Is there such a thing as a fast, sharp, flare-resistant *and* smooth-bokeh lens?

[hoot]

OK, here's a real challenge.

Find me a set of two lenses: 50mm and 35mm.

Both must be in LTM (leica thread/screw mount a.k.a. M39). They must share the same filter size AND the same lens shade. The lens shade must be of the twist-on or snap-on type; not one that screws into the filter thread. Both lenses must have aperture click-stops (as opposed to the Jupiter-8, for instance).

Each lens must be faster than f/2. They must be sharp (hi-res) by today's standards, and extremely flare-resistant when shooting a backlit scene. They must have enough aperture blades to yield pleasant bokeh.

Even with all the equipment I will be selling to fund these lenses, price is still a significant consideration. As a general guideline, $300 per lens would be painful, but possible. A battered lens barrel is not a problem, so long as the optics and mechanics are flawless.

If anyone manages to squeeze any serious recommendations into these tight guidelines, I'll be quite impressed. Thanks in advance, eh? 🙂

 

[Toby]

My personal opinion - these are both standard lenses why not spend $600 on a really kickass lens than $600 on two slightly inferior lenses -IMHO one really good lens will give you far more pleasure than two less good ones. I've never used one but maybe the 40/1.5 nokton would fit the bill?

 

[JoeFriday]

The new Zeiss lenses are supposed to be spectacular, very flare resistant and sharper than any sane person needs

not faster than f2, however.. and definitely not under $300 a lens

 

[Toby]

The new Zeiss lenses are supposed to be spectacular, very flare resistant and sharper than any sane person needs

not faster than f2, however.. and definitely not under $300 a lens

There aren't many sane people on this forum 😀

 

[Sonnar Brian]

The "bokeh" on the 40mm F2 Summicron is probably smoother than the 40mm F1.4 Nokton. I used the Summicron with some strong backlit subjects, and it did a good job. I would place it as a candidate.

 

[hoot]

Toby, that's good advice. I wonder how guesstimating a 40mm FOV would work with my M3's 50mm framelines... anyone got experience?

 

[taffer]

The lens shade must be of the twist-on or snap-on type; not one that screws into the filter thread.

Hey, I had some candidates but the sentence above turned them out.

Time to go back to the requirement analysis board ? 🙂

 

[hoot]

Brian - thanks. I want to get back to the low-light photography I used to do back when I used SLR (Nikon 50mm f/1.4 shot wide open). Is the bokeh on the Nokton f/1.4 noticably bad, or just less fantastic than the 'cron's?

 

[Sonnar Brian]

I Googled this:

http://www.pbase.com/juergenkook/bok_voigt_leica

I do not have the Nokton, I have considered getting one. The Bokeh is "Harsh", as it is in my Nikkor 5cm F1.4's. If I want smooth out of focus for cluttered backgrounds, I'd grab the 8.5cm f2 anyway.

The Nikkor 5cm F1,4:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/3204/c7nikkor5_swnga.jpg

the Nikkor 8.5cm F2:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/3204/C7NIK85.JPG

5cm F2 Type I Rigid Summicron:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/3204/summicron50a.jpg


I'll have to hook up my scanning computer for the 40mm Summi shots.

 

[Toby]

As per the m3's frame lines - my pentax 67 gives about 80 - 85% of the total image with a standard prism and with experience I've learned to guessimate extremely accurately. The thing to do is simple. Just practice with the lens and your visualisation will adjust to estimating correctly - the main thing is to limit yourself lenswise for a while if you buy a 40 use it almost exclusively for a month or so then it will be second nature

 

[JoeFriday]

I've been told to use the entire M3 viewfinder as 40mm field of view.. probably shouldn't have your main image too tight to the edge, tho

 

[hoot]

OK, I think I'm going to go with Toby's advice and narrow it down to a single 40mm lens instead of the other two lengths.

This pretty much narrows it down to the Nokton f/1.4 and the Rokkor (aka Summicron) f/2.

An Internet search seems to show an unequivocal disparagement for the Nokton's bokeh. On the other hand, I really could use that one extra full stop.

Decisions, decisions...

 

[JoeFriday]

both are nice.. but there is a noticeable difference in the bokeh.. choose wisely 😉

 

[Toby]

Trawl around the gallery. I've seen some images with the nokton that are really excellent. I think this bokeh thing is just so much hot air. If the image is strong enough no one gives a toss about small nuances in the bokeh. Remeber there are lots of people who know a lot about cameras and lenses but not so many who know about pictures.

 

[hoot]

Well, I put a WTB on the Nokton. Thanks, guys.

 

[rover]

Raising a closed fist to his mouth to buffer a cough,

Kahh(rokkor)hough

 

[taffer]

I own a 40/2 Summicron and agree that is a truly fantastic lens. That said, if I had the money, I'd probably grab a(nother) 40/2 CLE Rokkor for improved coatings (and for pure GAS, what else) PLUS a Nokton 40/1.4 SC or MC just out of curiosity.

And even if it is an f/2 lens, with moderately fast film and a low amount of daily caffeine, f/2 is fast enough 🙂

http://www.pbase.com/taffer/image/50461459.jpg

 

[aizan]

i'd look for the m-rokkor for the cle, just because it's called the "water lens". with a name like that, it's gotta be especially nice.

 

[hoot]

The problem with the Rokkor/Summicron is that I'd immediately get GAS for a Leica CL to go with it. OTOH, I could always sell my M3 to finance a CL...

Somebody shoot me! :bang:

 

[taffer]

BANG !

😀

Beware of the CL, it's addictive.