I feel I need an M7

[JohanV]

Today , Easter sunday.
My youngest is in granddad's garden looking for his easter eggs, and I am happiliy snapping away with the the M2 and M3, using the Voigtlander meter.
Turns out I make the same mistake as always, turning the dial on the meter and of course forgetting to adjust the dial on the camera itself. :bang:
Call me stupid, but there is so much to adjust that all the really good shots were lost durig the time I was fiddling with the dials. 😡
Will an M7 save me? 😕
My mind has already been made up, so maybe you guys can save me... :angel:

 

[Ken Ford]

I can see how an M7 would be useful under those conditions. However, would you be able to switch back and forth?

 

[Gid]

Maybe you should have used the G2 or the D70 - more suited to this style of shooting. However, if an M7 will make you happy, then get it.

If you don't want to spend so much money, then consider the Hexar RF - has aperture priority AE, up to 1/4000 and a motor drive. Its built at least as well as the M6 (actually feels a little heavier) and takes M lenses (don't believe all the rubbish) - around 600 euros or less for body only.

BUT if only an M7 will make you happy then just do it - I know how it feels when you have your heart set on something.

 

[back alley]

perhaps a zeiss ikon...

 

[pbjbike]

Shoot more and the adjustments will become second nature 🙂. Negative fim will give you more latitiude--within 1-2 stops accuracy is close enough for decent prints. Take one reading before you begin on an average spot, then stop down 2 stops if the children step into the sunlight or open up a stop or two if the children step into the shadows. Don't let the meter control you. M7's are just for lazy folks who shoot chromes, and the SS dial moves the wrong way 😉.

 

[sf]

An M7 WILL make you happy. That's a scientific fact. Whether it would be more useful that the G2 or D70 in those situations, or more effective, it a personal thing.

I think the M7 is divine - though I've only ever held one.

 

[szekiat]

i got a Hexar RF and never looked back. Till today, given a choice of one camera its still the one i'll pick up. sorry M2, lots of great moments with u but u just don't cut it!

 

[SDK]

An M7 + Motor M + 35mm lens sounds like it would work well for you. They are great, in auto or manual mode, and an M7 can do TTL flash too. I love my two M7s (one 0.58x, one 0.72x).

 

[Andrew Touchon]

Today , Easter sunday.
My youngest is in granddad's garden looking for his easter eggs, and I am happiliy snapping away with the the M2 and M3, using the Voigtlander meter.
Turns out I make the same mistake as always, turning the dial on the meter and of course forgetting to adjust the dial on the camera itself. :bang:
Call me stupid, but there is so much to adjust that all the really good shots were lost durig the time I was fiddling with the dials. 😡
Will an M7 save me? 😕
My mind has already been made up, so maybe you guys can save me... :angel:

You have a serious case of GAS. Enjoy your new M7. 😉

 

[celluloidprop]

If you've got the money, why not go for it? If you're on a budget, though, I'd look for a used R2A or R3A - perfectly workable AE and if you're shooting action no one's going to notice the louder shutter.

 

[ddutchison]

Well, you can never have too many Leica M's 😉

I'd suggest that a hand-held incident meter might be even faster. Why? Because Incident meters measure how much light is illuminating the subject, as opposed to how much light is reflecting off of them (a-la your VC meter, as well as the meter in the M7).

Most people find that approach more intuitive, and most can learn to remember light levels fairly accurately (reflectance levels are trickier). This means that most people can learn to guess exposures if they try, and that's faster that any meter. Just stick to one speed of film for a while, and consistently guess your exposures before consulting the meter. I think you'll find your guesses get accurate pretty quickly.

If they don't, then but the M7, and you'll still have an incident meter.

 

[egpj]

I'll give that advice an AMEN on Easter. I only reference the light meter in MP when I am shooting in very low light and I cannot get into a good position to meter the light falling on the subject. The meter in the M7 will only be center and even then you will only get things to medium grey. Handheld meters are the way to go for me but you must find your own path my friend. :angel:

Well, you can never have too many Leica M's 😉

I'd suggest that a hand-held incident meter might be even faster. Why? Because Incident meters measure how much light is illuminating the subject, as opposed to how much light is reflecting off of them (a-la your VC meter, as well as the meter in the M7).

Most people find that approach more intuitive, and most can learn to remember light levels fairly accurately (reflectance levels are trickier). This means that most people can learn to guess exposures if they try, and that's faster that any meter. Just stick to one speed of film for a while, and consistently guess your exposures before consulting the meter. I think you'll find your guesses get accurate pretty quickly.

If they don't, then but the M7, and you'll still have an incident meter.

 

[dnk512]

I agree with Andrwe T... The mind works in funny ways sometimes... ;-)

 

[dreamsandart]

Handheld meters are a great way to work. Unless the light is changing quickly it can also be very fast and freeing as you set things up and just shoot. And you are very 'connected' with your photography working 'manually'.

But having just picked up an M7 after many moons of non-metered Leicas and M6/M5, the M7 gives a whole other side to the freeing up on exposure thought. All my reservations; battery, blinking lights, 'neon' display, shutter release feel, built quality... have been put behind. I still am aware of the shutter/aperture settings as I shoot, and can use it manually with the meter via M6/MP, but on AE this camera is a nice combination of traditional M with an added very useful feature. I'm impressed more than I thought I could be.

If you can swing it, go for it, I think you would be happy with the choice.

Best,

 

[peter_n]

Get the M7 Johan, trust me. You'll never regret it.

 

[wlewisiii]

Get an M7, but also it sounds to me like you really need to google this word: hyperfocal. It and a good meter to know how to tweak the shutter speed dial is really one of the best ways to use these cameras. See here: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21834 for an example of how I manage to keep up with a hyperactive 4 year old and a superduper hyperactive 14 year old using that technique... :bang: :bang: :bang: OTOH a 40mm FOV is one heck of a help!

😀

William

 

[Ken Ford]

I've been an unmetered body guy for years - I always relied on a handheld. My main film SLR shooting bodies for the last 20+ years have been a pair of unmetered Nikon F2s.

A few months ago I was lured into buying a few pieces of Olympus OM kit (which led to me getting back into Leica M, but that's another story). One of the two bodies is an OM2n. I have to admit I thoroughly enjoy using the little beast in aperture priority auto! It makes for a very fast, responsive street shooter.

I can really see the appeal of an M7.

 

[Gary Sandhu]

I had an M7. Sold it and got an M3. Keep the M2 and M3, dismount the Voitlander meter and use it handheld, or use a coupled leica meter.

 

[BudGreen]

Another vote for the M7 here. I bought one recently for the same reason. The hyperfocal suggestion above is also a good one. When trying to keep up with my 6 & 7 year-old sons, I typically use a 35mm lens set at the hyperfocal distance in aperture priority mode. With this arrangement I rarely miss a shot due to exposure or focus.

 

[JohanV]

Wow, a short night's sleep, and so many answers, such fine advice.
I know about the hyperfocal thing, but I just don't like the look of pictures that have a big DOF. That's mainly why I got the summiluxes (35 & 75) A bit wasteful to use them at f16 methinks... 😉
I'll let you know if and when the M7 arrives.
These GAS attacks can be a pain the wallet, I know... 😉

Just to show you what I mean; this was taken at f1.4 with the 35 'lux and M6