Peter_S
Peter_S
- Local time
- 12:12 PM
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2010
- Messages
- 860
Contax T - if that is within the budget. No manual metering, though.
How about the Petri Color 35?
This model doesn't have a rangefinder but it does have a terrific scale focus system.
Distance set is read out directly in viewfinder by a needle along a scale.
This model has match needle manual exposure control only using built-in CdS meter.
Like most cameras of its time it was designed for a mercury cell.
Today a common 675 hearing aid battery can be used.
Here's Stephen's page describing this little beauty:
https://www.cameraquest.com/petri35.htm
Chris
What about something that is not disposable, like most fixed lens cameras? Along the lines of Stephen's suggestion of a dead meter CL or CLE, you could get a Nikon S2 with a 5cm f/1.4. A combination that could be used daily and easily outlive you. One more option to seriously consider.
Phil Forrest
Hi,
Have you considered any of the following:
* The Cosina made Vivitar 35ES - or any of its re-badged variants (shutter priority, IIRC)
Cheers
Barry
OP, looks like there might be some RF options for you in the classifieds:
https://rangefinderforum.com/photopost-classifieds/showproduct.php?product=56056
Vivitar 35ES — black paint, excellent condition, one tiny ding on the corner, otherwise beautiful finish, meter works, seals good, includes front cap and half case. Clean glass and viewfinder, good RF patch. Won't find a nicer working one…$100
+1 on the Oly XA. Very nice lens in a camera that slips into a jeans pocket. Aperture priority metering is very accurate. And the shutter is nearly silent.
The QL17 GIII, is perfect and has super quiet mechanical shutter, with a good meter, especially when converted for silver cell batteries, with the correct diode.
49 mm filters, a meter that allows for auto exposure, both a hot shoe and of port, and most importantly, the excellent f1.7 lens.
The meter 'eye' is under what ever filter you decide to use, so readings are good, if you decide not to use an external meter or sunny 16 chart.
Japanese built cameras are more expensive in many cases, but the Taiwan camera is every bit as good a camera you could want, and you'll likely never notice any difference, I have both builds and use them as interchangeable picture makers.
I'll also mention I have the Minolta 9, as well, with another great f1.7 lens and it's a pleasure to use, though larger and heavier than the little Canon QL17s.
Keep in mind the Minolta 9 is an upgrade of the Minolta 7s, which cost more because of demand from folks that don't realize this fact and want a popular camera.
IMO.
A lot of folks are recommending good cameras, but which aren't compact. For example, a Konica Auto S2 or Minolta Hi-Matic 9 are not compact.Looking for a compact budget fixed lens rangefinder to complement my SLR.
I guess it depends on what "too expensive" is. You can get a nice Canon in thread mount for $250 and lenses range from great Canon lenses (middle of the road) to great-but-collectible and expensive Leitz lenses to cheap soviet optics that can be surprisingly good for under $50. No metering though, which probably rules those out. The metered Canons aren't compact any more.Interchangeable seems like it would be too expensive. Just a "carry everywhere" type camera.
I have a 35 RC; it's wonderful. As the other poster said, manual metering is accomplished by using the auto mode, taking note of the camera's recommendation, then switching to Manual and setting your exposure. This is not a super-efficient process, but remember that since you have shutter priority automation, you'd only need to use that method in tricky lighting situations. The lens is great, the build quality is great.Looking for manual exposure possibilities with metering.
Something like an Olympus 35 RC might not fit the bill. From what I understand the meter only really works in "auto" mode and it's clumsy in manual.
Good luck finding one in working shape. Quality was said to be lower than the big Japanese brands.I'm thinking about a Petri 7s. It seems like it has a kind of "shutter priority" exposure system which allows you to calibrate the settings to your liking a little bit more easily.
This is interesting. The 60s cameras were more solidly-built than 70s cameras, it is just a matter of finding one that has been serviced or at least used regularly for the past 20 years. On the other hand, fixed lens rangefinders in the 60s were not compact, so that's a moot point.I'd like to avoid cameras older than the '70s or so. I haven't had good luck with shutter operation for older cameras and want something that will "probably work" with minimal fiddling, I'm getting tired of trying to repair my own stuff.
I wish the glorious Ricoh GR1, Nikon 35Ti / 28Ti, Contax T2 / T3, etc. were still repairable by at least a few technicians in each continent.. or went for prices that reflect their low reliability. But the prices they go for nowadays, the fact that their days are counted and that any failure can turn them into paperweight, made me stop using these cameras 2 - 3 years ago. Now, when I need a motorized compact, I choose one of the few that at least are still decently priced (Olympus Mju) or even rather cheap (Konica Big Mini) yet delivering the same quality as the premium compact cameras, if one can live without manual mode.
Lastly, don't rule out scale-focused cameras! A Rollei 35 is a fantastic little camera, and scale focusing isn't as hard as you think, most of the time. I find myself often set to f/8 or f/11 and focus set to hyperfocal, shutter speed between 1/60 and 1/500. The Rollei 35, 35 T, 35 B and 35 S all meter at waist level and are focused at waist level, so when it is brought up to the eye, it is just framing and clicking the shutter. It's a really good street photography camera, when used in this way.