If it takes me years...

Phil_F_NM

Phil_F_NM

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...I'm going to engineer a way to stick the 43mm Mamiya 7 lens onto the Mamiya 6.
I want a wider lens in the square format and I don't want to buy an SWC just for that purpose. Yes, I want an SWC but that is another discussion. Please keep the "buy an SWC" or "buy a 40mm Distagon and a Hasselblad" or "buy anything..." comments in another thread.
So here's the thing:
The lens registration of a Mamiya 6 is 56.4mm. I just measured mine.
The lens registration of a Mamiya 7 is ~59-60mm. I can't seem to find anyone who wants to put a micrometer in there and publish an accurate measurement. From what I can find, the registration is between 59 and 60mm. Leaving at least 2.5mm to work with.
The throat diameter of both systems is the same so there lies a little bit of difficulty. The electronic controller connections can all be measured and the proper paths made with ribbon cable. 2mm thickness of hard brass stock will easily hold the lens in question. The intermediate focusing cam follower can be a small spring loaded sleeve which slides easily under the lens cam.
This is an adapter whose time came a decade ago but no one bothered to make it happen.

Phil Forrest
 
Contact SK Grimes. They design and fabricate all kinds of adapters, lens mounts and such for large format. They can advise you on the best route. I can say with certainty it won't be cheap.
 
If you have years to make this happen- learn machining. Philadelphia should have a 'maker space' of some sort where you can get access to training and tools. Manual machines will do what you need, no need to use CNC. Within 6 months you'll know enough to start drawing. Then you can make your own. Actually, it probably won't take years; you can learn to make one in under a year. Look at one of the table top lathes like the Unimat DB200 even. Be sure to invest in a some quality measurement devices and learn how to use them.

You can do it. Be the change you want to see 🙂
 
Good luck in reaching your goal.

In my experience, the 50mm lens for the Mamiya 6 is a spectacular lens so can only imagine that the 43mm Mamiya 7 lens is equally good, if not better.

With your talent, you will accomplish the goal sooner rather than later!
 
^ That's definately the easiest way to go . A removable gate would allow the best of both worlds ( maybe minus having it fold up with the lens on ?) Peter
 
Leaving aside the fact that a dwell meter is what one uses to set the contact points in an automobile distributor, and that the focal length difference between the 50mm lens for the Mayima 6 and the 43mm lens is minimal at best , the easiest thing to do is simply shoot the 43mm lens on a Mamiya 7 body and crop to 6x6.
 
Marty Forscher was the man to do this job but unfortunately he's no longer with us. Honestly I can't think of another person With the same level of skill.
 
sepiareverb said:
I suspect Adam at SKGrimes can do it, but at quite a price.
Click to expand...

I suggested Grimes. They're great but quite expensive. Although consider the equipment needed to do this and the expertise needed. If the job isn't done perfect the value of the equipment being modified will fall through the floor.

I e never seen a 7 or 6 in person so it's hard to guess alternatives to modifying a body and lens. Does the 7 have interchangeable backs? I would think it would be easier to modify a back or if not interchangeable change the gears in the transport for 12/6x6 frames and build a 6x6 aperture plate. This seems like a more simple approach.
 
I would think that's easier than dealing with the optics and electronics. What he's going to wind up with in the end is a dedicated body for that lens and no other lens will work. If he grafts the lens he'll have to deal with the RF calibration too. It would be a very easy way to destroy a 6 and lens.
 
SK Grimes can do some work...but ..they ruined a lens I gave them...gave them a NOS Nikon process lens to put in shutter..and got back a beat up scratched lens with an amateur paint job on the metal to try to hide their incompetence..and a note sayin..sorry about that..we fked up..and couldn't finish the job...
Basically..the new guys..weren't as good as the old man...after they took over the shop..
He could have done the job in a heart beat..but the new guys..well...
 
I'm not sure who's doing this kind of work now. Century / Schneider in California does really specialized adaptation of cine lenses but that's all they do.
 
If you are really committed to this, the best thing to do would be to get a lens flange from a broken M6 lens then build a spacer replacing the flange on the M7 lens. I wouldn't bother with an adapter since I doubt there in enough space there. The machining shouldn't be all that hard since you just need a sleeve/spacer of the appropriate thickness, but getting the electronics to jive might be difficult.

Good luck.
 
If you've only got 3mm to work with and the bayonets are the same diameter, it might not be possible to make an adapter. Maybe a new mount for the 43mm would be a better bet. But what do I know.

oh yeah, and learn machining. It's another great hobby to sink infinite amounts of money into.

good luck, and keep at 'er.
 
I know a little about machining. Most of the metal work I've done is hand fitting. Not making lamp bases or things like that. I've had to do a lot of hand cutting of threads, profiling cogs, stuff like that which you'd need to rebuild ancient internal geared bike hubs. I've also made quite a few Frankenkameras, tore down my M4 with a pocket knife and channel locks for necessary repair, et al.
The idea of replacing the lens flange is actually the best one. Since the throat diameter is the same between cameras it leaves little metal for the flange tabs. Almost like a set of stairs, so not the strongest.
The biggest hurdle would be relocating the controller contact pins but with a replacement flange this would be easier than in an adapter.
So, anyone have any M7 parts lenses? 😉

Phil Forrest
 
Theoretically you may have much more clearance for an adapter because of the collapsible lens mount on the M6. Of course you would have to disable the interlocks between the bellows and the rest of the camera. But it's still another angle to explore.
 
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