Is your Yashica's explosure spot on? Mine is not !

[Sean Chan]

I have changed the pad of death on my GT last month and got my 30 dollars e-bay baby working again (seems to be anyway, photos came out okay) but I recently noticed that the exposure time is the same no matter what ASA setting I am using.

That’s how I tested / noticed it:

Under stable lighting environment, set ASA to 100 then point, adjust and select an aperture so that the slow light just came on, turn ASA setting to 400 and point at the same point again. the same aperture have the slow light came on as when it was set to 100.

Any idea what need fixing?

Another problem I am having is that if I point the camera at very bight light area and have the ‘over’ light comes on and then point the camera to a dark light area I won’t have the ‘low’ light on until I press the shutter release down at least 3mm more than when the ‘over; light is on. Is this normal?

Another funny thing is that the ‘low’ light hardly ever lights up when the aperture is set to F1.7.

 

[Socke]

Hm, I had silver oxyde batteries padded with lots of tinfoil in my GX so I wouldn't trust the meter at all.
With, very forgiving, Ilford XP2 it was fine and consistent.

 

[Sean Chan]

I am using the battery adpator kit from Yashica-guy.com

 

[derevaun]

Another problem I am having is that if I point the camera at very bight light area and have the ‘over’ light comes on and then point the camera to a dark light area I won’t have the ‘low’ light on until I press the shutter release down at least 3mm more than when the ‘over; light is on. Is this normal?

Another funny thing is that the ‘low’ light hardly ever lights up when the aperture is set to F1.7.

Both of these are probably normal if I'm understanding your description. The "low" light comes on (or not) lower in the press than the "over" light. At f/1.7, the lens is letting in a lot of light and can often use a shutter speed above 1/30.

 

[Aardvark Aallen]

Sean, go do a search for a manual. I think several of your questions are covered there. But not all of your questions. Check Yashica guy or Nakamura's site on photoethnography.

 

[Sean Chan]

Both of these are probably normal if I'm understanding your description. The "low" light comes on (or not) lower in the press than the "over" light. At f/1.7, the lens is letting in a lot of light and can often use a shutter speed above 1/30.

Yeah, I suppose they are nomral coz my frist roll came out ok, not perfect tho, generally they are a bit under-exposed.

Let me put it another way, I feel that the half-press position for triggering the red light and the orange light is not the same position thus if i point the camera at something very bright with apenture ring wide open and press directly to the position where the oragne light usually will come on if it is too dark, I won't be able to get a 'red' light to warn for over-explosure but that said the A-mode are working fine, its just the warning light is not that user friendly on my Yashica.

My real problem with this Yashica is that the ISA dial seems not working correctly as detailed above.

Hope someone can help me with it.

After my first roll with ISO400 film I noticed that photos came out generally a little bit under-explosed, I guess the ISO setting on the camera is now stuck at max all the time which is ISO500.

 

[chenick]

My real problem with this Yashica is that the ISA dial seems not working correctly as detailed above.

Hope someone can help me with it.

Look at the front of the camera above the lens - there is a a diamond shaped aperture for the meter, when you adjust the ISO/ASA dial this aperture should get larger or smaller. Purely mechanical as far as I know. Is this the case?

My GTN over/under lights come on and off at different positions too, I've learnt to pump the shutter to make sure all is OK

-Nick

 

[Sean Chan]

Look at the front of the camera above the lens - there is a a diamond shaped aperture for the meter, when you adjust the ISO/ASA dial this aperture should get larger or smaller. Purely mechanical as far as I know. Is this the case?

My GTN over/under lights come on and off at different positions too, I've learnt to pump the shutter to make sure all is OK

-Nick

Nick,

Thanks so much for you advise, can't wait till go off work and run home to look at the diamond on my GT ! hahaha!

May be it is not opening or closing after I opened the top to fix the POD.

Nice word to discribe the required action with the word 'PUMP'. I do that too all the time, a bit annoying but as long as it doesn't affect the results of the photo, I am happy with it.

 

[Sean Chan]

Let me investigate into this later on this evening.

Meanwhile, my Rollei 35 from the evilBay has just arrivied with slow shutter speed being a bit sticky and is now searching on the Internet for ways to get it fixed.

Any one here can help?

 

[Sean Chan]

Make sure you reinstalled the ASA dial correctly.
When behind the camera, turn the dial all the way CW. It should be pointing to asa 12.

After my investigation into the Cds opening part of the camera, i noticed that the blades are a bit sticky and it wouldn't spring back to small size after it has been pushed open by the dial.

Do I have to take it into parts and lube everything or do I have a way around it? After i use my hand to force it open and close 10 tens or so, it is a bit less sticky now.

I wonder what next?

 

[Sean Chan]

Don't lube the blades. Check to see what is hanging them up. The spring may have gone weak. Or the blades may be slightly bowed.

the black film thin plates of the opening itself are ok and smooth now after i removed the grease, but seems like the bronze thick balde/metal part that the dial acutally pushes when opening the dial setting is sticky and wouldn't start to travel after the dial's stoppper moved away when being turned, it will need my finger to give a push then it can spring all the way back to smallest closing size (while i keep it at the lowest ASA Setting

nmmm..........tricky............. :bang: :bang: :bang:

 

[Sean Chan]

There are two brass pieces. One with holes and one under it. Is it the one under that is not moving right? It is a crimped fit. If at some time someone forced it. It could be loose on the hub. You can replace this part if you are the calm type.🙂

not the circular ones, is the one that the circular one pushes so as to move and tricker the movements of the whole system to make the opening bigger that wouldn't spring back when the dial

for the time being i have set it to iso100 , i can change it up to iso 200 and 400 but then i won't be able to change down ...haha

I have a feeling I have to change the spring.

 

[rogprov]

There.s a scan of the full workshop manual for G series on my site http://www.provins.org.uk

 

[Sean Chan]

There.s a scan of the full workshop manual for G series on my site http://www.provins.org.uk

Handy stuff ! Thank you very much !

 

[atelier7]

I'm using a yashica guy battery adapter. Have a UV Haze (O) filter on with lens hood.
Most of my shots came up underexposed too. Should I have to compensate for the filter?
Or is there some technique I should apply to get the exposure right?

 

[Sean Chan]

You have to make compensation of the filter(s) you used by changing the ISO setting on your camera as it does not house a TTL type of meter.

Best thing you can do is shoot some photos without any filter to confirm if your meter is working correctly for you and make sure that there is nothing blocking the CDS opening on the camera while you take your shoots.