, & 85 set of afd primes are less money, faster, and better results.

I would say your safest and best bet for now professor is to use what you have that is compatible and see where it lands for you. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
 
Hi Peter,
All I need is the green light in the viewer to tell me the focus is OK, or I can estimate the distance anyways. My eyesight is still excellent (somehow!) and I do not have any issues with focusing. I stopped using any flashes once I switched to RF cameras, and now I don't like using any flash anymore. I view images taken with a flash as "artificial" and not naturally lit. I prefer photos taken in open shade. I live in Florida after all. We have over 300 sunny days per year.

The 35-70/2.8 tempts me as a travel lens. Else, I favor prime lenses. Opting for a Nikon camera has opened up a world of lens options, but this is also confusing!

Raid

Optically they are the same lens. Nikon added D circuitry to better communicate subject-to-camera-distance information to the camera, where it is used to help determine ambient and flash exposure. I think that is about it. Though with some lenses when the D upgrade was made by Nikon the opportunity was also taken to make other tweaks too. Either optical tweaks in a few cases (eg. working wholly from memory I think the 28mm f2.8 got an optical upgrade as the optics needed it) or as noted in other posts, mechanical ones (e.g AF gearing ratio for the 70-210mm AF 4- 5.6.). I do not believe either improvement was regarded as necessary with the 35-70mm f2.8 insofar as I know. People sometimes tend to prefer D lenses when buying, I guess because they are the newer of the two models but this is not usually a major issue though it may mean a slightly higher price .

BTW Raid the D700 also works fine with later G lenses which do not have their own aperture ring and are also focused electronically by silent wave motor rather than by mechanical drive (these are very quiet and quick to focus). A good G lens to buy (and cheap) if you should go down this path sometime in the future, is the Nikkor 50mm f1.8 G which is about half the price of the equivalent f1.4 G and very good indeed. But it has to be said that the earlier equivalents are excellent too - these improvements in actual performance are all incremental in nature even though new technology is being used to achieve it. https://www.thephoblographer.com/2012/08/06/review-nikon-50mm-f1-8-g/
 
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