Inversion vs rotation for daylight tank development

It would appear some make rotation work. My opinion is the edges get more fresh developer replacement than canter with roration.

The instructions that came with it say use the twisty stick for first agitition ONLY.

I followed them and never had a problem.

Do not store with the cap on or it stretches out.
 
I invert, always have, with Paterson or metal tanks. Paterson is best but still dribbles a bit by the time I get to the fixer. Kitchen gloves to keep the chems off my skin.
 
Just want to add to the "Ilford method" of washing - for some 120 films (Tmax and Acros) I leave the film to stand for a few minutes in the wash water between each wash cycle. This helps remove the pinkness that in my experience does not wash out normally.

BTW I use an older Paterson tank usualliy for 120, and it leaks on the "Fix" but OK prior to that. My (newer) Paterson 35mm tank, with the full diameter lid, does not leak.
 
Inversion. Twirling can give uneven developing. Some peoplehere claim it works for them. Maybe it does, maybe they don't know what to look for, maybe some developers work ok with it and some don't. I've never gotten good results twirling the reels in Paterson tanks. Inversion always gives me good results, so long as I agitate the right way.

I've been playing with a video camera, and made a Youtube video showing how I agitate:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOUUO3dDLqA
 
I use inversion with this model if tank and it leaks, so use gloves May be this other model I don't have has used by somebody of you that don't report any leakage. When I washed with running water it was time and water consuming. Since I use Ilford method, all the procedure is shorter and results are excellent. The principle is progressive diluting of fixer until you have no residual.
I have both types of Paterson, the older one (smaller lid) leaks more. The newer large lid can be gentle pressed in the middle when put on to create a slight vacuum which in my experience eliminates leakage. The smaller lid won't, and the seal around between the tank and lid is too hard to prevent leakage.
 
Inversion. Twirling can give uneven developing. Some peoplehere claim it works for them. Maybe it does, maybe they don't know what to look for, maybe some developers work ok with it and some don't. I've never gotten good results twirling the reels in Paterson tanks. Inversion always gives me good results, so long as I agitate the right way.

I've been playing with a video camera, and made a Youtube video showing how I agitate:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOUUO3dDLqA

Nice video Chris. I was taught to invert a little slower then what you were showing but like you said what ever works best for each person.
Regards
clc
 
Nice video Chris. I was taught to invert a little slower then what you were showing but like you said what ever works best for each person.
Regards
clc

I'm glad you liked the video. Slower agitation will give less grain, but I can't seem to pull it off without getting uneven developing. If its working for you, you're lucky...stick with it!
 
I learned to develop using the Kodak instruction sheets. I have never used the little twirly stick since it wasn't shown in those instructions.

With my 2500 Jobo tanks I rotate by turning the entire tank. This is either done on the machine or by hand on the rollers. When I rotate I do it continually. No leakage.

With my Jobo 1500, my Patterson and my Arista tanks I invert fairly aggressively. The Patterson and the Arista tanks both leak a bit.

I primarily work with D76 one shot. But I also use HC110 and Rodinal for certain films. I never have noticed any uneven development with either tank rotation or tank inversion.
 
Bumping an old thread...

I use a 2-reel stainless tank. I usually only develop one roll at a time, but I use a second, empty reel (on top of the other) so that when I invert the tank, the reel with the film on it isn't slamming up and down, possibly over-agitating the film. A question arises: With 120 (or even 127), there isn't room for that second reel. Is inversion still OK? Perhaps I should do it more gently? For my brief foray into 127 I have been just slowly spinning the tank while held sideways, which seems to be fine, but I would rather be consistent than just trying random methods.

Or maybe I am worrying about something that makes no difference. Any thoughts?
 
I you read the instructions, rod is for first agitation only. Invert afterwards.

Rod will give good replenishment for edges, not so good in center. Therefore dark centers in prints.

The cap does not leak if you keep it off and non stretched when not in use.

Patterson is an impossible to screw up design if you have a good tank and follow instructions.

Stainless is fine too but you need to know how to load and drop the loaded reels into the tank already filled. DO NOT FILL DEVELOPER FROM THE TOP..
 
Bumping an old thread...

I use a 2-reel stainless tank. I usually only develop one roll at a time, but I use a second, empty reel (on top of the other) so that when I invert the tank, the reel with the film on it isn't slamming up and down, possibly over-agitating the film. A question arises: With 120 (or even 127), there isn't room for that second reel. Is inversion still OK? Perhaps I should do it more gently? For my brief foray into 127 I have been just slowly spinning the tank while held sideways, which seems to be fine, but I would rather be consistent than just trying random methods.

Or maybe I am worrying about something that makes no difference. Any thoughts?


Two-reel tanks are for two rolls of 35mm or one roll of 120. That's normal, and inversion is the proper way to agitate the tank with 120 film.
 
I have an old USA made daylight tank that is strictly rotation. It isn't watertight and if you invert it, everything in it spills out.
I believe that it is a 'Yankee' from comparing it to photographs I have seen on the web.
 
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