martin s
Well-known
I just got this thing:
I want to spot meter, but I don't understand what an "ideal enlargement" is supposed to be.
From the manual:
If there's anyone who owns one of those, I'd appreciate a hint. It seems kind of overkill using it only as a stop watch..
martin
I want to spot meter, but I don't understand what an "ideal enlargement" is supposed to be.
From the manual:
If there's anyone who owns one of those, I'd appreciate a hint. It seems kind of overkill using it only as a stop watch..
martin
BigSteveG
Well-known
I have the UK biult enlarging timer and find it useful in not having to make up so many test prints. It does far more, but limited time and brain power preclude me from using the thing to its fullest extent.
"Ideal" enlargement is your perogative. Although, I probably wouldn't enlarge a 35mm neg to 20/24....someone else might if he wanted to use grain to emphasize some aspect of the image.
"Ideal" enlargement is your perogative. Although, I probably wouldn't enlarge a 35mm neg to 20/24....someone else might if he wanted to use grain to emphasize some aspect of the image.
martin s
Well-known
Prerogative? Would you mind explaining me how to create this ideal enlargement, step by step? Or maybe a link? How many test prints do you create on average?
martin
martin
philipp.leser
Established
This sounds similar to how my Lunasix + lab attachment works: You have to make an "ideal" enlargement of a negative using test strips.
Now, you measure the intensity in the shadows and turn the wheel until the time that you used to make your known-good enlargement appears.
At this point there is an established relationship between light intensity and time that produces a good print, which the meter can use to give you the right time for any intensity.
After that you can take any negative and make a measurement in the shadows to get the right time.
Of course, this only works if you measure the right zone each time, which might take a little practice. You'll also still have to worry about using the right paper grade.
Now, you measure the intensity in the shadows and turn the wheel until the time that you used to make your known-good enlargement appears.
At this point there is an established relationship between light intensity and time that produces a good print, which the meter can use to give you the right time for any intensity.
After that you can take any negative and make a measurement in the shadows to get the right time.
Of course, this only works if you measure the right zone each time, which might take a little practice. You'll also still have to worry about using the right paper grade.
martin s
Well-known
Thanks a lot Philipp, makes things a lot clearer! Regarding paper grade, does the calibration only apply to one filter grade? I use Ilford Multigrade.
martin
martin
philipp.leser
Established
Well, changing the paper grade affects mainly the dark parts of the print, so the best way would be to pin the exposure time by judging the light areas of the print and then changing the grade until you like the shadows.
As your meter's instructions suggest measuring a part of the negative that will appear dark in the print, I assume the actual printed value of that part might change when changing the grade. Also, measuring just one point won't tell you if the contrast ranges of your negative and of your paper match. So you'll still have to make test strips.
As your meter's instructions suggest measuring a part of the negative that will appear dark in the print, I assume the actual printed value of that part might change when changing the grade. Also, measuring just one point won't tell you if the contrast ranges of your negative and of your paper match. So you'll still have to make test strips.
40oz
...
I'm guessing what it's trying to do is give you a starting point for a print time. It would seem to me that if you use multigrade paper and contrast filters, you'd be set. The paper is always the same, so the light falling on it always results in the same tone after the same exposure time.
Basically, you make a good print. Then you meter the light hitting the paper in the detailed shadows. Your next negative will use the same exposure to get the same kind of shadows, and by using the timer's metering, the timer can figure the amount of time that will take given whatever filter you are using.
You still need to make a test print or two to figure out which filter you want, but you won't need to spend as much time figuring out how much exposure. You taught it what kind of shadows you like, so the timer can tell you how to reproduce those again on another frame.
I would expect it to work the same with graded paper, but IDK, IANAE
Basically, you make a good print. Then you meter the light hitting the paper in the detailed shadows. Your next negative will use the same exposure to get the same kind of shadows, and by using the timer's metering, the timer can figure the amount of time that will take given whatever filter you are using.
You still need to make a test print or two to figure out which filter you want, but you won't need to spend as much time figuring out how much exposure. You taught it what kind of shadows you like, so the timer can tell you how to reproduce those again on another frame.
I would expect it to work the same with graded paper, but IDK, IANAE
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
If this is any like the EM10 enlarging meter you have to set your exposure time for the highlights, and from there your contrast form the shadows.
One thing to be aware with MG paper is that some grades (3.5 - 6) result in very slow exposures.
One thing to be aware with MG paper is that some grades (3.5 - 6) result in very slow exposures.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
I use a UK made timer/analyzer - can't remember the name, but the logo is a black cat! It will do paper grade and timing down to split seconds. It was quite pricey when i bought it 8-9 years ago, but has probably paid for itself over time. I can usually get a 90-95% "hit" rate when printing, thus no test prints needed.
Only problem was that the instructions were written by the guy who builds it! I still haven't figured out some some of the features. like the multiple channels for paper etc. Never allow the designer/builder to write instructions on a product - either too detailed or not enough.
Only problem was that the instructions were written by the guy who builds it! I still haven't figured out some some of the features. like the multiple channels for paper etc. Never allow the designer/builder to write instructions on a product - either too detailed or not enough.
