Is this "veiling" or poor exposure? Hmmm

A

alexnotalex

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Hi Folks,

I notice distant objects get kind of misty at infinity.

Is this "veiling"? and is there anything I can do to help it?
Or is it just underexposed a stop or so?

CanonP, Nippon Kogaku-H.C 5cm (Sonnar design) at f5.6 if my memory serves me...

4902219561_24e03f1311_b.jpg


Sincere thanks for any pointers,

best,

Alex
 
I am no specialist, but I think this blue/hazy-ness of distant subject are something to do with UV. And probably the picture is a bit overexposed. A good quality UV or Haze filter with -0.5 EV comp would do the trick. What do you think?
 
It is just a hazy weather so the farther are the object the more they loose contrast and colors. The reason is that mainly UV and blue light scatters on the haze (shift towards blu). I do not think that this is flare - that would be caused by the lens itself.
 
make it a multicoated B&W UV filter and a shade, and we're in business 🙂

i don't often shoot c-41 or anything, however, there is an MC 81A warming filter permanently attached to make skin tones more natural.
 
Thanks very much for your comments and advice. It really helps.

Lens had a Kood UV filter and a hood... Maybe it's just the grey sky and last light. Here are a couple more, same effect in the bridge, hairy pear looks ok though.


ten minutes later
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an hour earlier
4902286019_ea1ef528db_z.jpg


best,
Alex
 
Might try something like this, please accept my apology if my doing this bothers you.
 

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Just for clarity, "veiling flare" is flare that is created by the stray light in the camera lens. The effect shown in the above photos could be called "atmospheric flare" is it is cause by light scattering on the atmosphere (humid air in this case). The lens has no influence on this. UV filter should mitigate the effect somewhat but can not fully remove it.
 
Ranchu said:
Might try something like this, please accept my apology if my doing this bothers you.
Click to expand...

Au contraire, many thanks for taking the trouble to tweak it, and especially for showing how to do it with curves. I enjoy learning this stuff.
I slid the bottom slider in iphoto up to the right a bit and that seemed to help the overexposure.

Now I think I need some exposure comp in the incident lightmeter in my eye...

best,
Alex
 
Cool. What's happening is that I've increased the contrast and saturation in the mids to highlights by making the curve steeper there, difference is detail. There's no free lunch though, and we've lost the same amount in the mids to shadows, notice we've lost some detail in the lower part of the big tree. The best thing aside from a little less exposure in the camera might be to lower exposure/gain in the scanner. A little overexposure on a flat day is much better than under, and I think you did fine on your end.

🙂
 
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Thanks for the information and comments.

Can anyone recommend a good UV filter? or would a Haze filter be better? I often shoot overcast (rains a lot here) and notice this more and more. i read good and bad things about Hoya, B+W, Tiffen... and am getting more confused, not less.

These shots are with a UV filter, Kenko Digital marked on it, but still getting the blue haze effect at the back of many of the pics... look at the trees around the sky. I think the exposure's ok on this one.

Many thanks!

4907063294_ca42e3ff66_z.jpg
 
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Does the lens have a lot of heavy cleaning marks on it? That will make a difference for flare. Stripping the rest of the coating is hard work.

ALSO: shine a light through the lens and check for internal haze on the glass surfaces on each side of the aperture blades. That happened to three of my Nikkor 5cm F2's.

Otherwise- a Hood and a Skylight 1A or 1B filter would help. Hoya multi-coated 1B filters will warm the image a bit more than the 1A.
 
Brian Sweeney said:
Does the lens have a lot of heavy cleaning marks on it? That will make a difference for flare. Stripping the rest of the coating is hard work.

ALSO: shine a light through the lens and check for internal haze on the glass surfaces on each side of the aperture blades. That happened to three of my Nikkor 5cm F2's.

Otherwise- a Hood and a Skylight 1A or 1B filter would help. Hoya multi-coated 1B filters will warm the image a bit more than the 1A.
Click to expand...

thanks Brian, I already stripped and cleaned out the oily haze either sides of the blades, that made a huge difference. There is a mark on the outside of the front element visible only under certain angles i tried to photograph, I bet this is not helping...

4907583310_c00d9ec658.jpg

4907583720_1f7a7361fb_z.jpg
 
I used in Robot Royal my MGR-3x Robot Green filter and I noticed fog dissapear a lot in landscape, I have not pictures with to upload, but I use that filter and correct it. Hood helps too.
Regards.
 
Hooray after some gentle and scary rubbing with Colgate, the Smudge of Death has shrunk to a few tiny cleaning marks. Now, a better hood, a warming filter, and back to Denmark to reshoot. 🙂
 
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