totifoto
Well-known
Today I was given a few expired Ilford XP2 in 120. These are C-41 films. I was thinking about developing the in b&w chemicals. I found by a short google that many use Rodinal stand developing for them but I use XTOL all the time with Tri-X and was wondering if anyone here had the experince in developing the XP2 in Xtol?
Sparrow
Veteran
... I've developed fresh film in id11 and it was OK. Why not overexpose it a bit and use c41 out of interest?
lynnb
Veteran
I've developed expired C41 colour in XTOL and obtained reasonable but not great results converted to bw. But XP2 is such a nice film, why not just develop it in C41 and see what you get. I'd go with Stewart's suggestion. Just my 2c.
totifoto
Well-known
C41 is just to expensive here ( Iceland ) these films are expired and I just wanted to use them to test out my newly bought Mamiya C330.
Just shot 2 rolls around the house with it. Just going to try developing it in Xtol and see what comes out.
Just shot 2 rolls around the house with it. Just going to try developing it in Xtol and see what comes out.
lynnb
Veteran
feel welcome to post results here. Other people might find it useful. Hope your C330 works out - the Mamiya lenses have a great reputation.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Hmm. Most any photofinisher or 1-hour developer here will develop negs-only in their C41 machine for US$6. Is this not available in Iceland?
G
totifoto
Well-known
It is available but the price is around 8$ just for the roll, if you get them on CD with bad low res auto levels scanning you pay around 13$.
I just want to see if my mamiya C330 is working, don't want to spent money on develoing if I can just do it at home with the Xtol I already have. If the camera is working as it should I might use the rest of the rolls and take them to C-41 lab. But I prefer Kodak Tri-X
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
My experience developing a B&W C-41 film (Kodak's 400CN or whatever they had changed the labelling to that year) with "traditional" B&W chemicals was immediately disappointing --orange mask, which is not an issue w/XP2-- and in the long-term a lesson in mortality and all its derivative derivatives: the image will fade slowly forever, like the years of Western Optimism in the late 1990s.
I guess what I'm trying to say is: don't do it; unless you have some extremely thick skin.
I guess what I'm trying to say is: don't do it; unless you have some extremely thick skin.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Oh I understand. I normally just get the negs processed and do my own scanning when desired. Even $8 is cheap considering the time needed for processing here, but if you're all set up already, just go for it.
G
totifoto
Well-known
Gave it 10 min in Xtol stock @ 20°C, looks ok, films are washing right now, will scan later tonight.
totifoto
Well-known
Well, developing the film in Xtol was no problem and the film came out ok and was easy to scan. Just some B&W conversion in photoshop and the tones looks ok, no Kodak Tri-X though
Still trying to figure out this Mamiya C330 though. Not sure the focus is out of alignment or I just did the mistake of shooting handheld at too slow speeds. Almost all the shots ware shot at 1/60 or 1/30 of sek and most of them were blurred or the focus was not on the subject. The camera has a left hand grip and a prism finder and since there is no mirror slap I thought I would be ok.
next film is going to be Trix and shot at higher speeds, will see then if it wil get out of focus or not.
Still trying to figure out this Mamiya C330 though. Not sure the focus is out of alignment or I just did the mistake of shooting handheld at too slow speeds. Almost all the shots ware shot at 1/60 or 1/30 of sek and most of them were blurred or the focus was not on the subject. The camera has a left hand grip and a prism finder and since there is no mirror slap I thought I would be ok.
next film is going to be Trix and shot at higher speeds, will see then if it wil get out of focus or not.
rhl-oregon
Cameras Guitars Wonders
A couple of thoughts:
1/It's a beast, and though stable, handholding in the unusual posture (head bent, arms akimbo and raised high) at 1/30 is likely to be iffy.
2/Your C330 speeds may be slower than they say after all these years. Not 1/60 but 1/40, not 1/30 but 1/15…
The TriX test at 1/125+ should prove something. But also shooting a few more at the slow speeds.
1/It's a beast, and though stable, handholding in the unusual posture (head bent, arms akimbo and raised high) at 1/30 is likely to be iffy.
2/Your C330 speeds may be slower than they say after all these years. Not 1/60 but 1/40, not 1/30 but 1/15…
The TriX test at 1/125+ should prove something. But also shooting a few more at the slow speeds.
totifoto
Well-known
After a bit of google and looking better at the camera I see that I need to change the foams under the focusing screen, they are all damaged