I broke my FE2

[KenRothman]

So, was visiting beautiful Newport, Rhode Island today, eating some sorbet (don't judge me) and i dropped my FE2. It landed on the hot shoe, cracking the plastic, bending the metal a bit, and knocking out the focusing shield. I popped it back in, but now the mirror return isn't working.

Now, I paid $100 for it a few years ago as a beater body for my collection of Nikkors.

I'm not going to fix it.

So - need to buy another body for my Nikkors. (35 2.8, 50 1.4, 50 1.8E, 105 2.5, 200 4). They're all AI or AI modified, and they all have the non-AI flange except fot the one series E lens.

What should I get?

The FE2 really has been ideal, in terms of quality, size, and features. But I never like to get the same thing twice 🙂 The option to get something different is inticing. So - what to get?

I'm also shooting an M6 classic with a 35/50/90 combo, and an EP1 with the kit zoom and the Panny 20mm.

So I mostly use the Nikon stuff when I need the flexibility of the lens kit (mostly the telephotos), and the ruggedness... in situations where i don't want to hurt the Leica.

F3HP seems like a great first choice. pro-level. tons of them out there. HP good for my glasses. I don't use flash, so not worried about the wacky and annoying flash system. 1/2000 top speed good enough for me.

FM2 is attractive, like the FE2... sorta like the idea of getting rid of the Auto mode, so i have to think more - like on the M6. And easier to find probably, since they made them for so long.

But then part of me is attracted to an old F or F2... but not sure. To get one with a (working) meter requires those huge photomic finders... look cool certainly, but a bit bulky, no? I do also like the idea of the basic pentaprism finder w/o a meter, but I'm not sure if I'm man enough to go meterless. Nor do i want to carry a meter.

I'm a big available light, handheld, low-tech shooter. I like to grab the moment, and do not do too much prep or setup. If i miss the shot, it wasn't meant to be.

Not too interested in Nikkormats, I grew up with an FTn.

Also not too interested in FG/FA or other 80's models. I have an EM already... but it's out of commission.

So, what do to? Do I get another FE2? An F3? F2AS?

(side question - whats the diff between an F2A and F2AS?)

thx.

 

[dogberryjr]

F3HP. I think it's the best deal going out there for F bodies.

 

[ruby.monkey]

If you like the idea of an FM2, you'll love an FM3A; otherwise, it's hard to beat an F3HP for handling and viewfinder quality (even though it *is* an 80s model).

 

[ZeissFan]

If you like the smaller size of the FE2, get another FE2 or an FE or possibly an FM3A. The FE should be inexpensive. Not sure about the FM3A.

In any case, all of these are "dime a dozen," so to speak. None of them are rare, and they're all readily available on eBay.

 

[KenRothman]

really leaning towards an F3HP.

seeing a wide range of prices... what should I expect to pay for one? Does anyone want to sell me one?

As for FM3a... not willing to pay the premium it costs over an FE2, for example.

 

[StevenJohn]

The F3 has a LCD speed indicator that can blank out, so check it carefully. I've owned and like both, but give a slight edge to my FE2 for it's match needle and lighter weight. I think the +/- on the F3 was harder to see, except in low light (the F3 has a light for the LCD). The F3 controls felt nicer though, and winding it was really smooth.

 

[KenRothman]

i figure, if i don't like the F3... i should be able to get back whatever I put into it. I can always get another FE variation, like's been said.

 

[muser53]

Have owned a F3HP for at least 25 years. It has been to the deserts (Death Valley, Mojave, Sonora) the mountains of Nepal and pretty much everywhere in between. So for what its worh it comes with my recommendation. Of course my backup SLR has been an FM2 which saved me in Nepal when all of my spare batteries gave up the ghost in the high mountains.

 

[muser53]

Oops forgot to mention there are two FM2s in the classified section (don't have any connection with the seller) that look good.

PJ

 

[Nikon Bob]

If you liked the size/weight of the FE2 then an FM2 would serve well. Nothing wrong with the F3hp but it is bigger and heavier. I would not consider the FM3a as it is too pricey for what it is IMHO.

Bob

 

[Rob-F]

Owner and user of two FE2 bodies weighing in. I've dropped one of mine and bent the lens mounting flange. And I broke the film advance somehow on the other. I had them both fixed, good as new.

What to get if you don't want another FE2? I'll recommend the FA, from personal experience. It's a smooth and quiet camera. It probably has the lowest mirror slap of any Nikon except (possibly) my F100. They are pretty close. And you get the AMP multi-pattern metering with AIs lenses.

I had an F3, but didn't like the hard mirror slap and vibration, so traded it for my F100. Yes they are built very solid and sturdy, and that can be important. But the FA has the small size and ergonomic feel of the FE2, making for a very easy transition. And the MD-15 motor for the FA is far better than the MD-12 for the FE2.

So I'll recommend the FA for your consideration.

 

[KenRothman]

I thought that there were some electrical gremlins with the FA... no?

And actually, a bit concerned with the availablity of Program mode. If it's there, i'll probably use it.

 

[Rob-F]

I thought that there were some electrical gremlins with the FA... no?

And actually, a bit concerned with the availablity of Program mode. If it's there, i'll probably use it.

Dunno about electrical problems. Mine works.

Not sure what you mean by availability. You mean, is there a program mode? Yes, there is. I can set the lens to the smallest f-stop, flip the switch to "P" and fire away! I don't use that much, as i like to pick the aperture myself; but I use "A" a lot.

 

[KenRothman]

right - i mean - i know its there... and i don't want to be lazy and use it!

 

[Vilk]

Fear not the F2 and its manly size--I carry one regularly in my Domke vest pocket, with both metered and meterless heads.

F2A and F2AS differ only in the meter: the A has a needle, the AS has LEDs. AS can theoretically meter lower light levels, but I have never fallen off the scale on A either. Having used both daily for many years, I can confirm they both work equally well (as in, "I couldn't care less which one I'm carrying"). The needle version gives you a handy option of an external meter with a readout on top of the head so it may have an edge for inconspicuous presetting (it's also possible on the LED head, but it's a more convoluted operation there).

The electromechanical coupling of both meters may be showing its age these days, so before buying try to verify that the needle doesn't jump around as you turn the aperture ring. More often than not it's dirty contacts, but it also may mean the contacts wore out or corroded.

I don't own an exposure meter--eyeballing light is no rocket science.

 

[Field]

The electric shutters in the Nikons FE/FE2/etc have proven themselves with their existence of non-stop work since the day they were sold. Manual on FM/FM2/etc sounds nice but the truth is the electrics have accurate shutters where as the manuals are not entirely accurate on speed. *Edit

The FA is awesome. http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/fa.htm

I like my FE a lot as well. The FE2 is great but drains batteries a bit faster.

I prefer having auto, or at least I like the needle telling me what it thinks I should be shooting at, not just if I am fast or slow.

With the F/2's I would prefer a standard prism. *Edit, ok there is a standard prism for F2's that is nearly impossible to acquire. They cost a fortune for either camera, but at least one is available regularly.

Nikkormats are better than anyone gives them credit for... They are similar to having an F with a standard prism and a meter. They are tough.

F3HP's flash mount is the one thing I think it stupid about them, Nikkormats, FE's, and FA's do not have the issue.

Personally I want an F4 due to the advanced mirror and shutter stability and vertical release. They are wicked cheap these days, like the price of an F3HP. They are ugly though.

 

[Vilk]

I don't really care what particular camera Ken gets, but I would still like to flag statements which do not correspond to my experience.

The electric shutters in the Nikons have proven themselves with their existence of non-stop work since the day they were sold. [...] The FA is awesome.

I know it's only anecdotal evidence, but two FAs died in my hands, right on the job, within one year around mid-nineties. Both with a failed shutter.

...the manuals are not entirely accurate on speed.

I took my three F2 bodies for their first Nikon service tune-up on their 30th birthday. The tech put them on the bench and gave them back to me--the shutters were well within factory spec at all speeds (I saw the printout).

With the F's I would prefer a standard prism due to weight, and the F2 with its high price does not offer this.

Patience moves mountains... and gets DE-1s for $100 (it got me two, in fact). Now the DP-12 is an entirely different story for some obscure reason...

Ken, best of luck in your quest!

😎

 

[Mablo]

I've had FM2n and a FE2 and I still have a FM. They are all the same after all, just some very minor technical details apart. I'd spend a $50 more and get a nice F100 body. F100 can take most Nikon MF lenses and is a lot better camera than the older FM/FE generation.

 

[Field]

Vilk I am sorry to hear of your bad experience with some electric Nikons! For myself and others they often seem to just keep going. I have read many people saying no problems, ever.

I edited my post to clarify that the electronic shutters vs. manual is between the FE and FM series, not the F series so much; factory specs may not be perfect though, just to say. The truth is that the small variances mean little... I am just anal.

The cheapest DE-1 on the internet is $180 (BGN condition). On Ebay the only camera with one is $1300. Good luck.

 

[Vilk]

yes! 😀


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