JonR
Well-known
My X100 just arrived and I will start to test it over the next week. I am will shooting jpg only and will most likely start using a combination of manual and auto mode.
Just to check with those of you who have had it for some time - are there any obvious changes you suggest compared with the defaul settings??
I have picked up that formatting the memory card in the camera makes sense but other than that?! Any comments??
Jon R
Just to check with those of you who have had it for some time - are there any obvious changes you suggest compared with the defaul settings??
I have picked up that formatting the memory card in the camera makes sense but other than that?! Any comments??
Jon R
bwcolor
Veteran
I shoot RAW only. I get so much flexibility out of this setting that just can't be found when using JPG. I can convert quickly when needed, or take advantage of the large dynamic range of RAW and the ability to edit and not need to compress on top of the previous JPG compression. To me, this is the most important setting and with memory costs being low, I don't understand why a JPG person would not at least record both. Using a very fast card, the time penalty isn't great and the ability to edit the few images that need some tweaking is greatly improved.
intheviewfinder
Street
This is the camera I carry when I don't want to carry "the big stuff." Generally I shoot just about anything moving, or not. Right now I'm carrying it a lot in order to get the operation ingrained into my brain a bit. I want it simple and I don't want it to get in the way.
Shooting Menu
– ISO -> 200
– Dynamic Range -> 100
– AE/AF-Lock Button -> AF Lock Only
– AF Mode -> Area
Setup Menu
– Silent Mode -> OFF
– Image Dis -> OFF
– Operational Vol -> OFF
– Shutter Vol -> OFF
– Auto Power Off -> 5 MIN
– OVF power Save Mode -> OFF
– Image Quality -> set to RAW
– Quick Start Mode -> ON
– Fn Button -> ISO
– ISO Auto Control -> ON (Max Sensitivity -> 3200 === Min. Shutter Speed -> 1/30)
I also set-up a custom OVF display (I turned off Dynamic Range, Film Simulation, & Image quality)
A lot of the shooting menu settings are for JPG processing, since I'm shooting raw they don't tend to affect my shooting. This camera certainly "feels" like my old rangefinder (yeah I know, it's not) so I tend not to do much image review. I use the histogram to make sure I got the light and the occasional image review to make sure I got the composition. Sometimes I put it into monochrome mode just so I can work from camera through post that way. Otherwise I leave the JPG stuff alone. I'll probably use the ND on occasion but I can use the menu to access that feature.
Generally I use AF-S, leave the focus in the middle and lock it with the AE/AF-Lock button if I want an off-center focus point. I initially thought the manual focus a bit cumbersome especially going from close to far (or vice versa). Once I figured out to use the AFL/AEL button to get close and the focus ring on the lens to fine tune the focus, it has become a lot easier to use.
I like to go into manual exposure now and again because "I just know how to get what I want."
If there's one thing I'd like to have it's a way to turn Auto-ISO off & on with a button.
A couple of folks asked, "It's so quiet. How do do know if you took the shot?" Easy, the display flashes for the briefest instant.
Took me a couple of hours to figure out a basic set-up. Another few days to play and tweak. Now it's been rock n' roll.
--Rich
Shooting Menu
– ISO -> 200
– Dynamic Range -> 100
– AE/AF-Lock Button -> AF Lock Only
– AF Mode -> Area
Setup Menu
– Silent Mode -> OFF
– Image Dis -> OFF
– Operational Vol -> OFF
– Shutter Vol -> OFF
– Auto Power Off -> 5 MIN
– OVF power Save Mode -> OFF
– Image Quality -> set to RAW
– Quick Start Mode -> ON
– Fn Button -> ISO
– ISO Auto Control -> ON (Max Sensitivity -> 3200 === Min. Shutter Speed -> 1/30)
I also set-up a custom OVF display (I turned off Dynamic Range, Film Simulation, & Image quality)
A lot of the shooting menu settings are for JPG processing, since I'm shooting raw they don't tend to affect my shooting. This camera certainly "feels" like my old rangefinder (yeah I know, it's not) so I tend not to do much image review. I use the histogram to make sure I got the light and the occasional image review to make sure I got the composition. Sometimes I put it into monochrome mode just so I can work from camera through post that way. Otherwise I leave the JPG stuff alone. I'll probably use the ND on occasion but I can use the menu to access that feature.
Generally I use AF-S, leave the focus in the middle and lock it with the AE/AF-Lock button if I want an off-center focus point. I initially thought the manual focus a bit cumbersome especially going from close to far (or vice versa). Once I figured out to use the AFL/AEL button to get close and the focus ring on the lens to fine tune the focus, it has become a lot easier to use.
I like to go into manual exposure now and again because "I just know how to get what I want."
If there's one thing I'd like to have it's a way to turn Auto-ISO off & on with a button.
A couple of folks asked, "It's so quiet. How do do know if you took the shot?" Easy, the display flashes for the briefest instant.
Took me a couple of hours to figure out a basic set-up. Another few days to play and tweak. Now it's been rock n' roll.
--Rich
M4streetshooter
Tourist Thru Life
Rich, your setup is just about the same as mine.
I have started to do Auto ISO...I know, I know but the camera is just so good it's ok.
So, I have the function button on ND but haven't neede it that much.
MF is probably the best way to go as you can hit the AF button to get AF in a pinch.
You also get to focus close without changing focus modes.
I do A mode as I can see my DOF and adjust the range I desire.
Great camera....
I have started to do Auto ISO...I know, I know but the camera is just so good it's ok.
So, I have the function button on ND but haven't neede it that much.
MF is probably the best way to go as you can hit the AF button to get AF in a pinch.
You also get to focus close without changing focus modes.
I do A mode as I can see my DOF and adjust the range I desire.
Great camera....
The way I use mine is with Auto ISO (up to 3200) and in manual mode. That way I can choose the shutter speed and aperture combo I really want to use and let the Auto ISO change based on those settings. Since the high ISO is great on the camera, I don't feel like I'm losing much. Outside of that, Auto Focus all the time, optical VF most of the time (with very basic info), and RAW only.
bwcolor
Veteran
Most of my cameras are manual focus rangefinders, but I'm not sure that I see the advantage of using manual focus with this camera. I also prefer to use the central rectangle to focus. I lock focus with the half-press of the shutter. My AF/AEL lock button is set to AEL only. This lets me set exposure separate from focus lock when needed. I use either the matrix/multi mode, or spot depending on what I'm shooting. I've tried manual focus with the lock button as AF lock, but I find it still difficult to focus and the contoller magnification just disorienting. So, haven't found a good method for manual focus, nor the need.
Do any of you have suggestions on how/when to use the continuous focus. It certainly isn't responsive like my 1DMKIII. An extreme comparison, but interested how you use and how it works in continuous focus. Hope this doesn't misdirect thread.
Do any of you have suggestions on how/when to use the continuous focus. It certainly isn't responsive like my 1DMKIII. An extreme comparison, but interested how you use and how it works in continuous focus. Hope this doesn't misdirect thread.
DavidX
Established
Hey - Clever! I only just worked that out as a possiblity.
As everyone says - RAW is great, but personally I'm trying to get an OOC jpeg look that I like for my happysnaps (I would do anything serious in RAW)
For my snaps I'm trying to get a sort of dated tranny look - Iused to shoot a lot of Sensia in the '90s.
I'm pretty happy with this:
Most things are left to default.
I don't like Auto ISO as I really want the iSO to control the "look" - I like 3200 but am not so keen on 6400.
So I'm liking 3200 ASA, with ASTIA (as others have noted, it's actually punchier than PROVIA, but for me VELVIA is too much) then I bump the colour to Med High and the shadows to Med Hard. I can lose some shadows there, but I don't mind)
I've set DR to Auto - but I have not really tested; this will interfere with shadow/highlight so I'm sure it would pay to look a bit closer there.
I'm shooting pretty open as I always used to have to shoot wide open with 100ASA tranny film. I think 2.8 is pretty good, or f4 if sharpness matters. (f2 can be a bit freaky; I think that's where this camera really has some character of its own)
I set it up in A mode, MF using the AE button to centre focus and recompose, OVF but sometimes switching to EVF for closeup/macro.
AF is good, but it's a hassle having to switch to Macro if you get too close.
That's about it!
One area where I was spoiled in the past was with Nikon View - I could shoot Raw with the D700 and my camera settings (saturation etc) would come across with the files, so I only needed to do work on them if there was a problem to be fixed. For snaps I don't want to adjust them in Aperture. (I admit my workflow is pretty crap - I do it one way for work, another way for snaps)
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JonR
Well-known
Thanks for all comments. Have tried the camera today at my daughters graduation. Works fine even if it took some time to get used to the menues etc. The "ok" button is slightly small for my thumb so it will take some time to get used to it. This will for sure be a camera I will use a lot!
Jon R
Jon R