i have an m6; should i get an ikon?

I had a bunch of Leica's but didn't buy a Ikon, I brought a Nikon S3 and they work
really well. I was surprised it may have it's quirks but it's a great picture taker.

Range
 
The accuracy which is inferred from the AE shutter speeds is almost entirely spurious when related to the negative produced. You need a pretty good densitometer to split 1/12th of a stop.
 
I owned Zi, M7 and M6. They are are all wonderful cameras.
I found AE faster and useful, particularly when you use AE lock (faster yet as reliable than manual metering). I use the M6 now, simply because it is the most robust, easiest to fix, and because it is not my primary camera anymore (I prefer the Fuji GF670 to all of the above), so I downgraded from the M7.

For me ZI and M6 would be too redundant. The ZI is more modern, faster in use, but a little less robust and louder (not that an M6 is silent).

Why not consider a Contax G2? Fast, very robust and stellar optics. I miss mine, and may go back to it.
 
thanks for great added value responses

thanks for great added value responses

so, i think i may stay with the m6. i want to learn better how to use it, and i fear having AE will prevent that.

i largely shoot street shots, traveling around various light situations and subjects. i use a leica 28mm f.28 ASPH elmarit lens on my m6.

does this change any theses regarding what i shoot and what might be best for me?

thanks
 
I have an Ikon, should I get an M6 or M7?

I have an Ikon, should I get an M6 or M7?

Well, for me it's the opposite: I have an Ikon, should I get an M6 or M7? :confused:

I do not use my Ikon too often because in bright light it is difficult to see the shutter speed in the viewfinder. And while the viewfinder is bright like almost no other, I cannot focus unless my eye is centered very well (the patch just fades away) - my Leica M2 works much better for me in this regard.

So the + and - of the Ikon for me:
+ don't need an accessory finder down to 25mm lens
+ large base length of rangefinder
+ 1/2000
+ metal shutter
+ AE
- focusing takes longer cause I have to find correct eye position first
- exposure time in finder hard to see in bright light

While the AE works very well also for slide film, the ideal use of the Ikon for me is this:
Manual exposure (I can read the shutter speed on top of the camera) with the Snapshot Skopar (not rangefinder coupled, so no need to focus in the viewfinder)
 
For street photography I set my shutter speed at 1/125. For portraits I set my aperture for f4 or f5.6. Lighting, film stock, and subject matter dictates shutter speed & aperture. Personally, I would rather tell the camera what to do than have it guide me.
 
After a bit of use alignment of my eye with the rangefinder patch has become automatic for me, though everyone has a different tolerance for it.

Shutter speed fading out in the viewfinder can be a problem. Fortunately for me it is a rare occurrence that happens only in bright light so I just use sunny 16. If I am working with slides I move to AE and use exposure lock when needed.

To be totally honest, the biggest problem I have with the ZI, that I have never been able to get comfortable with, is the AE lock in the top middle of the back of the camera.

Though nothing is perfect, neither cameras or myself, the ZI has hit all the buttons that are important to me. Really, the only outstanding concern I have is the long time maintenance of this camera. I am relatively confident, based on past history with Leica, that I will still be able to have my Leica repaired 20 years from now. Since the ZI has not been around that long I guess we will have to wait and see.
 
For this lens in particular, I find, that the Bessa R4A could be your tool, but rather than getting rid of your M6, see, if you can save some money, and get one, maybe even second hand. These are quite robust cameras,the 28 frame is ideal size (and single) the rf horizontal misalignment, if it occurs, can be fairly easily fixed on a DIY basis. I use mine with the extra grip and wrist strap - it becomes a very nice little tool that will give you very high quality photos at a modest cost.

Bessa R4A+28mm


2008020104 by mfogiel, on Flickr
 
I got myself a second M body just to be able to have b&w and color at the same time. Bessa R2a does the job and has AE.
 
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