Canon LTM In my hands a QL17...

Canon M39 M39 screw mount bodies/lenses

Fedzilla_Bob

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I won a ql17 for a very modest sum. It appears to be in in 90% working order. I dont have a battery yet.

This is not one of the compact tidy little ones either. This one is a sumo class QL, almost the size of my GSN.

There are oddities I don't quite get, like the lock-out that occurs if it is set to "auto." I guess a manual is called for.

Does amyone have a link to one?

Plus- it could use a CLA. The viewfinder is hazy. Any advice? Pictures soon...

Bob H
 
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Thanks!

Problem is my ql17 is not a GIII model. Its a 1961 ql17. Haven't seen a manual for that model yet. There appear to be significant differences.

(correction: first marketed in 1965)

It looks like this...
 
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Sorry folks- I am not trying to perform a monologue...

I have been "Googling" the ql17. Mostly what I find is about the QL17 GIII.

I did go to the Canon "camera hall," at their history site and found a bit about this particular camera- http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/f_camera.html

I did notice one discrepency- they state that the highest ASA is 400. Yet my QL shows a max of 800. It is also stated that the aperture scale resides at the bottom of the viewfinder. Mine is at the top. This leads me to believe that either there are manufacturing differences - or - there are errors in the content at that site.

As always, any advice is appreciated.

Bob H
 
Hi, Bob!

The camera seems to lock when you set it to Auto because it's a shutter-priority AE baby. In fact, with a battery, it'll work the meter. Now, turn the lens shutterspeed ring and the aperture ring to make a particular EV and you got a nice, manual, meterless camera going for you.

In my Canonet (the G-III QL17), the AE blocks the shutter if the EV isn't right (too little light or too much of it). That's with or without a battery. Try get a PX625 at any Wallyworld. No matter what our local curmudgeon (Mark) says, they power these cameras well enough.

And, one last thing: use mostly slow film. Those San Diego days aren't for ISO 400 in the guts of a Canonet. Why? Too much sun, the camera won't let you shoot because you'll need a shutterspeed of 1/1000 at f16. It happened to me already, so I load it often with slow film.

Enjoy! ;)
 
Thanks Solares!
Looks like I have a nice chunk of a camera here. They carry the batteries at Long's Drug's here.

I have a couple of lens hoods (this version of the QL takes a 55mm filter) for the sun here. Not sure which would be better. I will err on the side of the wider version. I also have a bunch of 100 and 200 asa film to work with.

I tell you, I thought all of the Canonet's were compact. Not this one. It weighs 810 grams and it is exactly the width of the Yashica Electro 35 GSN. Not as tall as the Electro though.

It is somewhat more business like in appearance too due to the smaller radius on all of the edges and corners. Also it has a nice satin chrome finish, Less "bling" than the Electro.

The glass is particularly clean and had a UV filter attached. The self timer seems stuck. Not a great problem though.
 
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Hi,
The manual you are looking for is on my website. Try http://www.pentax-manuals.com/manuals/range/range.htm The rest of the QL series including the 19E is also there with a few other offerings. If anyone has any others, I will gladly publish them.

BTW, I wouldn't mess with the timer, it is the easiest way to jam the camera. However, if you must ry it, it only works with X synch selected. There is an interlock inside which should prevent it from being used in the other flash mode. I got a really nice looking one with a stuck shutter. When I took it apart it was stuck because some idiot had forced the timer and bent the interlink beyond repair. Anyone need spares?

And before you all start, I know the Fujicas are not rangefinders but they are not Pentax's either and I had to put them somewhere ;)

Kim
 
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Hi again,
Having been reading another thread on batteries, I thought of something else. The very early QL17 used an LR50 battery but the later ones used the more normal 625. The LR50s are not that easy to get hold off and tend to be alkaline which can affect the meter circuit. I use a 1/3 AA NiCd or NiMH cell. These give closer to the correct 1.35v and are rechargable. In the UK they are also cheaper than the LR50s and you will never have to buy another :p

Kim
 
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