Is...it...real?

that's a IIIa, the post-war Contax. the Russian Kievs are copies of the pre-war Contax II and III.

so it's probably not a fake I guess.
 
that would be nice :)

I've been craving a sonnar 5cm, which seem to be going for 160-330.

They've been slipping away just a few bucks over my budget, and I have been looking at the bodies with lenses.

I figured if this is real the body alone might be worth at least 70USD, which brings the lens down ;)

Maybe I better try a roll or 2 first :)

xayraa33 said:
It is a real color dial Contax IIIa
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you are the best :)

didn't even know what a color dial is, but just read up. Yow! This baby cost as much as a chevy sedan in 1955! Too bad its not a II, haha. But it does seem a real prospect as a user.
 
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yep, it is real, a color dial Contax IIIa, produced between November 1956 and July 1957. Nice looking camera.
 
TY for all replies.

poured through the CZ forum here and now have a rough idea of what I am in for---maybe I will get lucky and its clean enough to shoot without a trip to the bank for CLA money.

What should I check before I try some tri-X ?

What is the simplest way to get that into digital format---maybe just scan the 4x6s?
 
uhoh7 said:
What should I check before I try some tri-X ?
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The meter, if you plan on using it.

Also go through all the shutter speeds, with the back off. On T, it should stay open until you move the shutter speed dial off T. On B, as long as you hold down the release. 1 sec is pretty easy to check by ear if you have a ticking clock nearby. Everything else should be progressively faster.

Rangefinder image should be aligned vertically and horizontally and should agree with the distance scale.

uhoh7 said:
What is the simplest way to get that into digital format---maybe just scan the 4x6s?
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Yes, but then you're limited by the quality of the prints you get.
 
The lens is older than the camera, as it is an uncoated Pre-war lens, but nevermind, it is a top notch lens, but it should be a bit softer than the coated version.
Watch the short shutter times, if the shutter opens properly!
 
You've probably picked this up in your research

You've probably picked this up in your research

Never change the shutter speed with the camera UNcocked. Plenty of advice to this affect on the web.

Advance film and Cock shutter first, then set shutter speed if you are changing it.
I have a nicely functioning Kiev Kneb.... probable date 1952 which seems it may have been built from actual Contax parts, which was done until parts from the transition to Kiev Arsenal ran out and were then made in Russia to assemble into the cameras.

My Kneb:
 
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^ Sorry, you're wrong. You're probably thinking of Leicas and Leica copies.

uhoh7, you can change the shutter speed either before or after winding. It makes no difference at all. This was one of the selling points of the Contax in competition to the Leica.
 
DC1030 said:
The lens is older than the camera, as it is an uncoated Pre-war lens, but nevermind, it is a top notch lens, but it should be a bit softer than the coated version.
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Really? I was thinking there was a good chance this lens has sold originally with the body.

But in the pics I could never quite see much detail--opton, jena or just zeiss--not that the ring is reliable.

I might end up with a J-3 afterall--not that that's so bad.

If it's a genuine pre-war uncoated sonnar I will be over the moon :)
 
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The lens serial number of 2187512 is consistent with Thiele's book of CZJ lenses, which shows this lens as part of a batch of 3000 5cm/1.5 Sonnars completed December 13, 1937. Your lens looks the same as several pre-WW2 Sonnars that I own- it has the typical heavy chrome finish of CZJ lenses, and does not resemble the J-3, which were in aluminum mounts
 
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dexdog said:
The lens serial number of 2187512 is consistent with Thiele's book of CZJ lenses, which shows this lens as part of a batch of 3000 5cm/1.5 Sonnars completed December 13, 1937. Your lens looks the same as several pre-WW2 Sonnars that I own- it has the typical heavy chrome finish of CZJ lenses, and does not resemble the J-3, which were in aluminum mounts
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Wow, could not be happier. Was ever so slightly disappointed at first at the thought of the fancy 1950's coatings.

If it makes it and has no horrible issues, it will be my first pre-war lens.

Thank you guys so much for taking the time to check it out :)
 
6262480213_fcec5fe935_z.jpg

Test roll with kodak ektachrome 400

First film I've shot since the 80s. Just scans of 4x6s

6270803842_4038b485bf_b.jpg


6270271731_6e4a920012_b.jpg


below...shutter sticking (@1200)?

6270274803_b1316bb8ae_b.jpg


6270272473_8948c0b911_b.jpg


and for comparision, here is the same lens on nex-5:

6270272035_54bf7fabc4_b.jpg


OK next shot which is it, cleaned up 35mm or nex-5 aps-c?
6270361755_0466a622c7_z.jpg


lens has issues:

6264115691_45564d916d_z.jpg
 
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And to think you were worried about it...

Congratulations, David

PS I can't use mine as often as I like but give it a work out every now and then. Meaning wind on shutter and fire at various speeds to keep them all sweet.
 
Shutter blanking at high speeds (typical of those Contax series, unfortunately, and sometimes very hard to fix, especially on "colour dial" bodies) and severe Canada balsam "golden droplets" in the lens rear group (the Canada balsam is drying up and getting brittle, leaving opaque golden colored powder between the elements instead of it as a solid transparency glue). This cannot be fixed and chances are that it's going to get worse later or sooner, causing heavy vignetting on the photos.

Not a terrific deal then.

Were it me I would think of sending it back to the seller asap. You can find a good working "black dial" IIIa with a cleaner 50 for that price.
 
Highway 61 said:
Shutter blanking at high speeds (typical of those Contax series, unfortunately, and sometimes very hard to fix, especially on "colour dial" bodies) and severe Canada balsam "golden droplets" in the lens rear group (the Canada balsam is drying up and getting brittle, leaving opaque golden colored powder between the elements instead of it as a solid transparency glue). This cannot be fixed and chances are that it's going to get worse later or sooner, causing heavy vignetting on the photos.

Not a terrific deal then.

Were it me I would think of sending it back to the seller asap. You can find a good working "black dial" IIIa with a cleaner 50 for that price.
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I sent him a note and asked for 100USD refund for CLA. Henry claims he can fix the seperation for 220USD. The glass is very clear other than this. We'll see what happens ;)

TY for input.
Charlie
 
Just goes to show it always pays to ask:

"Hello Charlie - Our sincere apologies for the circumstance. We were listing these cameras for a friend whose husband had collected them and were not aware of the lens separation issue as you described.

A refund of $ 100.00 + PP fees will be forwarded to your PayPal account"
 
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