JonEdangerousli
Newbie
I have a Zeiss Ikoflex TLR that needs help. It was an eBay purchase a few years ago and recently I shot the first roll of film with it. The processing went ok other than the images are overlapping. The negative has a few images that appear to be exposed about correctly, and then a space of about a foot and a half that didn't expose at all, and then a few frames that are totally overexposed. Does this sound like something that can be fixed? Thanks in advance, J.
burninfilm
Well-known
Sounds like the typical results for an older Zeiss TLR that has gone 50+ years without being serviced. Not to state the obvious, but you should really read a manual for an Ikoflex TLR if you haven't already. There are some not-so-obvious quirks that can affect the camera's function.
Also, it would be really helpful if you could state which model of Ikoflex you have. Zeiss made a bewildering array of different Ikoflex models, from the primitive but unique Ikoflex "coffee can" model to the top-of-the-line Ikoflex III.
Zeiss Ikoflex TLRs are made very well, and if in overall good condition, a CLA can most likely bring the camera back into specification.
Also, it would be really helpful if you could state which model of Ikoflex you have. Zeiss made a bewildering array of different Ikoflex models, from the primitive but unique Ikoflex "coffee can" model to the top-of-the-line Ikoflex III.
Zeiss Ikoflex TLRs are made very well, and if in overall good condition, a CLA can most likely bring the camera back into specification.
JonEdangerousli
Newbie
I downloaded a manual for an Ikoflex Ia and it appears to be that model. The camera has no model number anywhere I can find, just a serial number on the base "733358".
JonEdangerousli
Newbie
burninfilm
Well-known
It certainly does appear to be an Ikoflex Ia. I believe this model had a Prontor shutter, or something similar. They are fairly good shutters, even if a little limited. However, they do tend to stick or have other problems when they've gone so long without a cleaning/lubing.
I'd suggest having the camera serviced, or if you like to tinker, try to disassemble and service the camera yourself. I've personally never disassembled an Ikoflex Ia, so I can't make any suggestions there. I had an Ikoflex Ia with a Tessar lens before, and I know it had a sticky shutter on the slow speeds. I'd imagine that the film advance mechanism on yours needs to be cleaned and relubed as well, as the old grease can cause frame spacing errors. Remember, these cameras were designed to be serviced every once in a while as they are entirely mechanical devices. Odds are that it sat for several decades without being used.
I'd suggest having the camera serviced, or if you like to tinker, try to disassemble and service the camera yourself. I've personally never disassembled an Ikoflex Ia, so I can't make any suggestions there. I had an Ikoflex Ia with a Tessar lens before, and I know it had a sticky shutter on the slow speeds. I'd imagine that the film advance mechanism on yours needs to be cleaned and relubed as well, as the old grease can cause frame spacing errors. Remember, these cameras were designed to be serviced every once in a while as they are entirely mechanical devices. Odds are that it sat for several decades without being used.
JonEdangerousli
Newbie
I emailed Mark Hama and got back an estimate of $165 to service it. He said he could get it back in a couple of weeks so maybe I'll bite the bullet and have it done. My wife is an "enthusiastic amateur" and shoots Nikon. She's "encouraging" me to use her backup camera (D50) if I'm going to get into photography.
There's just something about old stuff that resonates with me. I bought this camera after a discussion of film vs. digital on a straight razor forum I used to be addicted to.
Thanks for the help!
matt_s
Established
That's a great camera!
That's a great camera!
That camera is one of my favorites- it is built like a tank, but still small and light enough to carry around comfortably.
These cameras are fairly easy to work on, but Mark Hama does some great work and is reasonaby fast (at least for people in the camera repair business). He recently worked on an old Yashica of mine and it came back like new- it even smelled new.
I have run into frame spacing issues with mine as well, apparently this model has almost zero blank space between frames- so loading the film correctly is critical. I think the older 120 film had a thicker backing, making the takeup spool thicker- thus spinning it up at a different rate. Anyway, just load it carefully and you will be fine.
Sorry I have no pictures I took with this camera uploaded at this time.
Enjoy,
Matt
That's a great camera!
That camera is one of my favorites- it is built like a tank, but still small and light enough to carry around comfortably.
These cameras are fairly easy to work on, but Mark Hama does some great work and is reasonaby fast (at least for people in the camera repair business). He recently worked on an old Yashica of mine and it came back like new- it even smelled new.
I have run into frame spacing issues with mine as well, apparently this model has almost zero blank space between frames- so loading the film correctly is critical. I think the older 120 film had a thicker backing, making the takeup spool thicker- thus spinning it up at a different rate. Anyway, just load it carefully and you will be fine.
Sorry I have no pictures I took with this camera uploaded at this time.
Enjoy,
Matt
ZeissFan
Veteran
The Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex cameras are good cameras but never reached the ease of use of a Rolleiflex. The Ikoflex is unusual in that many of the models were very different in design and operation -- even successive models.
The postwar models are a bit more traditional in design and operation -- somewhat closer to the Rolleicord. Some are a royal pain to service. Others are simpler, and that includes the Ia.
I think $165 is on the high side, although not unreasonable, as you can do most of the work without having to pull the shutter. With the Ikoflex, you often have to clean and relubricate the focusing mechanism, and then you have to recollimate, which is simple.
You have to remove the front panel, which is held on by a retaining ring on the taking lens, as I recall.
For the most part, Zeiss Ikon only marked cameras with its model name but didn't add the version. For example, the Contax is simply marked Contax and not I, II, IIa, etc. Same goes for the Contina, Ikonta, Super Nettel, Ikoflex ... well, all of its cameras, as far as I know.
The postwar models are a bit more traditional in design and operation -- somewhat closer to the Rolleicord. Some are a royal pain to service. Others are simpler, and that includes the Ia.
I think $165 is on the high side, although not unreasonable, as you can do most of the work without having to pull the shutter. With the Ikoflex, you often have to clean and relubricate the focusing mechanism, and then you have to recollimate, which is simple.
You have to remove the front panel, which is held on by a retaining ring on the taking lens, as I recall.
For the most part, Zeiss Ikon only marked cameras with its model name but didn't add the version. For example, the Contax is simply marked Contax and not I, II, IIa, etc. Same goes for the Contina, Ikonta, Super Nettel, Ikoflex ... well, all of its cameras, as far as I know.
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JonEdangerousli
Newbie
At the risk of hijacking my own thread - I've looked for a conversion chart for the exposure chart on the hood to account for modern film with no success. Any suggestions as to where I might look?
ZeissFan
Veteran
That's a postwar camera, so it should be reasonably accurate.
I've never used those, because by the time you figure out the exposure data on the chart, you're on a pension. I compare it to the older Weston meter dials. Love the meters, but way too many numbers. And as your eyes age, these become very difficult to view!
I just use a handheld meter (my daily meter is the Ikophot T).
I've never used those, because by the time you figure out the exposure data on the chart, you're on a pension. I compare it to the older Weston meter dials. Love the meters, but way too many numbers. And as your eyes age, these become very difficult to view!
I just use a handheld meter (my daily meter is the Ikophot T).
JonEdangerousli
Newbie
I understand. At 47 I'm already up to 1.50 readers, LOL. Here's my antique meter (still learning to use it):
Attachments
FallisPhoto
Veteran
The frames are overlapping because they used film with a thicker substrate when that camera was made. Thinner film winds tighter and the frames overlap. This should stop happening after the first 3-4 shots. The other problems sound like you have a sticky shutter that needs to be cleaned. Those are problems that are usually caused by the shutter blades sticking together (usually because of old oil having strayed onto the shutter blades). Ordinarily I'd jump in here and offer to do it myself for less than most other repairmen but I have not done an Ikoflex before and, looking at photos of the camera, I don't see an obvious way of getting into the shutter.
Gabriele Gaspardis
Member
Hello to everyone.
I restart this thread because I need to access an Ikoflex IIa (late) shutter for maintenance, but I find a problem in camera disassembly.
As other cameras, to fully access the shutter, it needs to remove the front cover. I easily unscrewed the taking lens, then I tried to remove the viewing lens as well, but without success. Unscrewing of it falls into a complete rotation with a click at the end, but lens remain on its place. I thought that removing the three screws on the cover and the synchro also lens would came out, but it is not so.
Has anyone experience in this camera disassassembly? What are the correct steps to do?
Thank you very much, Gabriele.
I restart this thread because I need to access an Ikoflex IIa (late) shutter for maintenance, but I find a problem in camera disassembly.
As other cameras, to fully access the shutter, it needs to remove the front cover. I easily unscrewed the taking lens, then I tried to remove the viewing lens as well, but without success. Unscrewing of it falls into a complete rotation with a click at the end, but lens remain on its place. I thought that removing the three screws on the cover and the synchro also lens would came out, but it is not so.
Has anyone experience in this camera disassassembly? What are the correct steps to do?
Thank you very much, Gabriele.