steve garza
Well-known
I want to learn how to use highspeed films in low light situations w/ my G2. I shot a roll of Neopan 1600 at a nightclub as a test. I was told by the clerk at Freestyle to "expose for the highlights" since the film is designed to pick up detail in the blacks. Since my mind is like a sieve, I rated at 1600 and developed normally. So I blow the highlights as shown in the attached shots. Now, I have ideas on how to achieve better highlights, but need to know if my assumptions are correct.
1. Pull the film to 800--develop accordingly
2. Metering technique---meter on a well lit area near the subject--hit exposure lock-then compose and shoot (I'm not real confident about this).
Bear in mind I'm not developing my own film. It's getting to the point where I'll have to start though.
All comments/suggestions are greatly appreciated.
1. Pull the film to 800--develop accordingly
2. Metering technique---meter on a well lit area near the subject--hit exposure lock-then compose and shoot (I'm not real confident about this).
Bear in mind I'm not developing my own film. It's getting to the point where I'll have to start though.
All comments/suggestions are greatly appreciated.
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Well, you say that we need to bear in mind that you aren't developing your own film, but I really gotta say that especially with higher speed films like NP1600, you really need to process youself.
Your issue is highlight contrast. That is controlled by development. So what you really need to do is develop less. So, if you had exactly the same conditions and you shot those exact same shots, you could develop less and it would work out. You could also just ask your lab to develop for maybe 15% less time, and that would help quite a bit.
Shooting at 800 will have an effect on the shadow detail. That's it. However, if you need to be shooting at 1600, then you're giving up most of your hope on shadow detail anwyay.
If you do need more shadow detail on 1600, then consider Delta 3200 or TMZ.
allan
Your issue is highlight contrast. That is controlled by development. So what you really need to do is develop less. So, if you had exactly the same conditions and you shot those exact same shots, you could develop less and it would work out. You could also just ask your lab to develop for maybe 15% less time, and that would help quite a bit.
Shooting at 800 will have an effect on the shadow detail. That's it. However, if you need to be shooting at 1600, then you're giving up most of your hope on shadow detail anwyay.
If you do need more shadow detail on 1600, then consider Delta 3200 or TMZ.
allan
steve garza
Well-known
Thanks Al
Thanks Al
Less development is the answer I'm getting from others online as well. Thanks for your advice.
Thanks Al
Less development is the answer I'm getting from others online as well. Thanks for your advice.
jaap
Jaap
You should expose for the shadows and develop on the hihglights. So you should measure the shadows. If the contrast is to high then decrease development time (-30%) if contrast is to low increase devolpment times +30%. As a starting point rate the neopan 1600 on 800 for good shadow detail. Tmax 3200 as 1600 or less is a good staring point. The neagtives should be printable on grade 2.
Fine tuning can be done with multigrade filters. Good luck !
Fine tuning can be done with multigrade filters. Good luck !