I've gone and bought an Olympus.

[kuzano]

Yes...

Yes...

Can you still get focusing screens for these?

Found relatively often on eBay.... even new. Also, check with Jon Hermanson at
Zuiko.com.... would not be surprised if he has focus screens.

The viewfinder on the OM-1 is amazing. However, I often wonder if KatzEye makes a screen for the OM-1 with their OptiBrite treatment?

 

[sreed2006]

It's an OM-1n, with a 50mm lens (Sorry, not sure which Zuiko iteration it is) for $150.00 from my local full-service camera store. This is a first for me. I want a small 3-M camera for B/W photography, and this one caught my eye. It's heavily brassed, so I take that to mean it was well-loved by its former owner(s). I'm looking forward to taking it out for a spin next week. Do you other Olympus owners have any words of wisdom about this camera?

Thanks to all who reply.

With best regards.

Pfreddee(Stephen)

PS. A 3-M camera is, of course, a metal, mechanical, manual camera.

It takes a few rolls, but as you gain experience with the camera, you will pick up how the match-needle meter works. For backlit portraits, overexpose by a stop to a stop-and-a-half, because the meter picks up more backlighting than it should. With lots of bright sky in the frame, but important details on the ground, do the same. The needle does not always have to be centered between + and -. It won't take long to get a good feel for how the meter works.

After you load a new roll of film into the camera, and before you close the back, rewind until the slack is out of the film in the canister. Make sure that the sprocket teeth are engaged with the holes in the film. Close the door. Then leave the lever on the rewind knob out while you advance the film a frame, so you can easily see that the rewind knob is turning. If the rewind knob is tight, but the film is not advancing, open the back and reload the film on the take-up side. I've never had trouble with film not advancing on an OM-1, but have with OM-2 and OM-4T cameras. It can be pretty frustrating to take 38 great pictures - and have nothing on the film at all.

The sooner you get the film developed, the better you will recall how you took each picture, and the quicker you will learn how the camera works.

If you use the camera on a tripod, hold onto the camera while taking a picture to reduce vibration and get sharper images. For the sharpest images, use the mirror lockup.

If the viewfinder is very dark, let the mirror down.

That'll get you going.

 

[csxcnj]

A couple of weeks ago I got two OM-2S Programs , one OM-1, three 50mm (one 1.4 and two 1.8's) one 28/3.5, one 100/3.5, one 35-70/4 and one 300/3:5 from a neighbor who was cleaning out his house. "hey Bob, you want this old gear? Take it or I'll give it away

I just put the first few rolls shot on these in for development. I'll post a few when I get them back.

I've purchased a 35/f2.8 and am looking for a lens hood, so far with no luck. If anyone has a spare for sale let me know.

cheers, Bob

 

[zuiko85]

I just put the first few rolls shot on these in for development. I'll post a few when I get them back.

I've purchased a 35/f2.8 and am looking for a lens hood, so far with no luck. If anyone has a spare for sale let me know.

cheers, Bob

Check out e-bay seller "heavystar" (without the quotes).
I have purchased several of his Chinese made metal hoods and they are excellent quality. Just search for '49mm hood' on his e-bay store.

 

[jajong]

Bob, if you have hoods for the 50s don't look further: you can use a 50's hood on your 35. The 50's hood is also for the 35 2.8 .

Cheers,
Jan

 

[csxcnj]

Bob, if you have hoods for the 50s don't look further: you can use a 50's hood on your 35. The 50's hood is also for the 35 2.8 .

Cheers,
Jan

I have three 50 hoods. Thanks!

I really LOVE these cameras. I have a lot of the Nikon F cameras and really enjoy them and will keep using them, but there is just something about the Oly's.

I can't put my finger on it so some days of side by side shooting are coming up to see if I can figure out why the Oly's grab me the way they do.

Bob

 

[Steve Bellayr]

Caution: OM-1 does not take modern batteries. It used the old Mercury battery. You will get meter readings with a new battery but under reduced light situations the meter will be way off. You will need a criscam MR-9 converter. The OM-2 does not need the converter.

 

[csxcnj]

Caution: OM-1 does not take modern batteries. It used the old Mercury battery. You will get meter readings with a new battery but under reduced light situations the meter will be way off. You will need a criscam MR-9 converter. The OM-2 does not need the converter.

Already done that but thanks for the heads up

Bob

 

[Range-rover]

I just got another OM-1n in black from England and the meter works, I pick
up some 1.4 volt zinc air batteries and made a adapter with female RCA
jacks insulator, I just made the hole just big enough that it slides tightly
on and dropped it in. I compared it with my OM4 and the matched up well,
so I tried it out today. I read on other threads that the 1.4 volt zinc air
are pretty good match so will see.

Range

 

[Noll]

no problems with zinc air batteries here. I usually get 3-6 months out of one and have even shot slide film with good results.

 

[Range-rover]

That sounds great, I could only find 1.4 volts, I wonder if there's 1.35 volts
somewhere.

Range

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

Going from 1.35 to 1.4 adds about 3 maybe 4% and the latitude of film, even slide film is far wider than that, surely?

Anyway, there's little and expensive adapters to give you 1.35v. The MR-9 adapter and a silver oxide 386 will replace the PX 625 and the MR-44 and a 392 replaces the PX 675.

But I had my OM-1 adapted for SR 44's at the last check-up repair session.

Regards, David

 

[alphonse2501]

zinc-air 675 battery is about the same size of today's LR/SR44 and most of drug store sells with hearing aid batteries. Get a adapter, a little adjustment and then you (probably) will no needs 675 size battery.