steveclem
Well-known
The Nokton 50mm 1.5 is a stirling lens, that and a 21mm f4 would make a good start.
kxl
Social Documentary
The lens I used the most with my R-D1s was the CV 35/1.2
mszargar
Established
The Jupiter 12 is a good intermediate solution if you think you can save for the Zeiss C Biogon (which is what I am doing). They are cheap, but rather reliable. You won't print 40*30, but they resolve enough for 8*10, and have that special Zeiss signature. The problem is finding a good copy. Now, this is no place to post classifieds, but I have a Jupiter 12 in good shape that I don't use anymore (got the Nokton 35 1.4 as well). If you are interested, PM me.
sleepyhead
Well-known
+1 on the 28mm M-Rokkor. It's turning out to be a great lens for 1.5x crop-factor digital cameras.
Jamieson
Member
Thanks for all the advice, i have been looking around and have found the following within my price range :-
Voigtlander 35mm F1.4 MC Noktor
Voigtlander 35mm F1.7 Asph Ultron
Voigtlander 28mm F2 Ultron
Does any body have any comparive experience with these lenses ?
Thanks
Jamieson
Voigtlander 35mm F1.4 MC Noktor
Voigtlander 35mm F1.7 Asph Ultron
Voigtlander 28mm F2 Ultron
Does any body have any comparive experience with these lenses ?
Thanks
Jamieson
kuvvy
Well-known
I loved the 28 Ultron. Made a mistake in selling it to try out a 35mm which just didnt suit me. Cant really comment on the others, sorry.
One of my favourite shot with the 28
One of my favourite shot with the 28
mszargar
Established
Jamieson,
I have the Nokton 1.4 (35). Build-wise, it is the nicest little lens you have ever seen. Feels really good in the hand. It is sharp from 2.8 on. Below 2.8 it is ideal for softer portrait work. Renders colors rather cold as compared to my C Sonnar that in my experience is neutral. But no complaints about any of these. Getting to my complaints now: very noticeable barrel distortion, and some focus shift. The focus shift, again, you get used to it and compensate for it, specially on a 35. The barrel distortion is unnerving even though you can hypothetically fix it in photoshop. I have noticed that the distortion is not a perfect Gaussian distortion, so photoshop does not account for it accurately. In comparison my Jupiter 12 has less distortion! Nokton has some light falloff in the corners as well (vignette) but I find it cute. I'd say the same level as Jupiter 12, but less harsh. I can send you good test shots if you want. Hope this helps.
I have the Nokton 1.4 (35). Build-wise, it is the nicest little lens you have ever seen. Feels really good in the hand. It is sharp from 2.8 on. Below 2.8 it is ideal for softer portrait work. Renders colors rather cold as compared to my C Sonnar that in my experience is neutral. But no complaints about any of these. Getting to my complaints now: very noticeable barrel distortion, and some focus shift. The focus shift, again, you get used to it and compensate for it, specially on a 35. The barrel distortion is unnerving even though you can hypothetically fix it in photoshop. I have noticed that the distortion is not a perfect Gaussian distortion, so photoshop does not account for it accurately. In comparison my Jupiter 12 has less distortion! Nokton has some light falloff in the corners as well (vignette) but I find it cute. I'd say the same level as Jupiter 12, but less harsh. I can send you good test shots if you want. Hope this helps.
f16sunshine
Moderator
Jamieson
Member
Many thanks for all the help & advise on the lens front.. I had a look at the 40mm and did a few tests at home with my SLR and came to the conclusion it was just a but to long for every day use.
I did have the good fortune to find myself a 35mm Voigtlander F1.7 Ultron for less than £200, so ive gone with that for starters...
I do think that i would like a 50mm to go with it..
Any idea how the Jupiter 3 & 8 compare with the Canon 50mm F1.4 ?
Thanks Jamie
I did have the good fortune to find myself a 35mm Voigtlander F1.7 Ultron for less than £200, so ive gone with that for starters...
I do think that i would like a 50mm to go with it..
Any idea how the Jupiter 3 & 8 compare with the Canon 50mm F1.4 ?
Thanks Jamie
paradoxbox
Well-known
someone posted up some photos taken with the canon, nikon and jupiter-3 and nobody was able to tell the difference very well, but the jupiter-3 seemed to hold the most people's favor.
you might also try out something cheap like an industar-69. it's a 28mm f2.8 half frame lens. it's a scale focused lens on the r-d1 and also requires modification, and vignettes at times, but it IS a fantastic little lens. i think i bought mine for around $45 with glass in absolutely pristine condition. my favorite point about it is you can remove the close focus screw and use it on a rangefinder to focus as close as a few centimeters if you want to.
you might also try out something cheap like an industar-69. it's a 28mm f2.8 half frame lens. it's a scale focused lens on the r-d1 and also requires modification, and vignettes at times, but it IS a fantastic little lens. i think i bought mine for around $45 with glass in absolutely pristine condition. my favorite point about it is you can remove the close focus screw and use it on a rangefinder to focus as close as a few centimeters if you want to.
Attachments
mszargar
Established
Jupiter 8 is the best 50-buck lens you can ever buy!
Jupiter 3 is really as good as people say. As far as my tests are concerned, Jupiter 8 resolves less than 3, but still a great lens with great color and bokeh rendering.
If you buy any of these two, get the coated version. Some of the coated versions are marked with a red "Pi", but some newer ones are not. ("Pi" is the russian equivalent to Zeiss's "T*"). The uncoated versions are very difficult to shoot with due to flare (even with the hood).
Canon should not be in the same price range, but I am sure the performance is comparable.
Jupiter 3 is really as good as people say. As far as my tests are concerned, Jupiter 8 resolves less than 3, but still a great lens with great color and bokeh rendering.
If you buy any of these two, get the coated version. Some of the coated versions are marked with a red "Pi", but some newer ones are not. ("Pi" is the russian equivalent to Zeiss's "T*"). The uncoated versions are very difficult to shoot with due to flare (even with the hood).
Canon should not be in the same price range, but I am sure the performance is comparable.
Johnmcd
Well-known
I pretty much used the vc 40/1.4 mc exclusively. Fits the 35 frames well. Great combo.
Whatever you use you will love this camera! 800 iso is the sweet spot for low light.
Some images with vc 40/1.4
Cheers - John
Whatever you use you will love this camera! 800 iso is the sweet spot for low light.
Some images with vc 40/1.4
Cheers - John
paradoxbox
Well-known
Here's another shot from the $45 industar 69
Jamieson
Member
Im leaning towards a Jupiter 8, and have found one 1973 version for a good price.. But ive read that you need to shim them to get them to work properly on M-mount cameras. Has anybody here done this ? Is it required for the R-D1 ?
Thanks
Jamie
Thanks
Jamie
paradoxbox
Well-known
I shimmed both of my J-3's. It is extremely easy once you figure out how to actually twist open the lens - you need to be holding the correct parts of the lens.
beware that once you shim the lens, the aperture marks will no longer line up with the top of the lens - you'll need to either drill holes into the metal to re-align it, or you'll need to just live with the aperture being at the side or bottom of the lens.
beware that once you shim the lens, the aperture marks will no longer line up with the top of the lens - you'll need to either drill holes into the metal to re-align it, or you'll need to just live with the aperture being at the side or bottom of the lens.
--
Well-known
I have just bought myself an R-D1X in excellent condition... i can wait to receive it...
Jamieson
Congrats Jamieson. You have now entered the world of utter photo joy
With the current rage about the DXOmark and the Leica Ms you can also enjoy that the DXOmark test was (to my knowledge) never made on the R-D1 and probably never will. So you can just judge the output as you see it and leave the anxiety at home
Seriously this is the only camera I put in the bank vault (after I sold my Xpan) when going on holiday. It just feels irreplaceable.
Voigtländer is a good alternative - I swear by the 35mm f:2.5 but you will find many different opinions here. Old lenses made for the CL/CLE are also viable on the Epson.
My old hobby horse (or is it lasagne these days) is promoting the Epson software PhotoRAW. It provides sublime output with very little work. And the interface is very much like the camera itself. Simple and effective.
I know you will enjoy it, so let me just wish you good light :angel:
Cheers,
Xpanded
mszargar
Established
In my experience Jupiter 8s don't need shimming. Apparently at 50mm, f/2 provides enough tolerance for the lens to focus accurately on both russian and M-mount bodies. I have never shimmed my J-8s, and I have never missed focus because of that. J-3s are another story.
This is taken with a J-8 at f/2.8 on a Zorki 4:
The exact same lens (the exact same copy) at the same aperture on Leica M6, no shimming:
(Also the same subject, the same photographer and the same scanner!)
Anyway, as it was said before shimming is very easy to do (if needed). I suggest you test your lens first and if you are not satisfied with the focus, try to change the shimming. Opening a russian lens for shimming (not for CLA) is no hassle at all. You can cut your own shims out of better-quality aluminium foil or copper tape, if you need thin separators. The thicker shims are a little bit harder to obtain, but you won't need that.
This is taken with a J-8 at f/2.8 on a Zorki 4:
The exact same lens (the exact same copy) at the same aperture on Leica M6, no shimming:
(Also the same subject, the same photographer and the same scanner!)
Anyway, as it was said before shimming is very easy to do (if needed). I suggest you test your lens first and if you are not satisfied with the focus, try to change the shimming. Opening a russian lens for shimming (not for CLA) is no hassle at all. You can cut your own shims out of better-quality aluminium foil or copper tape, if you need thin separators. The thicker shims are a little bit harder to obtain, but you won't need that.
Expatinprogress
Well-known
Don't tell me about it. I know what you mean
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91453
By the way John, I clearly remember your Monkey series. They were awesome!! So sharp and clean. They almost convinced me to buy the 40mm but I already had the 35mm. It is a pity you sold that camera.
Cheers
aldobonnard
Well-known
I dedicate the VC 15/4.5, the Canon P28/2.8 and the Summarit 50/1.5 to the R-D1 for black and white photos. Best details in the shadows and highlights.
Jamieson
Member
I've just been told that my new R-D1x camera is currently being held by UK customs and that it will be there for between 3-5 days... :bang: