fishtek
Don
Xmas
Veteran
Only if you use a M8...
Seriously dont you tell the scammer it is B&W?
Noel
Seriously dont you tell the scammer it is B&W?
Noel
fishtek
Don
Re: purple cast...
Re: purple cast...
Not scanner, the negative strips themselves have a purple tinge. I don't know the characteristics of this particular film, and I'm aware that there are expected differences on the base material. Maybe Ilford's SUPPOSED to be purple????
If not, How do I adjust? HC-110, 1:7 stock, 6 minutes, Arista fixer as instructions, etc...
Regards!
Don
Re: purple cast...
Not scanner, the negative strips themselves have a purple tinge. I don't know the characteristics of this particular film, and I'm aware that there are expected differences on the base material. Maybe Ilford's SUPPOSED to be purple????
If not, How do I adjust? HC-110, 1:7 stock, 6 minutes, Arista fixer as instructions, etc...
Regards!
Don
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Ah, the tinge is from the AH layer and, more importantly, the sensitizing dyes which is used across all the new emulsions. The base is almost perfectly clear if washed properly.
As compare to TMAX films, which are famous for their purpose tint that is hard to get out, you can get it out of Delta 100 (which is the one that suffers the most from this) with adequate washing. Just keep washing until it comes out.
For me, since I use permawash, I get rid of it pretty quickly. It starts coming out in the wash between fixes (I use a 2-bath fix, mind you). Then a lot after the 2nd fix, then less and less during permawash and first rinse. It's usually completely gone from the wash water by the time I get to the 10 inversion cycle of the Ilford method.
allan
As compare to TMAX films, which are famous for their purpose tint that is hard to get out, you can get it out of Delta 100 (which is the one that suffers the most from this) with adequate washing. Just keep washing until it comes out.
For me, since I use permawash, I get rid of it pretty quickly. It starts coming out in the wash between fixes (I use a 2-bath fix, mind you). Then a lot after the 2nd fix, then less and less during permawash and first rinse. It's usually completely gone from the wash water by the time I get to the 10 inversion cycle of the Ilford method.
allan
AGN
Established
Don, do you use a presoak? I find the presoak water to pour out purple and the negatives do not have a cast.
Art
Art
Max Power
Well-known
Don,
In my limited experience of about 500ft of D-100, I have found that it is very tough on fix. As an indication, if it comes out purple, as opposed to a grey of about 0.1 density, then either your fix is exhausted, or you haven't fixed enough. That is to say, it ought to come out of the fix without any purple cast.
I usually use Ilford Rapid Fix at 1+4 for 5:00 when freshly mixed, and 7:00 when it's been used a few times. Even then, the leader usually clears in about 1:30 when it's less than fresh.
Kent
In my limited experience of about 500ft of D-100, I have found that it is very tough on fix. As an indication, if it comes out purple, as opposed to a grey of about 0.1 density, then either your fix is exhausted, or you haven't fixed enough. That is to say, it ought to come out of the fix without any purple cast.
I usually use Ilford Rapid Fix at 1+4 for 5:00 when freshly mixed, and 7:00 when it's been used a few times. Even then, the leader usually clears in about 1:30 when it's less than fresh.
Kent
fishtek
Don
Great help, folks! Seems I'm not fixing long enough. I'll try another roll tomorrow, and fix for 5-6 minutes, and see what happens.
Regards!
Don
Regards!
Don
x-ray
Veteran
Ilford Delta 100 and 400 are my main films. I was one of the field testers for both these films prior to their release in the market. Both films are so good that they became my main emulsions. I can say I've used them longer then they've been on the market.
It's not recommended that you presoak the film but if it works for you then have at it. Presoaking can change the developement characteristics due to saturating the emulsion with water prior to introducing the developer.
Delta 100 never clears totally in my fixing. I use FT 4 Formulary fixer for about 5 minutes. The fixer has no hardner which helps the purple come out. No need for hardner usually because the emulsion is prehardened now. Hardner also makes washing more difficult. Probably 50% of the purple comes out in the fixer and then a 3-5 minute hypo clearing bath removes about 40%. The final wash of ten minutes removes the rest.
My standard developer is Ilford HC @ 1:47 (from concentrate) @68F for 7-1/2 minutes with very gentle agitiation at 30 second intervals. It is high accutance, full speed and does not block highlights and has full shadow detail ( true 100 speed).
Since the intro of Delta films I've probably shot 6-7 thousand rolls and many many sheets to 8x10.
I also did the trade trial testing of the prerelease T-max films. You see what film I use!
It's not recommended that you presoak the film but if it works for you then have at it. Presoaking can change the developement characteristics due to saturating the emulsion with water prior to introducing the developer.
Delta 100 never clears totally in my fixing. I use FT 4 Formulary fixer for about 5 minutes. The fixer has no hardner which helps the purple come out. No need for hardner usually because the emulsion is prehardened now. Hardner also makes washing more difficult. Probably 50% of the purple comes out in the fixer and then a 3-5 minute hypo clearing bath removes about 40%. The final wash of ten minutes removes the rest.
My standard developer is Ilford HC @ 1:47 (from concentrate) @68F for 7-1/2 minutes with very gentle agitiation at 30 second intervals. It is high accutance, full speed and does not block highlights and has full shadow detail ( true 100 speed).
Since the intro of Delta films I've probably shot 6-7 thousand rolls and many many sheets to 8x10.
I also did the trade trial testing of the prerelease T-max films. You see what film I use!
R
rich815
Guest
I thought I remember reading on some forums where Ilford explicitly says NOT to use a pre-wash (?). Anyway, very nice shot. As much as I love gritty, old-style B&W films I fell in love with Delta 100 in D-76 1-1 for portraits and the like. Gorgeous, smooth tones. These are a few of my results with D-76 1-1:
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=320526402&size=o
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=145071644&size=o
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=143858750&size=o
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=320526402&size=o
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=145071644&size=o
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=143858750&size=o
kaiyen
local man of mystery
As mentioned, Ilford specifically recommends against a pre-wash, but whatever works works. Just stay consistent. But, again, it'll come out in the wash (and it's easier with permawash in there).
allan
allan
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Don: You can re-fix dried film.
markinlondon
Elmar user
The purple cast will fade over time. I don't really worry about it. D100 is about the only "new technology" film I can get on with but that probably says more about me than the film.