chris00nj
Young Luddite
I had the pleasure of inheriting a Leica M3 and other equipment. It was my grandfather's. He first had a Leica screwmount that got stolen back in the 60s. My Mom got an M3 for him to replace it. It got used rather extensively in the late 60s and 70s, and it took some amazing pictures all over the world. Then it sat around for about 30 years.
So my Mom gave it to me and I intend to use it. It's never been opened as it still has the wax "L." It looks great, and seems to work fine. The lenses are clear and I already used the Summaron to good success.
I don't think it needs a CLA. Are there any "hidden" dangers in not having a CLA? I'd rather not let it out of my hands as it has high sentimental value.
So my Mom gave it to me and I intend to use it. It's never been opened as it still has the wax "L." It looks great, and seems to work fine. The lenses are clear and I already used the Summaron to good success.
I don't think it needs a CLA. Are there any "hidden" dangers in not having a CLA? I'd rather not let it out of my hands as it has high sentimental value.
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capitalK
Warrior Poet :P
That looks like a nice little inheritance. I'd say if it ain't broke don't fix it but I'd probably be wrong 
wontonny
Well-known
Run a test roll, see what happens. If it comes out fine thats +1 to Leica build quality.
Bill Blackwell
Leica M Shooter
After 30-years of sitting I can pretty much guarantee it needs a CLA. If you're going to use it, why wouldn't you just do it? If you're going to let it sit for another 30-years, why not sell it to someone who might enjoy using it?
Given what you described, I wouldn't hesitate to send it in (I only use DAG) for at least a once over.
Given what you described, I wouldn't hesitate to send it in (I only use DAG) for at least a once over.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I beg to differ...
Granted, run a test film, use it, check for light leaks (streaks that run along or across the frame), make sure to write down some of your exposures so that you can check if the prints come out under or over exposed. In any event, if it's at all possible, use slide film, and examine the slides on a lightbox. Thirty years of inaction may have an effect on the grease that lubricates the moving parts, so, yes, even if the first roll comes out fine, budget for a CLA. I'm sure you know already that there are two people in the US who are Leica specialists, and a myriad more that can probably do a regular, run-of-the-mill CLA. The choice is up to you, but I wouldn't rule it out.
Recently I purchased a Leica M4-2. I had what looks like a leak in one of the frames only, nothing in the next three rolls. However, I'm still going to send it for a CLA... sometime before the year's out.
BTW, congratulations on a very nice inheritance!
Granted, run a test film, use it, check for light leaks (streaks that run along or across the frame), make sure to write down some of your exposures so that you can check if the prints come out under or over exposed. In any event, if it's at all possible, use slide film, and examine the slides on a lightbox. Thirty years of inaction may have an effect on the grease that lubricates the moving parts, so, yes, even if the first roll comes out fine, budget for a CLA. I'm sure you know already that there are two people in the US who are Leica specialists, and a myriad more that can probably do a regular, run-of-the-mill CLA. The choice is up to you, but I wouldn't rule it out.
Recently I purchased a Leica M4-2. I had what looks like a leak in one of the frames only, nothing in the next three rolls. However, I'm still going to send it for a CLA... sometime before the year's out.
BTW, congratulations on a very nice inheritance!
ZeissFan
Veteran
I agree with the others in that you should put some film in the camera and test it.
But first, remove the lens, open the back door flap, hold it up to a bright light and check both shutter curtains for pinholes.
If everything looks good, get some inexpensive color film and shoot a test roll.
However, I probably would keep open the possibility that it needs routine service and budget for it. Not a bad thing, and it will give you a reliable camera for the next couple of decades, possibly longer.
But first, remove the lens, open the back door flap, hold it up to a bright light and check both shutter curtains for pinholes.
If everything looks good, get some inexpensive color film and shoot a test roll.
However, I probably would keep open the possibility that it needs routine service and budget for it. Not a bad thing, and it will give you a reliable camera for the next couple of decades, possibly longer.
Nope, no 'hidden dangers' if you don't do a CLA. If it needs a CLA you'll see it in the photos, or you'll hear it in the shutter if the speeds are off. Worst case, the shutter might jam but that's unlikely. Just don't force anything if that happens.
DAG is the best, but he's extremely slow nowadays and not good about email replies. Use the telephone if you send anything to DAG and be prepared to wait.
DAG is the best, but he's extremely slow nowadays and not good about email replies. Use the telephone if you send anything to DAG and be prepared to wait.
KM-25
Well-known
if you have never used an M3, then treat your self fully and get a CLA from DAG or Sherry Krauter. Sherry seems to be better on turn around times lately.
Even if you don't think it needs it, you will notice a difference after you get one. Dust free finder optics, smoother advance and shutter release, it all adds up to about the best 35mm camera you will ever use.
The biggest reason I love mine is that like the M4 and M2, it has no built in meter, so the shutter does not have a half way point when depressing it.
That means that when it is well tuned, it is so smooth it will blow your mind.
If this were a beater from some ebay auction, I would say take your chances. But this is a family heirloom, make your Grandpa proud and tune that sucker, you will not regret it one bit.
Oh yeah, put some Kodachrome in front of that 50/2 and shoot in ripping good light. Talk about tasty!!
Even if you don't think it needs it, you will notice a difference after you get one. Dust free finder optics, smoother advance and shutter release, it all adds up to about the best 35mm camera you will ever use.
The biggest reason I love mine is that like the M4 and M2, it has no built in meter, so the shutter does not have a half way point when depressing it.
That means that when it is well tuned, it is so smooth it will blow your mind.
If this were a beater from some ebay auction, I would say take your chances. But this is a family heirloom, make your Grandpa proud and tune that sucker, you will not regret it one bit.
Oh yeah, put some Kodachrome in front of that 50/2 and shoot in ripping good light. Talk about tasty!!
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Roger Hicks
Veteran
Seconded. In the longer term, yes, it's probably a good idea: as others have said, it'll feel nicer and work better. In the short term, if it works, no, you're not going to do any detectable damage by using it after 30 years -- which I assume is what you were worried about.
When I started using Leicas, almost 40 years ago, no-one I knew ever did 'precautionary' maintenance on even the oldest Leicas: we used 'em until they stopped working, then had 'em repaired. Indeed, the recommended cure for sticky shutter speeds was (and is) plenty of exercise. There was many a camera that didn't work too well when it was bought, but after a bit of exercise gave years of service. And I knew a LOT of Leica owners.
Cheers,
R.
cosmonot
uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝʞ
My humble opinion: If the shutter speeds are consistent (more important than absolute accuracy) and it focuses your f2 lens precisely, then skip the CLA. Save the $$$ or invest it in film or throw it at a new lens.
Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
Shoot a roll of slides on all speeds and measure with a reliable meter. Do a close focus check at f2. If that is ok, don't bother with a CLA.
But I'm pretty sure it will need one (M2 experience). If so, have it done by an expert, you will be glad you did. If it needs more work (shutter, RF) it might cost more than yopu expect but just do it. And rest assured you can leave it to your own grandchildren in a few decades.
But I'm pretty sure it will need one (M2 experience). If so, have it done by an expert, you will be glad you did. If it needs more work (shutter, RF) it might cost more than yopu expect but just do it. And rest assured you can leave it to your own grandchildren in a few decades.
chris00nj
Young Luddite
Thanks for all of your input. I'll have to see how the roll turns out. I have a roll of Kodachrome in it right now. I'd rather not have to let it leave my hands for a couple months if I don't have to.
I'll probably need a new VC meter. I got a MR4 meter which needs the dreaded mercury battery (and I've dealt with that with my Canonet) and it also has a cute little Leica Meter 3, which is a selenium cell. For the first few shots, I was using the meter on my Bessa, but carrying two cameras will get old.
Ah...I didn't think about that. It has a very quiet shutter, much more quite than the Bessa.
I'll probably need a new VC meter. I got a MR4 meter which needs the dreaded mercury battery (and I've dealt with that with my Canonet) and it also has a cute little Leica Meter 3, which is a selenium cell. For the first few shots, I was using the meter on my Bessa, but carrying two cameras will get old.
Ah...I didn't think about that. It has a very quiet shutter, much more quite than the Bessa.
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J J Kapsberger
Well-known
The thing might have sentimental value, but you did live for decades without it (as it sat drying out), so you can reasonably expect to manage to live without it for a couple of months. In fact, it need not be a couple of months if you send it to the right place, for example Kindermann in Markham, ON. Gerry Smith would turn it around inside of two weeks and he's been doing Leica since the 60s (i.e., he's eminently trustworthy).
You value this camera. Why not bring it to the best condition through expert service? My buddy also had an M3 with the wax seal intact. It had dried out. He sent it to Kindermann for a partial CLA. The camera afterward felt unbelievably smooth, especially the film advance. It really made a difference.
In the long run, over the life of your M3 (likely it'll see you off), the $300 paid now simply wouldn't be significant, and the chances of the camera getting lost are negligible if you ship it correctly (e.g. expedited).
Do it!
You value this camera. Why not bring it to the best condition through expert service? My buddy also had an M3 with the wax seal intact. It had dried out. He sent it to Kindermann for a partial CLA. The camera afterward felt unbelievably smooth, especially the film advance. It really made a difference.
In the long run, over the life of your M3 (likely it'll see you off), the $300 paid now simply wouldn't be significant, and the chances of the camera getting lost are negligible if you ship it correctly (e.g. expedited).
Do it!
feenej
Well-known
That's classy. My Grandpa left us a Voigtlander, the one with the really long shutter button. My brother has it.
If you do decide on a CLA after seeing the 'chrome results, Youxin Ye can turn it around very quickly for a very reasonable price (less than $125 assuming no parts are needed, maybe a week turnaround.) I've sent him a bunch of cameras in the past few months and it's never taken more than a few days. He's very highly regarded on the RFF forums. wye7 at yahoo.com, he's in Canton, Mass.
hans voralberg
Veteran
Doesnt hurt to have a CLA, it'll be much more enjoyable
oscroft
Veteran
If you mean a Voigtlander Vitessa, then I think the long thing is a film advance plunger (which is meant to be quick, hence the name), rather than a shutter release, isn't it?
drewbarb
picnic like it's 1999
Congratulations on the new camera. I hope receiving it doesn't mean you had to lose a loved one recently, but either way, the best way to honor your grandfather's photographic legacy is to use the camera. For now, I'd say just shoot with it, and keep an eye on it. Does the second curtain close all the way? Are there any light leaks? Weird noises? Shutter speeds seem pretty consistent? How do your exposures look? A dry camera will sound louder, and you might hear scraping noises or feel burrs in the advance. But if it looks, feels and sounds ok, and the film looks good, I'd say just keep shooting.
If/when you do want to send it somewhere for service, I heartily recommend Youxin Ye, in Canton, MA. He does excellent work on older M's. He thoroughly rehabbed both of my M3's a couple of years ago, including the one I inherited from my great uncle, which I hate to let out of my hands. He's a very nice guy, very trust-worthy, and VERY affordable (it's a no-overhead side business for him, so he can charge much less than the others). His work is just as good as DAG or Sherry and he's FAST, so you don't have to be without your camera for more than a week or two.
As for metering, I suggest you get a small handheld meter. Take a couple of readings to get highlight and shadow readings in the light you have, and put it away. You can change between the needed settings just by looking. You will quickly learn to know what exposure you need, and you'll need the meter less and less. This works great with negatives. With slides, you'll want/need to be more careful, but even there, it's pretty easy to get decent exposures- especially if you want to bracket a bit until you really get the hang of it. Many folks are afraid of shooting without a meter in or on the camera, but once you get past the first fears, it's easy, fun, and really empowering. I liken the experience to driving a manual transmission as opposed to an automatic- it's easier and more fun than you might think, and once you get comfortable, you'll never want to go back. Anyway, good luck, and enjoy your new M3!
If/when you do want to send it somewhere for service, I heartily recommend Youxin Ye, in Canton, MA. He does excellent work on older M's. He thoroughly rehabbed both of my M3's a couple of years ago, including the one I inherited from my great uncle, which I hate to let out of my hands. He's a very nice guy, very trust-worthy, and VERY affordable (it's a no-overhead side business for him, so he can charge much less than the others). His work is just as good as DAG or Sherry and he's FAST, so you don't have to be without your camera for more than a week or two.
As for metering, I suggest you get a small handheld meter. Take a couple of readings to get highlight and shadow readings in the light you have, and put it away. You can change between the needed settings just by looking. You will quickly learn to know what exposure you need, and you'll need the meter less and less. This works great with negatives. With slides, you'll want/need to be more careful, but even there, it's pretty easy to get decent exposures- especially if you want to bracket a bit until you really get the hang of it. Many folks are afraid of shooting without a meter in or on the camera, but once you get past the first fears, it's easy, fun, and really empowering. I liken the experience to driving a manual transmission as opposed to an automatic- it's easier and more fun than you might think, and once you get comfortable, you'll never want to go back. Anyway, good luck, and enjoy your new M3!
Joe
Established
My Grandfather left me an M5 with Summilux 35 and 50, and elmarit 135. But bragging aside, when I received the camera it had a huge dent, fungus in the viewfinder, a broken take up spool, and the rangefinder was out of vertical adjustment.
I used it for three years in that condition and got some of the best pictures of my life.
I didn't even know the rangefinder was out of whack, I thought it was supposed to be that way.
I used it for three years in that condition and got some of the best pictures of my life.
I didn't even know the rangefinder was out of whack, I thought it was supposed to be that way.
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funkaoshi
Well-known
I wouldn't get a CLA unless the camera isn't working. What's the point, otherwise? Try using the camera for a little while and see if things are off before worrying about any of this.