SixSeven
Member
Ever since I purchased my first rangefinder (a Mamiya 7II) a few years back, I've been told by many that graduated neutral density filters are extremely difficult if not impossible to use properly with it or any other RF. The oft-repeated line was that there's no way to properly align a GND filter, and even if you think you have it lined up properly, once you stop down to f16 or f22, the filter really won't be where you think due to the now smaller aperture hole.
Being predominantly a landscape photographer, I wanted the 7 for its incomparable sharpness and contrast, and went into it with the thinking "well, how bad can the GND problem be?".
I can confidently tell you that there is no problem whatsoever, and I have proven it, at least to myself, with some fairly exhaustive testing. I had two Lee filter holders, both the standard size. One, I made indent marks on it myself to indicate halfway, 1/4, 3/4, etc. down the face blades of the filter holder. The second filter holder I have has marked face blades directly from Lee, that have multiple different lines on which to base your filter placement.
Basically, I set up the 7 on a tripod using the 50mm in front of a plain featureless wall, and took 10 shots for each aperture: 10 at f/4.5, 10 at f/11, 10 at f/22. For some shots I switched holders just for the sake of variety. For each shot the filter was set at a different marking on the holder, and I recorded each shot's intended filter placement in a notebook.
After developing the film and looking at the negs tonight on a light box, I am pleased to say that every shot's recorded filter placement matches perfectly with what is actually on film. There is absolutely no problem using GND's on rangefinders if you have a filter holder with precise, accurately-placed indents on the faceblades so you can see exactly where to put the graduated line.
MYTH = BUSTED.
Go forth, and use your RF's for landscapes immediately!
Being predominantly a landscape photographer, I wanted the 7 for its incomparable sharpness and contrast, and went into it with the thinking "well, how bad can the GND problem be?".
I can confidently tell you that there is no problem whatsoever, and I have proven it, at least to myself, with some fairly exhaustive testing. I had two Lee filter holders, both the standard size. One, I made indent marks on it myself to indicate halfway, 1/4, 3/4, etc. down the face blades of the filter holder. The second filter holder I have has marked face blades directly from Lee, that have multiple different lines on which to base your filter placement.
Basically, I set up the 7 on a tripod using the 50mm in front of a plain featureless wall, and took 10 shots for each aperture: 10 at f/4.5, 10 at f/11, 10 at f/22. For some shots I switched holders just for the sake of variety. For each shot the filter was set at a different marking on the holder, and I recorded each shot's intended filter placement in a notebook.
After developing the film and looking at the negs tonight on a light box, I am pleased to say that every shot's recorded filter placement matches perfectly with what is actually on film. There is absolutely no problem using GND's on rangefinders if you have a filter holder with precise, accurately-placed indents on the faceblades so you can see exactly where to put the graduated line.
MYTH = BUSTED.
Go forth, and use your RF's for landscapes immediately!
hans voralberg
Veteran
So I assume you will hold the holder out to visualize the effect before putting on the lens? Or put on and estimate placement from the viewfinder?
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
I don't think anybody has ever claimed that it is impossible to use GND filters on non-SLRs if you have the time to use a tripod and ruler (or something equivalent to the latter). But under these constraints you might even do away with the GND and wave around with a piece of black board in front of the lens instead, if the exposure times are long enough...
SixSeven
Member
Estimate from viewfinder. It's a lot easier than people make it out. Even with something like a hard edge 3 stop gnd, your placement does not need to be pixel perfect, just "good enough".
SixSeven
Member
I'm assuming this is a joke... But if it isn't, I can tell you that setting up, placing the grad, and then shooting takes barely any longer than using live view to do it pixel perfect on my 5d mk ii.
Everyone says grads are difficult on RF's, and I just don't see what the big deal is. As long as you have some sort of frame of reference on the front of the filter holder and are capable of making a visual estimate of where your horizon is as a percentage of the total frame, you can achieve accurate, consistent results.