ernesto
Well-known
Here I have one more question, specially for Jaap:
I love this image that you posted in this forum:
http://forum.getdpi.com/gallery/files/5/0/ir6.jpg
And I would like to know if this was posprocessed (in Photoshop or any other image software) and in such a case, which was the procedure. (I work in PhotoShop)
Ernesto
I love this image that you posted in this forum:
http://forum.getdpi.com/gallery/files/5/0/ir6.jpg
And I would like to know if this was posprocessed (in Photoshop or any other image software) and in such a case, which was the procedure. (I work in PhotoShop)
Ernesto
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
Whew- that is a long time ago. I really don't recall, but I am fairly sure I used Curves in LAB colourspace. Looking at the image. I imagine I reversed the a-channel and steepened the b channel, and changed the vertical values as well, but I would have to try it out to be sure.
GlennB
Member
Ernesto and others,
I can say for sure that the M-mount CV 15mm lens shows a hot spot at smaller f stops, which brings up an observation. It seems to me that the intensity of the hot spot is related to the size of the lens aperture used. The smaller the aperture, the more defined and hotter the spot. So the CV 15mm might be useable at, say, wide-open to f 5.6. I aim to try this on the next outing.
I've read somewhere, that for shooting IR, the lens aperture should be no smaller than f-8 for best results (I can't remember why). So this would help for faster shutter speeds with larger f-stops, but this makes focus more critical due to shallower DOF.
Jaap has posted some superior B&W IR images here and other forums, so he may have more insight into this.
BTW, "hand-held" ability varies from person to person. The older I get the less steady my hands are!
Glenn
I can say for sure that the M-mount CV 15mm lens shows a hot spot at smaller f stops, which brings up an observation. It seems to me that the intensity of the hot spot is related to the size of the lens aperture used. The smaller the aperture, the more defined and hotter the spot. So the CV 15mm might be useable at, say, wide-open to f 5.6. I aim to try this on the next outing.
I've read somewhere, that for shooting IR, the lens aperture should be no smaller than f-8 for best results (I can't remember why). So this would help for faster shutter speeds with larger f-stops, but this makes focus more critical due to shallower DOF.
Jaap has posted some superior B&W IR images here and other forums, so he may have more insight into this.
BTW, "hand-held" ability varies from person to person. The older I get the less steady my hands are!
Glenn
GlennB
Member
Thought I'd post a recent shot with my M8 and 90mm apo asph f2 shot at f2 , 1/30 sec hand-held with a B+W 093 filter at 160 iso . Note that this lens is on the "Hot Spot" list. At f2, I had to "bracket-focus" several shots to get one with reasonable sharpness. My post processing is nowhere as good as Jaap's. I need to get him to e-mail me a tutorial !! 
Glenn
Glenn
Attachments
Last edited:
POINT OF VIEW
Established
M8 + Ir
M8 + Ir
If you own a M8 I don’t see any reason to invest in a converted DSLR. The M8 does a great job, for my view of IR photography. My choice of filters is Harrison & Harrison RD-10 (88A). I believe they custom produce there filters in Ca.. The best I can tell, no web page.
E mail - HarrisonOP@aol.com address -
Using a fast lens, hand holding is easy. I just review each shot as I go and some times need to shoot wide open. Focusing can be tricky at times, a little back focus works most of the time.
A couple of hand held shots. The color was done in PS with the spray gun tool. Bill
Just a little extreme.
M8 + Ir
If you own a M8 I don’t see any reason to invest in a converted DSLR. The M8 does a great job, for my view of IR photography. My choice of filters is Harrison & Harrison RD-10 (88A). I believe they custom produce there filters in Ca.. The best I can tell, no web page.
E mail - HarrisonOP@aol.com address -
I like the ability to change to Kelvin settings on the fly with the M8. The available effects are endless. Depending on the filter you use, it is possible to shoot color IR. Using a fast lens, hand holding is easy. I just review each shot as I go and some times need to shoot wide open. Focusing can be tricky at times, a little back focus works most of the time.
A couple of hand held shots. The color was done in PS with the spray gun tool. Bill
Just a little extreme.
DRabbit
Registered
May I ask where you bought the 92 filter?
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
Tom Niblick
Well-known
sunsworth
Well-known
I bought mine from Ffordes in the UK - www.ffordes.com - they're currently asking 22 GBP + P&P for a 093, or 50 GBP for a 092 - both 39mm.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
Of course, one does not always need filters. This is a fake Kodak "false colour film" shot simply made in Photoshop.
. This is a fake Kodak "false colour film" shot simply made in Photoshop.
ernesto
Well-known
That is GREAT!!!!
I can guess, that you may be changed the R channel for the G channel, and viceversa...
Am I right?
It is a great look!
E
I can guess, that you may be changed the R channel for the G channel, and viceversa...
Am I right?
It is a great look!
E
back alley
IMAGES
on the rd1 with zm 28 and $19 ir 750 filter.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
No- that would have killed all greens and reds, and as you can see some have been preserved. As it is I applied a drastic curve in the A channel and a less drastic one in the B channel, whilst keeping the centre points, in LAB colour space.
KEH
Well-known
I had my G10 converted to IR by Lifepixel. I expect that I will use this mostly for landscape-type shots, but some city-shooting may work as well - a recent shot from London:
I previously used a 092 filter in front of the lens (on my GRD2), but it drastically reduces the light available to the sensor.
I will post a few shots on Flickr when I have the time.
Kirk
I previously used a 092 filter in front of the lens (on my GRD2), but it drastically reduces the light available to the sensor.
I will post a few shots on Flickr when I have the time.
Kirk
mikemyers
Established
Jaap, could you please say a little more about converting to B&W? What is the difference between simply removing the color (desaturating) and the other methods?
adamduckworth
Adam Duckworth
I bought an 093 B+W filter and used it on my M8 with Zeiss 18mm and it's like looking through the bottom of a jam jar!
Is this a lens problem or am I being really stupid?
Thanks...
Is this a lens problem or am I being really stupid?
Thanks...
I would think the DOF with an 18mm lens should cover the Infrared Focus Shift. Try shooting at F8 and make sure to use the IR index
Some lenses do better than others. The old Summicrons are great for it as the DOF at F2 just about covers the IR index. Calcium Fluorite and APO lenses lenses do not have this problem.
Some lenses do better than others. The old Summicrons are great for it as the DOF at F2 just about covers the IR index. Calcium Fluorite and APO lenses lenses do not have this problem.
reala_fan
Well-known
My favorite IR camera is the Olympus C-2020z:
It's let's a little color get through...
It's let's a little color get through...
ampguy
Veteran
adamduckworth
Adam Duckworth
No, I mean HIDEOUS!
No, I mean HIDEOUS!
No, it's not a focus issue it's obviously much more fundamental than that!
Pic attached! M8, bright sunny day, 93 filter
No, that's not the sun in the frame. I have tried it a few times now and all the pics look just like this!
No, I mean HIDEOUS!
No, it's not a focus issue it's obviously much more fundamental than that!
Pic attached! M8, bright sunny day, 93 filter
No, that's not the sun in the frame. I have tried it a few times now and all the pics look just like this!