industar 61 or jupiter 8 for my bessa r?

The build quality on the 1950s lenses tends to be the best in my opinion. There was a change in the construcion of the J-8 in early 1955, as I just learned. Now I've used three types with the non-rotating mount. None of the Tabbed versions have ever given me a problem. One of the non-tabbed versions did, and is in the "parts bin". I just rebuilt a 1962 non-tabbed lens, which is quite good.

Check the pictures carefully.
 
The shot I posted about was with an early ('55) J-8 with a tab... I just rebuilt a couple I've had laying around for a while... all mid to late 50's models... I haven't tried them all out to see if they focus ok, but I like all of them. You can find them cheap enough that it's no big loss if it's not a great copy... there's tons of online resources on how to CLA it by yourself with nothing but a small flat head screwdriver.
 
I checked out Kim's excellent J8 document here: http://www.pentax-manuals.com/repairs/j8service.pdf

I have a black version of the leftmost one, no tab and whole body rotates during focus. focus markings are engraved.

Mine front focuses at 1m, but I can correct for it by focusing properly, then either backing up an inch, or if already backed up, just by focusing a few degrees on the close side.

I tried to take mine apart, but with hand pressure, it is too tight, not sure if the previous owner glued it down, but I would need Channel locks and a rag I think to open this up.

If I did open it up, and put another shim in there (which I don't have) I'm wondering what would happen at 2.8, 4, and 5.6.

If the shift is like the Zeiss 50/1.5, which optimized for 2.8, front focuses 6 inches at 1.5 and min. distance, then I'm possibly already optimized for 2.8.

If I shimmed it, what would happen to infinity, which currently seems on?

I'll have some M8 pics of the cat the next time I pull the card out.
 
this is some good stuff. brian, when you said closely at the pictures, did you mean the advertiser's pictuers? if so, i have done so. yuri at fedka recommends the jup-8s for bessas like mine. do you reckon that includes the older ones, too?

still another question: is the industar 50 a rigid version of the ind 22? and if so, is the ind 22 a copy of the elmar 50/3.5? thanks again for all of the help. i'll make a decision in the next day or so ...
 
I have documented my J-3 projects, I really need to do this for a J-8. Kim Coxon at pentax-manuals.com has done a great job with J-8 instructions.

My Latest Jupiter-3 Clean-Lube-Adjust:

http://ziforums.com/showthread.php?t=374

The Same goes for the J-8, but visit Kim Coxon's site.

http://www.pentax-manuals.com/repairs.htm

Yuri is good, and the early J-8's and Late J-8's are all good. I find the early J-3's are better than the later ones.

By looking at the pictures: OF the lens helps. If you have a chance to see pictures taken by the lens, even better- but is not the norm.

On the focus shift: at least using the M8, the shift is not as strong as the F1.5 lens. On my latest J-3, I made a decision to optimize for F2. When "spot-on" for F1.5, the focus shift at F4 was Big. Adding a shim to optimize for Wide-Open means infinity focus will be slightly off when the lens is used wide-open. Stop it down a little, the Sonnar focus shift works in your advantage. It shifts the focus toward infinity.

I optimized this 5cm f2 CZJ Sonnar "T" now in LTM for wide-open and close-up. At F5.6, infinity is fine.

picture.php



picture.php
 
Last edited:
Hi, this is my first post here.
I recently bought a used R2a and I got a m39-M adapter for my 1961 J-8 I previously used with my Zorki-4. I followed the cla instructions and the lens is in great condition.
Upon mounting the lens on the bessa I tred to figure out how much shimming it needs. Apparently, the rangefinder coupling works fine, but I can't really see any focus shift at 2 metres. Can it be that the lens does not need to be shimmed? Or do I need a better loupe? What is the typical focus shift at aperture 2?
 
we finally had stars tonight. i pointed the bessa with the little industar 50 toward a star and focused. it is dead on the star at infinity. i trhink this is good, right? or does it really matter? some film will go to walgreens tomorrow ...
 
thanks again to all, especially to brian for his specific replies. pictures taken by the lenses i am considering are not available because they are not from individuals. certainly i would consider buying one from a member, where pictures might be available. it would be worth a premium for me to get a CLA'd one from a member or NOS because of my neurological condition. i can't handle such tiny things. one of my sons could follow the instructions, though, as could my bride. all three are deft and mechanically smart.
 
honestly if all you want is a decent 50mm... quite a few come up here regularly at less than $200... older elmars, summars, summitars... some CV 50mm f2.5's and some Canon 50mm f1.8's... lenses that are much more reliable and well built. I don't know if I'd recommend a J8 as your ONLY lens unless you get one from a reputable source that can vouch for it focusing properly and that it's mechanically and optically sound... but then you're approaching what you'd pay for one of the lenses listed above. J8's and other FSU's are really only bargains if you don't mind taking the time to CLA it yourself or don't mind rolling the dice.

I can tell you from experience... my first RF was an R2A and a friend tossed me J8 to get me started... I knew nothing about them at the time and it was completely off focus and took lousy pictures... it almost turned me off RF's completely... luckily the same friend lent me his elmar when I told him I was going to give it up :) I love my J8's to death now... but I'd never consider it as my only 50mm.
 
raid said:
These are beautiful snow scenes, Brian, but I'd rather have my beaches.
Click to expand...

That gets a thumbs-up from the entire household at this point.

I've had J-8's and J-3's that are fine out of the Box with Leica's, and others that required a big change in the shim. Most of them, over ~60%, benefit from increasing the shim by 0.1mm. It is more critical for the J-3, with its F1.5 aperture. For the J-8, you see the difference under high magnification or a fairly big enlargement. The focus is typically behind the RF, and the Sonnar shift is also rearward so it increases the error.

1955 J-8, wide-open.

picture.php


Focus is spot-on using the Canon IV-SB, 0.1mm shim added.
 
Last edited:
If sharp focus is what you want- and this J-8 is not it, save your money for the Nokton 50/1.5 or another modern lens. Even the P&S cameras of today are going to look sharper than the 1950s lenses. Of course, they are slow and easier to make. But molded aspherics are amazing. To get the same performance in a fast lens is not easy, and is more expensive. The modern Nokton is the way to go.

I do not use many "modern lenses" on my RF's. This Millenium Nikkor 50/1.4 is an exception.

Wide-Open on the Nikon S3-2000.

3033042875_d663e2ab13_o.jpg


It is sharper than any of the FSU lenses I own. It is not cheap, about double the price of the Nokton. You can expect similar performance with the Nokton.
 
Last edited:
Try the Industar 61L/D. try to buy one from someone that has used it. I've tried 4. I just do not like the mechanics. The optics are fine. Maybe some day I will remount one in the J-8 mount.
 
just processed a roll of walgreens housebrand 200 asa color shot with the r and a borrowed industar 50/3.5 rigid. quicky prints MAY show focus is awfully close if not right on. will attempt an upload from the cd in our balky main laptop ...
 
Go through some J-8s , it is the only way to tell which one is a sharp keeper or a dog of a lens.
The older silver non rotating front vs the more modern black finish ones have nothing to do with it.
I have found dogs and keepers in all styles and years of Jupiter 8s.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom