Godfrey
somewhat colored
That is awesomely tough-looking - I like it!
But why are there so many gear selections only on the rear wheel and none on the main... main... pedal gear thingy (not a technical term!).
Isn't there usually like 3 in front and 7 at the rear, or some sorts? Why the difference? This variation is interesting from a mechanical standpoint.
The "crank and front chain ring" is what I think you're looking for.
The current trend in mountain and fat bikes is to simplify shifting with 1-by-X gear train setups to step up or down through the gears in a linear fashion, rather than have to juggle front and rear sprocket selections on 2-by-X or 3-by-X setups. This is enabled by modern derailleur and chain technologies, with extremely precise chain positioning and very high tensile strength chains. Overall, it saves a little weight (shifter, front derailleur and multiple chain ring not needed) at the expense of a little chain life, and makes slamming shifts up and down linearly for rapidly changing terrain faster.
My build uses a 32T front chain ring with an 11-sprocket cassette in the rear, running 11-46T. This matches up well with my primary road and secondary trail/dirt road riding needs, based on the 26x4.00 inch tires I run. I have the chain line tuned to the 1-5 gear range (counting from tallest to shorter gearing) as I'm usually on the road in gear 1-2-3 for long distances, and use the shorter gears when I go off road or have to climb steep sections. The lowest gear gives me about 2.5 mph at 70 rpm cadence, the top gear limits me to about 28 mph at 110 rpm cadence (something I can achieve only for 20 seconds at a time before my heart wants to burst!). I'm normally cruising at about 14 mph and 85 cadence in gear 2 on level ground.
The whole bike takes advantage of a lot of carbon to keep weight down. Minus the lock, saddlebag/tools, pump, and water bottle, it comes in at 27lb 14oz (12.6 Kg) ready to ride. Lock, air pump, saddlebag plus tools, and water add about six and a half pounds (3 Kg) to it, but it's better than having it in a backpack on my back..
I ride this machine nearly every day, usually for 15-20 miles on average. Love it likely as much as (or more than) the Hasselblad... LOL!
G
taemo
eat sleep shoot
The "crank and front chain ring" is what I think you're looking for.
The current trend in mountain and fat bikes is to simplify shifting with 1-by-X gear train setups to step up or down through the gears in a linear fashion, rather than have to juggle front and rear sprocket selections on 2-by-X or 3-by-X setups. This is enabled by modern derailleur and chain technologies, with extremely precise chain positioning and very high tensile strength chains. Overall, it saves a little weight (shifter, front derailleur and multiple chain ring not needed) at the expense of a little chain life, and makes slamming shifts up and down linearly for rapidly changing terrain faster.
My build uses a 32T front chain ring with an 11-sprocket cassette in the rear, running 11-46T. This matches up well with my primary road and secondary trail/dirt road riding needs, based on the 26x4.00 inch tires I run. I have the chain line tuned to the 1-5 gear range (counting from tallest to shorter gearing) as I'm usually on the road in gear 1-2-3 for long distances, and use the shorter gears when I go off road or have to climb steep sections. The lowest gear gives me about 2.5 mph at 70 rpm cadence, the top gear limits me to about 28 mph at 110 rpm cadence (something I can achieve only for 20 seconds at a time before my heart wants to burst!). I'm normally cruising at about 14 mph and 85 cadence in gear 2 on level ground.
The whole bike takes advantage of a lot of carbon to keep weight down. Minus the lock, saddlebag/tools, pump, and water bottle, it comes in at 27lb 14oz (12.6 Kg) ready to ride. Lock, air pump, saddlebag plus tools, and water add about six and a half pounds (3 Kg) to it, but it's better than having it in a backpack on my back..
I ride this machine nearly every day, usually for 15-20 miles on average. Love it likely as much as (or more than) the Hasselblad... LOL!
G
this, it makes it easier to maintain and makes the bike lighter.
I have converted my hybrid to a 1x10 and I can do decent speed compared to my road bike that has a 2x11 groupset.
my beater MTB had a 2x10 setup and in the winter, the front derailleur was all covered in ice and couldn't change gears anymore. swapped it with a single chainring and felt more comfortable in the winter.

FrozenInTime
Well-known
A Leica M is a bit like a Moulton : something a bit eccentric and comes in special editions for collectors.
A Ricoh GR is a bit like a Brompton : ideal for darting around the city.
A X100V is for the hipsters on their single speeds.
Anything with a flippy screen is for the social media influencers on their hourly rental Boris/Velib bikes.
A Ricoh GR is a bit like a Brompton : ideal for darting around the city.
A X100V is for the hipsters on their single speeds.
Anything with a flippy screen is for the social media influencers on their hourly rental Boris/Velib bikes.
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
...
I ride this machine nearly every day, usually for 15-20 miles on average. Love it likely as much as (or more than) the Hasselblad... LOL!
G
Thank you for the detailed explanation. The technology of bicycles is fascinating.
I'm not sure which camera equivalent that is, though!
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