kknox
kknox
I have B&W Arista 400 film, if I shoot it at 1600 or 800 do I process at 1600 or 800 film times. Sorry but I have never shot film or developed at any other speed than recomended like on the Freestyle chart. I also shoot Nepan 1600 and develop it at the 1600 times. Thank's in advance.
Papercut
Well-known
Yes, you should process it at the times for the EI (Exposure Index) you shot it at. I don't know which developer you use, but Arista Premium 400 (Tri-X) does VERY well pushed to 1600 and developed in Rodinal: 1+99, agitation for first 30 seconds, then let stand for two hours (no agitation at all ... and the time doesn't have to be precise: two hours, two hours and fifteen minutes, anything around there will be fine). Finish processing as normal. The grain won't be small (that's Rodinal and Tri-X for you), but there's wonderful detail in the shadows.
Some examples, from my flickr stream:
Some examples, from my flickr stream:
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mich8261
Well-known
Benjamin
Registered Snoozer
Hi K.Knox,
If you have exposed your film at ISO 1600 then you should develop it as such. Otherwise you will end up with negs that have been under exposed by two stops. You see, that you are developing to compensate for the under exposure.
Here's a link to the Massive Development Chart that you should give you the correct times for your film and given developer.
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=&Developer=&mdc=Search
Hope this helps!
Benjamin
If you have exposed your film at ISO 1600 then you should develop it as such. Otherwise you will end up with negs that have been under exposed by two stops. You see, that you are developing to compensate for the under exposure.
Here's a link to the Massive Development Chart that you should give you the correct times for your film and given developer.
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=&Developer=&mdc=Search
Hope this helps!
Benjamin
kknox
kknox
I do the 400 with a t-max developer @ about 11-12 min. The Neopan in the same is like 4.5 min. Do I just process the Arista 400 when pushed using the same t-max developer @ 4.5min like the Neopan.
__hh
Well-known
The "rule of thumb" that has worked for me is to increase dev time by 20% for each stop pushed... therefore, 1.44 times (1.2 * 1.2) the recommended time @ ASA 400 might be a good start.
*Adjust to taste*
*Adjust to taste*
Benjamin
Registered Snoozer
No!
The Neopan 1600 is a faster film out of the box (i.e, has a more sensitive emulsion/or whatever..) as it were, and thus requires less development at the same speed..
For example, with Ilford Delta Pro there are 100, 400, and 3200 versions of the film.
The Delta 3200 will require less development for a given exposure than the 400 version.
You need to over develop to compensate for the under exposure!
Benjamin
The Neopan 1600 is a faster film out of the box (i.e, has a more sensitive emulsion/or whatever..) as it were, and thus requires less development at the same speed..
For example, with Ilford Delta Pro there are 100, 400, and 3200 versions of the film.
The Delta 3200 will require less development for a given exposure than the 400 version.
You need to over develop to compensate for the under exposure!
Benjamin
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Papercut
Well-known
I second Benjamin's recommendation: go to the massive development chart, put in the film you used and the developer you use, and then develop for the time it gives FOR THE ISO YOU SHOT THE FILM AT. It sounds like you're mixing up films and speeds ... you can't use the developing time for one film on another film just because you shot them at the same ISO rating!
S
Socke
Guest
One caveat with highly diluted Rodinal, you need at least 5ml of Rodinal. Agfa recommends 10ml but most of us had good results with less than that.
My tank takes 450ml and I mix 5ml Rodinal with enough water to make 450ml solution and develop in a semi-stand process.
First 30 second constant agitation, 10 minutes every minute 3 agitations and let it stand for the rest.
Grain is fine with 135 APX-100 at E.I. 80 developed as stated above for 17 minutes. I woudn't try pushing an ISO 400 film two stops with Rodinal.
For pushing Tri-X I'd use D-76, ID-11 or ATM49.
My tank takes 450ml and I mix 5ml Rodinal with enough water to make 450ml solution and develop in a semi-stand process.
First 30 second constant agitation, 10 minutes every minute 3 agitations and let it stand for the rest.
Grain is fine with 135 APX-100 at E.I. 80 developed as stated above for 17 minutes. I woudn't try pushing an ISO 400 film two stops with Rodinal.
For pushing Tri-X I'd use D-76, ID-11 or ATM49.
Tim Gray
Well-known
Depends on the film and the developer. If this is Arista Premium 400, which everyone says is Tri-X, and you are using XTOL 1:1, I'd use the times out of the XTOL and Tri-X pdfs. I only mention that combination because I've shot Tri-X at 1600 and developed in XTOL 1:1 using the published times and was happy with the results. Different films and developers might act differently...
Mephiloco
Well-known
I routinely push Tri-X to 1600 or even 3200. I have 2 rolls pushed to 3200 drying right now. These past 2 I developed in T-Max Developer (had a bottle, deciding to use it, kinda like it I guess). Massive Dev chart said like 13 minutes at 24C, I developed them for about 11 minute at 80F (my tap water temp/temp of all my chemicals). I went by the massive dev figure, compensated for the temp difference, and then added a minute 30 (roughly) as when I pushed to 1600 yesterday with TMax I got some really good frames, but it could've gone another minute in the developer.
Mephiloco
Well-known
I think I might even have some scans of tri-x at 6400, which I thought looked better than Neopan rated the same, and a little better than Delta@6400.
I personally HATE Neopan 1600, but I think it might be because the place I bought it locally might've gotten back stock. Every roll I've ever shot of Neopan 1600, regardless of speed it was shot at, turned out terrible. I don't think I've been able to salvage more than 2 frames in 5+ rolls, so I just threw away the other rolls I had and stick to Tri-X for about everything, with the exception of HIE and Efke 25 (which I love)
I personally HATE Neopan 1600, but I think it might be because the place I bought it locally might've gotten back stock. Every roll I've ever shot of Neopan 1600, regardless of speed it was shot at, turned out terrible. I don't think I've been able to salvage more than 2 frames in 5+ rolls, so I just threw away the other rolls I had and stick to Tri-X for about everything, with the exception of HIE and Efke 25 (which I love)