I got a Petri 7s last night...

[Sniper X]

Ebay seller SAID it was working but when I got it, the shtter would only fire when you wound it on with the film advance lever. Every once in a while, like once out of 40 advances, it would wind on correctly then allow the shutter to be tripped by the shutter release. I wans't happy, but I did only pay 20 shipped so calmed down and got to work.....well got to work this morning on it. I thought I'd look at the mechanical working and decide if I could find the problem and fix it. I did and I um....did! I fixed the problem...well problems. It turned out to be one or more of three things. First the mech wasn't catching when you wound it on, the transfer bar was moving almost all the way into battery and popping back allowing the shutter to trip when it returned after release of the film advance.

Second, the X M sync switch was stuck partway between X and M on the lens. So I fixed that and CLA'd the entire mech works. I also noticed the meter wasnt working. I found that to be a SIMPLE EASY fix! The hot wire, the insulated one for the selenium cells round the lens was grounding out on the case. Pulled it back to the right spot and put a touch of glue on it to hold it fast....meter now works, and checked with my trusty Minolta hand held meter, and my app on my phone, it's accurate.

So whilst in there....I decided to completely clean the view finder, and range finder system. All lenses and mirrors. GLAD I did because now when I look thru the finder, it is SO BRIGHT and clear! Before I though it was fine but after a complete cleaning, it is astoundingly superior to what it was.

I disassembled the lens as well, removed the lens plate and cleaned everything and removed the front elements of the lens and cleaned it as well. Als cleaned the SEL cell lens as well whilst in there.
Then I noticed the sad state of the leatherette, hardened and brittle. So off with it and since I still had a sheet of synthetic blue leatherette, I turned it blue. When I get some Mahogany or black I may redo it.

Now the camera is totally functional, and working ina manner almost as it was new it seems! I'll film test next week...since I am now film testing four other cameras I just fixed / CLA'd I just got last week.

 

[charjohncarter]

That is much more than I would dare. I have a 7s I bought because years ago I bought a 7 new. It was a good camera but I traded it and a little cash for a IIIc. I'm not so sure that was a good move. My 7s was like yours from EBAY but it has worked beautifully from the start. I don't use it much, but like the lens. I usually point the camera down 10-15 degrees for the meter. I has an earth shaking motion and noise when cocking the shutter but is very quiet on releasing the shutter. The build is so much better than the later (68-74) point and shoots. Here is one shot from mine:

out the window of my car:

Kodak Gold 100 by John Carter, on Flickr

 

[Sniper X]

That is much more than I would dare. I have a 7s I bought because years ago I bought a 7 new. It was a good camera but I traded it and a little cash for a IIIc. I'm not so sure that was a good move. My 7s was like yours from EBAY but it has worked beautifully from the start. I don't use it much, but like the lens. I usually point the camera down 10-15 degrees for the meter. I has an earth shaking motion and noise when cocking the shutter but is very quiet on releasing the shutter. The build is so much better than the later (68-74) point and shoots. Here is one shot from mine:

out the window of my car:
Kodak Gold 100 by John Carter, on Flickr

What speed film was that? Looks like 800 or faster. Focus and such look great but it looks like very fast film due to what LOOKS like high grain structure?

 

[charjohncarter]

ISO 100, but cheap development so maybe old chemicals. Lens is really sharp:

Kodak Gold 100 by John Carter, on Flickr

 

[Sniper X]

Good to know!

 

[tunalegs]

I had a 7s, also must comment that the lens is very sharp. Mine worked well, for years, until I accidentally dropped it. I still remember the meter read out on top as being handy for checking the light when walking around, before taking the camera to your eye.

 

[dmr]

Now the camera is totally functional, and working ina manner almost as it was new it seems!

Congratulations on your successful Fix The Camera session! 🙂

I've never personally shot with a 7s, but when I was young and just getting into serious photography, some of the others I knew bought them and were very happy with them. I considered it, but ended up buying a used Mamiya rangefinder instead.

 

[charjohncarter]

Pertri was a strange brand, they didn't seem to have a long run in this country. But their lenses and build quality were above average. That top (as well as in viewfinder) meter is something that I still like when I use mine.

 

[Sniper X]

Petri is indeed weird to put it best. I DO love the meter being on both the top and thru the VF. And the hype about the VF brightness is well deserved. I will say the build quality as fas as durability is questionable when compared to say my Minolts Hi Matics. I feel that if I even dropped my 7s from a foot above a table on to the top of the table I'd either be fixing it again or just putting it up to look at. The lens is nice and sharp. But I find I shoot a lot more with my Hi Matic 9, when an all manual FLR is the feel of the day.

 

[Sniper X]

One thing I have noticed is the focus patch is off on the vertical enough to bug me. Sooo, I may remove the top plate again and see if I can find the adjustment for the calibration on that. The horizontal is spot on after a focus distance test but that thing about the vertical being off BUGS the heck out of me for some reason. Maybe because Im so anal about stuff like that.

 

[BobW1]

My first rangefinder repair

My first rangefinder repair

Purchased a Petrie 7S on eBay which looks great esthetically. Light meter seems to work fine but unfortunately not the shutter. While I never attempted a camera repair before and I made it a point to purchase one on eBay whose seller accepts returns, I figured I would see if I could figure out how to do it myself.

Not sure if the issue is the shutter or perhaps the film advance. The lever won't move, perhaps because the shutter had not "clicked". When I set the timer and press the shutter button, the timer does work. When it gets to bottom, however , shutter does not open/close.

So I am hoping to clean the shutter blades and hopefully the shutter will work. I removed the top and bottom metal pieces and the 4 screws that appear to hold the lens. But now I am in a quandry as to what to do next.

Any advice? Thanks!