Ranchu
Veteran
Send it back, it wasn't that great a camera to begin with if mine was any indication. Ebay sucks, almost every seller is lying by omission or simply ignorant. If you get something usable, you're a rarity. Sorry, man.
lawnpotter
Well-known
Tom
Tom
I am sorry about your experience. I have only used KEH. I would like to use EBAY because of the selection but it appears to attract a lot of dishonest imoral sellers.
Tom
I am sorry about your experience. I have only used KEH. I would like to use EBAY because of the selection but it appears to attract a lot of dishonest imoral sellers.
Ken Smith
Why yes Ma'am - it folds
How do they wind up with a 99.4% positive rating?
Ratings are a "I'll scratch your back if you'll scratch mine. Noone wants neg feedback which is often the results of giving a buyer/seller bad feed back. Even though a buyer may not do anything wrong and get a bad deal - if that buyer leaves bad feedback - he'll get it in return. And with some sellers of some rare goodies - bad feedback can count you out of the bidding.
Very rarely have I gotten a bad purchase off Ebay. My last camera purchase was a Voigtlander Perkeo II - it was better than described. Quite pleased at the low end price I got it at. Have bought a Bessa R, Canon 7, Yashica GSN, Yashica Lynx, Mamiya M645 1000s, all from Ebay and recieved nice clean working cameras. I think part of the solution is taking your time, asking questions, and going over the item photos with a fine tooth comb.
oftheherd
Veteran
Ratings are a "I'll scratch your back if you'll scratch mine. Noone wants neg feedback which is often the results of giving a buyer/seller bad feed back. Even though a buyer may not do anything wrong and get a bad deal - if that buyer leaves bad feedback - he'll get it in return. And with some sellers of some rare goodies - bad feedback can count you out of the bidding.
Very rarely have I gotten a bad purchase off Ebay. My last camera purchase was a Voigtlander Perkeo II - it was better than described. Quite pleased at the low end price I got it at. Have bought a Bessa R, Canon 7, Yashica GSN, Yashica Lynx, Mamiya M645 1000s, all from Ebay and recieved nice clean working cameras. I think part of the solution is taking your time, asking questions, and going over the item photos with a fine tooth comb.
Ditto taking time and asking questions. If anything raises a flag with me, I back off. There will always be another. I too can say I usually get the deal I expect or better. My recent Contax 167mt is an example. Better than expected for a good price.
I also had a seller about 3 months ago whose description I didn't think matched well with what I got. I contacted the seller, explained politely what I was talking about, and asked what the suggested resolution would be. I was offered a reasonable discount and the money was refunded. There are some honest selllers.
But there are plenty of scoundrels and just simple knuckleheads that don't know what they are doing. One must use caution.
Sorry for your experience.
RichyD
Established
I've been tempted to get an Iskra but have held off so far. I have seen a few advertised and have missed probably one or two good ones. Most of the sellers do post numerous, large photos of the camera and you can get a good idea of cosmetic condition and other clues. One, for instance, looked very nice but there was a dent on the lens cover, another the lens appeared to be not centered and on another the struts did not look to fully open, and another described as clean has telltale signs of mould on the camera.
I've had problems last year on a number of purchases and had to return many. OK, but a pain if in your own country but expensive if international. Unless a camera has been fully described I usually just dismiss it but once or twice take a risk and I got very nice Franka with Xenar lens that way but had to return one from a dealer because the lens the lens was not square to the plate and you could see that the lens had been cleaned from fungus.
So I will generally only buy something fully described, look for clues in the photos for condition, and expect to have to give it some sort of cleaning and adjusting despite what the description says to bring it to the standard I expect.
I've had problems last year on a number of purchases and had to return many. OK, but a pain if in your own country but expensive if international. Unless a camera has been fully described I usually just dismiss it but once or twice take a risk and I got very nice Franka with Xenar lens that way but had to return one from a dealer because the lens the lens was not square to the plate and you could see that the lens had been cleaned from fungus.
So I will generally only buy something fully described, look for clues in the photos for condition, and expect to have to give it some sort of cleaning and adjusting despite what the description says to bring it to the standard I expect.
graywolf
Well-known
Well, in the past, usually things were fine. Grading something we all have a bit different idea of what something is, so I do not get upset if it is only a bit off. It is when it is so far off that it becomes an outright lie that I get upset.
I loaded a roll of film, and was just outside in the parking lot taking a few shots. Mostly things seems OK except for the ridiculously stiff focusing, a roughness in the focus movement, and a slight vertical offset in the RF. The counter seems to be working. I will need to develop that roll and see what the negatives tell me. Then I will contact the seller and explain the stuff that is bothering me, and see what he says.
The camera is bigger and heavier than I expected. I have to take off my glasses to see anywhere near the edges of the viewfinder; and, of course, I can see nothing but blobs without my glassed. It seems easy to hold steady.
I loaded a roll of film, and was just outside in the parking lot taking a few shots. Mostly things seems OK except for the ridiculously stiff focusing, a roughness in the focus movement, and a slight vertical offset in the RF. The counter seems to be working. I will need to develop that roll and see what the negatives tell me. Then I will contact the seller and explain the stuff that is bothering me, and see what he says.
The camera is bigger and heavier than I expected. I have to take off my glasses to see anywhere near the edges of the viewfinder; and, of course, I can see nothing but blobs without my glassed. It seems easy to hold steady.
VictorM.
Well-known
Here's an old Iskra thread that describes problems and fixes: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13574&highlight=iskra+light+leaks
t6un
Established
Graywolf, if you decide to keep the camera and still get problems with film's "start" sensor, I think Ihave a better and much less destructive solution than a red window:
http://snahvu.blogspot.com/2010/03/about-possibility-to-convert-iskra.html
As for my camera, I later also found some nasty light leaks from where the central cast aluminium box is connected to the sides. After fixing that it has really been a fantastic camera.
Good luck with your "Iskra"
http://snahvu.blogspot.com/2010/03/about-possibility-to-convert-iskra.html
As for my camera, I later also found some nasty light leaks from where the central cast aluminium box is connected to the sides. After fixing that it has really been a fantastic camera.
Good luck with your "Iskra"
Last edited:
Steve M.
Veteran
I've seen some stellar shots from these, but I've owned my last Russian camera. Lenses, yes. Cameras, no.
I bought an Iskra from Fedka and hated nearly everything about it. The locked shutter/aperture controls, the poorly fitting back, the wind on w/ film that was similar to grinding a pepper mill, and the overall lack of any quality control. Things on it were just too poorly finished for me. Fedka took it back and agreed that the quality was something people either got on with, or didn't. If you can live w/ all that, as well as probably having to chase down some light leaks here and there, then you can get wonderful photos from them. I can't.
I bought an Iskra from Fedka and hated nearly everything about it. The locked shutter/aperture controls, the poorly fitting back, the wind on w/ film that was similar to grinding a pepper mill, and the overall lack of any quality control. Things on it were just too poorly finished for me. Fedka took it back and agreed that the quality was something people either got on with, or didn't. If you can live w/ all that, as well as probably having to chase down some light leaks here and there, then you can get wonderful photos from them. I can't.
graywolf
Well-known
Back from the camera club meeting.
First, thank you to the guys providing links to info. Second, I intend to finish that roll of film tomorrow and process it. Then I will see what I see.
As to handling, I kind of like everything so far except the focusing. That has to be a service problem, it feels just like old dried out lube with hardened lumps in it. If that can be sorted out, I think I will like the camera in general.
Of course, there may be other, not so noticeable problems, that will show up when I develop the film. Unless I get overlapping frames, I should have no problems with the film counter. I had to wind and wind and wind it until it stopped with (1) showing. Then it takes about a turn and stops with the next number showing. I am using film with a thick old fashioned base (deliberately, so it will work with mechanical counters, as my Hapo 66E has one too).
My only real gripe so far is that the seller claimed the camera had a fresh CLA. And my gripe with that is that it will cost money, and time if I have to send it back. I was willing to give up good looks to have one that worked properly. If I got bad looks, and not working Properly, I am going to be angry as heck.
As for looks I have, in the back of my mind, a picture of it with the top and bottom plates black powder coated and black pigskin replacing the Vulcanite. I have the pigskin, and there is a guy in town who powder coats small items. But before that can happen I have to have a properly working camera. Since I have read posts by guys who claim their camera works properly, I have to believe that a properly serviced Iskra will do so.
First, thank you to the guys providing links to info. Second, I intend to finish that roll of film tomorrow and process it. Then I will see what I see.
As to handling, I kind of like everything so far except the focusing. That has to be a service problem, it feels just like old dried out lube with hardened lumps in it. If that can be sorted out, I think I will like the camera in general.
Of course, there may be other, not so noticeable problems, that will show up when I develop the film. Unless I get overlapping frames, I should have no problems with the film counter. I had to wind and wind and wind it until it stopped with (1) showing. Then it takes about a turn and stops with the next number showing. I am using film with a thick old fashioned base (deliberately, so it will work with mechanical counters, as my Hapo 66E has one too).
My only real gripe so far is that the seller claimed the camera had a fresh CLA. And my gripe with that is that it will cost money, and time if I have to send it back. I was willing to give up good looks to have one that worked properly. If I got bad looks, and not working Properly, I am going to be angry as heck.
As for looks I have, in the back of my mind, a picture of it with the top and bottom plates black powder coated and black pigskin replacing the Vulcanite. I have the pigskin, and there is a guy in town who powder coats small items. But before that can happen I have to have a properly working camera. Since I have read posts by guys who claim their camera works properly, I have to believe that a properly serviced Iskra will do so.
Ernst Dinkla
Well-known
As for looks I have, in the back of my mind, a picture of it with the top and bottom plates black powder coated and black pigskin replacing the Vulcanite. I have the pigskin, and there is a guy in town who powder coats small items. But before that can happen I have to have a properly working camera. Since I have read posts by guys who claim their camera works properly, I have to believe that a properly serviced Iskra will do so.
It is not black but I like the skin I gave it. Small drops of oil in the focusing helicoil and turning it back and forward did wonders on my Iskra, bought without a CLA.
I cleaned the lens and rangefinder part. Added a -3 lens in the eyepiece from the inside. Later on I noticed a site with pictures of a disassembled Iskra somewhere.
http://www.pigment-print.com/Fotografica/Iskra/target0.html
met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst Dinkla
New: Spectral plots of +250 inkjet papers:
http://www.pigment-print.com/spectralplots/spectrumviz_1.htm
Bill58
Native Texan
Graywolf--you probably know this, but powder coating is super thick and cannot be used on any mating suface!!!!!! Otherwise, it's great.
graywolf
Well-known
It is not black but I like the skin I gave it. Small drops of oil in the focusing helicoil and turning it back and forward did wonders on my Iskra, bought without a CLA.
I cleaned the lens and rangefinder part. Added a -3 lens in the eyepiece from the inside. Later on I noticed a site with pictures of a disassembled Iskra somewhere.
http://www.pigment-print.com/Fotografica/Iskra/target0.html
Very pretty. The diopter lens, is something I shall have to look into.
Last edited:
t6un
Established
In regard to eye relief, the actual rangefinder in the Iskra is pretty good. What's small is the peephole in the top cover. This can be easily changed if you are a tinkerer. I widened it with a hacksaw, and put in a brass frame that actually is a gear from Fed-3
It happened to have the same thread inside as the Leica M eyepiece, so maybe one day I can try it with a magnifier too.

Ernst Dinkla
Well-known
Very pretty. The diopter lens, is something I shall have to look into.
No pun intended I guess
I used some old acrylic -3 glasses, jigsaw to make the rough cylinder and then shaping it further to fit in the small tube of the eye piece. I do not wear contact lenses and with glasses you scratch them on the eye piece and it still doesn't give enough view. This solution works well for me.
BTW, you can keep both eyes open with an Iskra. At least I can. Must be around 1:1 scaling. Sure my other eye isn't that sharp then.
Ernst Dinkla
Last edited:
graywolf
Well-known
Thank you t6un, I will have to look into that.
I have run that roll of film through, although not yet developed it. It ran smoothly worked just like it should.
After removing that roll, I took the open camera out in the sunshine and looked it over paying especial attention to what was going on with the helical. It certainly not old grease causing the problem, the helical has very little, but fresh, grease in it. There are a few brass filings inside the camera, maybe one of them got down inside the helical, wiping it down smoothed the focus up, but it is still stiff. I am beginning to think a bit more grease is what is needed.
Anyway, the camera shows signs that it had been properly serviced. So, the seller was honest about than. There is fresh sealant around where the bellows meets the film mask, so it looks like a fairly thorough job.
Some photos of the camera taken by simply holding the digital in macro mode with my elbows on the arms of the desk chair:
I have run that roll of film through, although not yet developed it. It ran smoothly worked just like it should.
After removing that roll, I took the open camera out in the sunshine and looked it over paying especial attention to what was going on with the helical. It certainly not old grease causing the problem, the helical has very little, but fresh, grease in it. There are a few brass filings inside the camera, maybe one of them got down inside the helical, wiping it down smoothed the focus up, but it is still stiff. I am beginning to think a bit more grease is what is needed.
Anyway, the camera shows signs that it had been properly serviced. So, the seller was honest about than. There is fresh sealant around where the bellows meets the film mask, so it looks like a fairly thorough job.
Some photos of the camera taken by simply holding the digital in macro mode with my elbows on the arms of the desk chair:




t6un
Established
Hi, your camera is in much better condition than mine was. I'm glad the film counter works.
The link that VictorM gave gives a plausible reason for focus stiffness: the steel plate inside the bellows is stronger than the brass front standard. Now, if the edges of the bellows that are pressed between them are not absolutely flat and the four screws inside the bellows are tightened, then the front standard becomes bent and will hamper the focus movement.
Easy check: loosen the 4 screws around the rear lens element by 1/4th or so of a turn. If the focusing gets easier, you have found the fault. Permanent repair probably involves some work with the bellows, but as a temporary solution you could now leave the screws as they are and just fix their heads with drops of glue.
The link that VictorM gave gives a plausible reason for focus stiffness: the steel plate inside the bellows is stronger than the brass front standard. Now, if the edges of the bellows that are pressed between them are not absolutely flat and the four screws inside the bellows are tightened, then the front standard becomes bent and will hamper the focus movement.
Easy check: loosen the 4 screws around the rear lens element by 1/4th or so of a turn. If the focusing gets easier, you have found the fault. Permanent repair probably involves some work with the bellows, but as a temporary solution you could now leave the screws as they are and just fix their heads with drops of glue.
Last edited:
NickTrop
Veteran
Wonderful camera, sold mine a year ago to finance other gear. Somewhat regret it but I moved away from medium format. However, I did need to send it to FSU for repair upon receipt... That person no longer services them. Later I took it to Certo 6 for another repair (simple mechanical) who did a fine job. The camera later developed a frustrating light leak that drove me nuts, simple solution found here on RFF.
Not "IF" but "When" your Iskra develops this light leak, check out this thread:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58597
It's easily fixed completely DIY but it's in a very unusual place...
A working Iskra is a special camera. I enjoyed mine while I owned it.
Not "IF" but "When" your Iskra develops this light leak, check out this thread:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58597
It's easily fixed completely DIY but it's in a very unusual place...
A working Iskra is a special camera. I enjoyed mine while I owned it.
graywolf
Well-known
Well, it looks better in the photos. I will check on those screws.
Now, to the nitty gritty:
Now that is a long photo! Frame spacing is great. The 1st to 2nd is a bit wide, but the rest of them are about as even as I have seen, even compared to my old (wish I still had it) Rolleiflex 2.8E2.
No immediate sign of light leaks either. At this point, I would say, that except for that focusing thing the camera is exactly as advertised. Tomorrow, I will check out the negative on the light table with a loupe, but they are looking good so far. In the mean time I will contact the seller about the focusing.
I am not as unhappy as I was...
Now, to the nitty gritty:

Now that is a long photo! Frame spacing is great. The 1st to 2nd is a bit wide, but the rest of them are about as even as I have seen, even compared to my old (wish I still had it) Rolleiflex 2.8E2.
No immediate sign of light leaks either. At this point, I would say, that except for that focusing thing the camera is exactly as advertised. Tomorrow, I will check out the negative on the light table with a loupe, but they are looking good so far. In the mean time I will contact the seller about the focusing.
I am not as unhappy as I was...
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Thank you t6un, I will have to look into that.
I have run that roll of film through, although not yet developed it. It ran smoothly worked just like it should.
After removing that roll, I took the open camera out in the sunshine and looked it over paying especial attention to what was going on with the helical. It certainly not old grease causing the problem, the helical has very little, but fresh, grease in it. There are a few brass filings inside the camera, maybe one of them got down inside the helical, wiping it down smoothed the focus up, but it is still stiff. I am beginning to think a bit more grease is what is needed.
Anyway, the camera shows signs that it had been properly serviced. So, the seller was honest about than. There is fresh sealant around where the bellows meets the film mask, so it looks like a fairly thorough job.
Some photos of the camera taken by simply holding the digital in macro mode with my elbows on the arms of the desk chair:
![]()
As a matter of interest I discovered with my Iskra that no matter how well the helical is lubed focusing can still be tight if these four screws in the back are over tensioned. I backed mine off a little and the difference was remarkable!
Share:
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.