EthanFrank
Well-known
I'm having a little trouble wrapping my head around Ilford's Multrigrade Paper and Filter system. I have RC Multigrade paper that I've been using, along with a book of Multigrade filters. I've made a few prints, and I used the #2 filter as Ilford's beginner guide recommended - they turned out fine but I'd like to have a greater understanding of the system. If anyone could point me towards some info, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
FrankS
Registered User
Just print the same neg using the different filters to see the effect. This will result in a better understanding of the system.
williams473
Well-known
Hi Ethan,
I don't know about an official handbook, but here's the general lowdown:
The advantage of using multigrade paper with filters is that you can use one box of paper to make prints of various contrast grades. Prior to multigrade paper, a printer had "graded" paper to manage contrast, so he or she would need multiple boxes of paper on hand.
Grade 2 is indeed a good starting point, because this is the grade considered to be "normal" contrast. However, as we know our negatives are not often perfectly exposed and the prints need contrast help, or sometimes we wish to boost (or even cut down on) contrast for aesthetic/creative reasons.
So what you have are a set of filters, probably from grade 00 on up to 5 in half-steps. My method was always to start at 2, evaluate my test print(s), and change if needed. You want to do this early on, since changing to a higher grade filter will lengthen your exposure time the higher you go in grades (due to the increased density of the filters themselves I believe.)
As far as how it all actually physically works in terms of what the light is doing is somewhat beyond me so I'll leave that to the techincal photographers, but in practice, you just need to know that 2 is normal, anything lower than that will decrease contrast from normal, and anything higher than that will increase contrast from normal.
A little good tip when using the higher grade filters is to focus your negative prior to putting the filter in - it makes focusing a lot easier.
Hope that helps - have a good one!
Matt
I don't know about an official handbook, but here's the general lowdown:
The advantage of using multigrade paper with filters is that you can use one box of paper to make prints of various contrast grades. Prior to multigrade paper, a printer had "graded" paper to manage contrast, so he or she would need multiple boxes of paper on hand.
Grade 2 is indeed a good starting point, because this is the grade considered to be "normal" contrast. However, as we know our negatives are not often perfectly exposed and the prints need contrast help, or sometimes we wish to boost (or even cut down on) contrast for aesthetic/creative reasons.
So what you have are a set of filters, probably from grade 00 on up to 5 in half-steps. My method was always to start at 2, evaluate my test print(s), and change if needed. You want to do this early on, since changing to a higher grade filter will lengthen your exposure time the higher you go in grades (due to the increased density of the filters themselves I believe.)
As far as how it all actually physically works in terms of what the light is doing is somewhat beyond me so I'll leave that to the techincal photographers, but in practice, you just need to know that 2 is normal, anything lower than that will decrease contrast from normal, and anything higher than that will increase contrast from normal.
A little good tip when using the higher grade filters is to focus your negative prior to putting the filter in - it makes focusing a lot easier.
Hope that helps - have a good one!
Matt
Mike Riches
Established
Along with all of the above , try mixing filters ie. maybe a low filter #1 and a #3 then add a little #5 (10%) . That will pop your blacks . You'll get so hooked you'll never come out of the darkroom .
Regards Mike
Regards Mike
FrankS
Registered User
Look into "split filter printing".
EthanFrank
Well-known
Thank you all for the masses of information! It helps quite a bit.
Very cool stuff! I've got to try experimenting with that. One thing I'm confused about - How do you determine the times to develop the final print, when you make two separate test prints with either filter extreme?
Very cool stuff! I've got to try experimenting with that. One thing I'm confused about - How do you determine the times to develop the final print, when you make two separate test prints with either filter extreme?
Last edited:
EthanFrank
Well-known
Here's my first crack at using the filters more creatively than just throwing a #2 in:
Used a #1, and then a #3 1/2 at the end for some contrast to separate the subject from a rather cluttered background.Used a #1, and then a #3 1/2 at the end for some contrast to separate the subject from a rather cluttered background.
img261 by -eth-, on Flickr
Used a #1, and then a #3 1/2 at the end for some contrast to separate the subject from a rather cluttered background.Used a #1, and then a #3 1/2 at the end for some contrast to separate the subject from a rather cluttered background.
img261 by -eth-, on Flickr