bizarrius
the great
I have this leica. I don't even remember how i got it. when i was young i used to buy and snatch whatever i saw/liked.
how do i know if its real? can you tell from the pictures?
i am asking because i am thinking of actually sending it in for a CLA etc. if its a fake one then i wont bother.
it shoots like a real leica, it feels like one. the brassing is also sweet. the rangefinder is coupled well and really bright
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bnf4u2b1zavtici/AADGDls7RuWD7LVCF4A6mYeDa?dl=0
thanks in advance!
how do i know if its real? can you tell from the pictures?
i am asking because i am thinking of actually sending it in for a CLA etc. if its a fake one then i wont bother.
it shoots like a real leica, it feels like one. the brassing is also sweet. the rangefinder is coupled well and really bright
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bnf4u2b1zavtici/AADGDls7RuWD7LVCF4A6mYeDa?dl=0
thanks in advance!
BLKRCAT
75% Film
Looks like something that has been upgraded in the past.
Serial comes out as a IIIc from '46-'47
Serial comes out as a IIIc from '46-'47
Paul T.
Veteran
It's definitely not a dodgy Russian camera - none of the tell-tales like the triangular cam or distinctive VF window.
Archlich
Well-known
Looks genuine Leica to me, just it's not a IIIg which has easily discernible large finder and frame line illumination window.
bizarrius
the great
the name of the folder was in quick no-thought. i have searched the serial and comes up as a iiic. apologies there.
any 100% way to know if its real? i have a few zorkis and they feel NOTHING like this piece.
any 100% way to know if its real? i have a few zorkis and they feel NOTHING like this piece.
Robert Lai
Well-known
It a real Leica. Started as a IIIc, now converted to IIIF, black dial. Leica factory did these conversions when earlier cameras were sent for repairs.
Set the flash synchronizer to 2, and the shutter speed to 1/30 if you are using flash.
You need new covering, as the vulcanite is coming off. The chrome has brassed in many areas. Depending on how much you want to spend, you could have the chrome removed and a new paint job done at the time of your overhaul.
A IIIG has a raised top housing which has square corners, in order to accommodate a larger viewfinder, which has 50mm and 90mm frames inside. There is a separate little window to illuminate the framelines also.
Set the flash synchronizer to 2, and the shutter speed to 1/30 if you are using flash.
You need new covering, as the vulcanite is coming off. The chrome has brassed in many areas. Depending on how much you want to spend, you could have the chrome removed and a new paint job done at the time of your overhaul.
A IIIG has a raised top housing which has square corners, in order to accommodate a larger viewfinder, which has 50mm and 90mm frames inside. There is a separate little window to illuminate the framelines also.
Paul T.
Veteran
Zorkis and feds tend to havethe name of the folder was in quick no-thought. i have searched the serial and comes up as a iiic. apologies there.
any 100% way to know if its real? i have a few zorkis and they feel NOTHING like this piece.
1: a triangular cam in the lens opening. Yours is round.
2: they have a viewfinder window that bulges out with the top plate. It's very distinctive and the easiest way to spot. Again, yours has the Leica top plate.
Other items like the shutter button can look different too. Here's one guide on the differences:
http://www.l39sm.co.uk/leica-reid-fakes.php

bizarrius
the great
this is good news ! 
i am about to order a new leather now and i will start thinking as to where to send it for CLA etc.
how much can a cla cost and how much for the repaint?
thank you very much for your information
i am about to order a new leather now and i will start thinking as to where to send it for CLA etc.
how much can a cla cost and how much for the repaint?
thank you very much for your information
Robert Lai
Well-known
For service, it depends where your "house" is located.
If it is in the USA, then Don Goldberg is my usual man for Leica.
Leica will still service all the older Leicas (at very high prices).
I've never had repainting done, so I don't know who would do it in the US.
If you are in UK, or Europe, there are specialists there that the locals will have to tell you about.
If it is in the USA, then Don Goldberg is my usual man for Leica.
Leica will still service all the older Leicas (at very high prices).
I've never had repainting done, so I don't know who would do it in the US.
If you are in UK, or Europe, there are specialists there that the locals will have to tell you about.
Paul T.
Veteran
No need to repaint, which will be expensive and only make it less original.
This is a good source for Vulcanite:
http://www.aki-asahi.com/store/html/IIIcf/IIIcf.php
Youxin Ye did a good job of my M3, I'm sure there are other good techs.
http://www.yyecamera.com/about-me.html
This is a good source for Vulcanite:
http://www.aki-asahi.com/store/html/IIIcf/IIIcf.php
Youxin Ye did a good job of my M3, I'm sure there are other good techs.
http://www.yyecamera.com/about-me.html
bizarrius
the great
i forgot to say i am sorry.
im in europe so a european cla would be easier i think
im in europe so a european cla would be easier i think
David Hughes
David Hughes
Zorkis and feds tend to have
1: a triangular cam in the lens opening. Yours is round.
2: they have a viewfinder window that bulges out with the top plate. It's very distinctive and the easiest way to spot. Again, yours has the Leica top plate.
Other items like the shutter button can look different too. Here's one guide on the differences:
http://www.l39sm.co.uk/leica-reid-fakes.php
![]()
Hi,
The shutter button on the two FEDs show that they are pre-war ones. A pity they became fakes as the 1930's FEDs are worth more, especially if serviced* regularly, as they should be...
Regards, David
* Of course, regular servicing is needed by all cameras and FEDs and Zorkis can be a sweet as any other if not neglected.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Yours is a Leica IIIc, upgraded to a IIIf. Serial shows an early postwar camera, numbers started with 400xxx so it was pretty quick after WWII end. Chrome quality wasn't very good with early postwar cameras, at least yours is brassing, not flaking chrome!
For future reference on fake Leicas:
http://www.johanniels.com/camera-gear-blog-posts/leica/31-leica-true-or-fake
Happy shooting with your Leica, Bizarrius!
For future reference on fake Leicas:
http://www.johanniels.com/camera-gear-blog-posts/leica/31-leica-true-or-fake
Happy shooting with your Leica, Bizarrius!
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Nah. All Leicas are unreal.
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
rfaspen
[insert pithy phrase here]
OK, the camera is question is plenty real Leica. Its one of the later die-cast Leica's and not easily confused with the FSU-based fakes. You're really only going to have much difficulty with those fakes for the II and III.
This one is a conversion from a IIIc to a IIIf, something done at the Leica factory (people would send their camera back to Leica for the upgrade). Its a nice little camera. Worth getting a CLA for sure. Getting a new covering at the same time as the CLA is convenient and typical.
In Europe, I hear of CRR Luton and Malcolm Taylor. They're both in UK. I know there are others in other parts of Europe, but I can't remember any. I'm surprised Johan didn't recommend someone.
This one is a conversion from a IIIc to a IIIf, something done at the Leica factory (people would send their camera back to Leica for the upgrade). Its a nice little camera. Worth getting a CLA for sure. Getting a new covering at the same time as the CLA is convenient and typical.
In Europe, I hear of CRR Luton and Malcolm Taylor. They're both in UK. I know there are others in other parts of Europe, but I can't remember any. I'm surprised Johan didn't recommend someone.
rfaspen
[insert pithy phrase here]
BTW, I agree with David that many pre-war Fed (and Zorki?) are pretty little cameras of their own. And they can be just and smooth and pleasant as Leica. My Fed-1 Kombinat is one such camera. But....I don't think its Leica standardized (flange to film distance) which limits me to the one lens that came with it.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
It is so real, you ain't need (my) M3 for sure.
Share:
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.