J-3 on Bessa R in bad need of collimination

gb hill

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I have a 1963 J-3 and the other week I tried it on the Bessa R. I have this to say for the J-3. When they are off, they are way off. At least this one is. Notice the first photo the distance is way off. The second photo is in focus at close distance. Look at the doll at right. I had the focus on my reflection in the mirror in the cabinet which is way blurred. The third is a close up at 1.5. It is way off. I have both Kim's and Brians instructions on how to colliminate but my question is, Where do you find the shims to do this? I guess this may be my project over the holidays, but I am really not looking foward to it.
 

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Jan: I haven't PM'ed Kim or Brian. I'm hoping they will see this and answer the question for anyone needing info will know. If I don't get a response I may do so.
 
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With the number of lenses I have done, I do have a very limited supply of "spares" Other than that I make them. It depends on how thick they need to be but I use either thin brass sheet and cut them or use copper wire shaped and soldered into a ring and them flattened if need be. I do have the advantage that I have been making etched brass and other metal model locomotives and other rolling stock for about 30 years so I have a good range of tools/materials.

Kim
 
Luck has it that I work at a bulk lubricants distribution company and there is plenty of junk lying around. Time to pay a visit to the fellow who rebuilds the pumps I suppose. The copper wire will work! That sounds good I can do that,
 
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I had a batch of 3 unused black ones from Siberia that were as near perfect as you can get. The yak spit grease had gone hard as usual but optically there were fantastic. Others have been very close. The most usual case is that the inf focus is fine but the they back focus about 10cms wide open and close up. Other are real kitchen bodgit nightmares. I suspect the first port of call on yours is the check the focus mount. It could well be that someone has tried to lube it and put it back togeter incorrectly. Then check the lens elements are mounted correctly. Having done that, set the Inf focus and then check the close focus.

Kim
 
That's interesting, Kim. It seems that's the opposite of what would be expected from the apparent Soviet vs. Leitz discrepancy in the definition of a "normal" lens (which defines the relationship between a single-helix lens and the rangefinder). I'm going on what Robert Ludwig said about his tests of Soviet lenses on Leica-standard bodies as quoted in Dante Stella's page on the subject:

The contention concerning Soviet 39mm rangefinder lenses supported by my experiment is the following: "At an indicated lens distance setting of 1.5 meters, the rearward extension of the cam coupling ring with respect to the lens mounting flange of each of my collection of more than 23 39mm Soviet rangefinder lenses that will mount on my Leicas is slightly less than that of a typical Leica or Leica compatible Canon, Angenieux, or Nikkor lens. As a consequence, when used on a camera calibrated for a typical Leitz or Leitz compatible lens (whether German, Japanese, or Soviet), to achieve an indicated lens distance setting of 1.5 meters for a subject at a distance of 1.5 meters it is necessary to focus on an object roughly 2.5 inches behind the desired point of focus (i.e., subject)."

But I readily confess that I get mixed up every time I think it through. Moreover, I tried replicating Mr. Ludwig's experiment with a few of my own lenses and bodies, Soviet and otherwise, and got inconsistent results. (I also discovered I had some very badly collimated lenses!)

I didn't include my J-3 in those tests, but I did try it on my Canon 7 after carefully adjusting the rangefinder using Canon lenses and it seemed to focus surprisingly well at 1.5 and 3 meters. I'm counting myself lucky.
 
Brian has had more experience of J3's than I have. However, I have yet to come across a J9 that front focussed. Some have been very close but all those that needed adjusting were back focussing. In other words the actual focal length was slightly too long for the cam action. However, Robert Ludwig's words are a little ambiguous. Furthermore, to my mind and I stress it is only my opinion, not only are there several weaknesses in his test but the results are written up in a way which many people misread.

Firstly, the test seems to be more about whether you can use an FSU body with "standard" lenses i.e. Leica, Canon and others. As far as the lenses are concerned, I don't think his tests are conclusive. He used only 23 lenses of different sorts. Not surprisingly, he found the least problem on the J12. Not only is this of moderate aperture but has a greater depth of field. In any case, as the depth of focus is less the wider the angle of the lens, the film plane/flange distance is likely to be more critical than the caming where the depth of field is more likely to cover it. He doesn't state the source of the lenses. Are these from an average FSU seller and what is their history? Have they been subjected to "kitchen" repairs or are they as they came out the factory? In the end you end up with a relatively small sample of uncertain lenses.

Next, think about the way you or most people focus an RF. Ignoring the Bessa L (which is not a rangefinder 😉 ), I doubt anybody takes a steel tape measure out to measure the distance but uses the RF. If you removed to distance scale it would have little effect on most people unless they were trying to calculate DOF or use flash. Therefore the accuracy of the engraved distance scale is not important. As he says to achieve an indicated lens distance setting you need to measure to a point behind the subject. However if you use the RF, this is not the same thing. Many people that have found focus problems and sent me messages asking for advice, first get out the tape measure because of this. Indeed I have had several messages where as far as using the RF is concerned, the lens works well and they are getting good results using the RF. However, they are worried because it doesn't match with their tape measure!

I am not an optical engineer nor am I a camera tech. I have "sorted" a number of J3's though not as many as Brian. I have done quite a few more J9's, certainly more than were "tested" in the link below. I would not call my results empirical by a long shot but I have reached several conclusions which I am happy with.

The J3's I referred to earlier probably came from a "lost" supply that had been discovered. As such they had never been sold or "allocated". Unless you can find something like that (hen's teeth), you are better off staying away from the pristine examples. They are most likely pristine for a reason. To that end, there may well have been some QC issues especially with Friday afternoon lenses. If your lens is full of Yak spit and stiff and notchy to focus, it could be a good thing. It means it is less likely someone has been tampering with it. We are talking about fractions of a mm here. If you take a J9 apart or look at the pictures in my guide, you will see that one of the helix is very coarse. Due to the way the helix has 4 start points and because there are guide slots on both sides, it is easy to put the focus mech back together 180 deg out. This will change the caming. Take it apart again, re-grease it with a different amount of grease and again the caming can change. I have seen all sorts of lube used. If all the lenses back focussed by the same amount, it would be easy to just give simple directions like take x amount off y shim. In reality I don't find this works. If it were purely due to Contax/Leica differences then they would all be out the same. I haven't found this to be the case. In general, there is a tendency for back focus issues with the J9 that becomes more apparent on the M8 and especially the RD1. However the amount varies. I believe, again purely on my experience is that the difference between the Leica and Contax focal length for the "50" lens is a red herring. It is only important if the cam is directly connected to the lens group as is the case with the Industars and most of the J8s. Once you introduce a separate helix/mech for the lens group and the cam, the design focal length of the lens does not matter. If not, you wouldn't be able the range couple lenses from 21mm up to 135mm and beyond. Both the J3 and the J9 (and one type of J8) have a separate helix for the cam. As the actual focus mech on the Contax and the LTM is so different, I can't see that the fact that the Jupiters are based on Zeiss Sonnar designs is the root cause.

Kim


Kim
 
Kim Coxon said:
I had a batch of 3 unused black ones from Siberia that were as near perfect as you can get. The yak spit grease had gone hard as usual but optically there were fantastic. Others have been very close. The most usual case is that the inf focus is fine but the they back focus about 10cms wide open and close up. Other are real kitchen bodgit nightmares. I suspect the first port of call on yours is the check the focus mount. It could well be that someone has tried to lube it and put it back togeter incorrectly. Then check the lens elements are mounted correctly. Having done that, set the Inf focus and then check the close focus.

Kim

I unscrewed the lense and was suprised to find how easy it was to loosen. It was supprisingly clean inside which means it has probably been apart before. By first visual inspection I don't see anything out of the ordinary, but this is also the first lense that I have delved into. Earlier today I took my Bessa R and a I-61 lense (which takes good pictures) and focused on a object a short distance away. The I-61 read around 4 meters. Standing at same spot I focused my J-3 and it read around 3 meters. I then took a I-50 and it agreed with the I-61 on the bessa R.
Standing outside I focused my J-3 on a far distant subject at infinity and all the marks lined up perfect. I don't know what this means as why the focus is so far off. Maybe some of you guys know.
 
First step:

Set the lens to infinity. Look through the finder at a far distant object. Does the RF patch line up?

If not, the focus unit is out and needs to be sorted first.

If it does second step:
Take a picture or use an old focus screen and lupe with the back open. Is the far distant object in focus?

If yes, the main shims are correct and so to step three: (Having seen your pictures, I doubt you will get this far)
Use a focus chart or similar at 45deg. Focus on the middle. where does it actually focus on the film or ground glass screen.

You need to sort each problem in turn or you will make things worse.

Kim
 
The optics module is out too far from the film, which is why the actual focus is in front of what the RF indicates. Is there one shim in the lens, or a couple? Is the variable stand-off ring all the way on? How thick is the shim? I've had a couple like this.

If you can, get a close-up of the optics module with the shim on it.
 
Brian Sweeney said:
The optics module is out too far from the film, which is why the actual focus is in front of what the RF indicates. Is there one shim in the lens, or a couple? Is the variable stand-off ring all the way on? How thick is the shim? I've had a couple like this.

If you can, get a close-up of the optics module with the shim on it.

It has one shim. As to how thick it is measuring on a tape measure it's a 16th of an inch thick. What does the veriable stand off ring look like? I'll try and get my wifes digital camera later.
 
The shim sits on a ring that is held in place with two set screws. You can back of the screws and use it for fine adjustments. If it is tightened in all the way, it will not help you. If it is "out", ie standing the module off from the focus mount, you can undo the screws and screw the ring back in. You want to get the optics module closer to the film.

The second cause could be that the helical is misthreaded. I had this problem on one lens. The error was much bigger than the one you are showing.

1/16th of an inch is ~1.5mm. I've seen J-3's with shims of 0.5mm and others up past 2mm. I think 1mm will get you into the ballpark with the error that you are showing.
 
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Brian Sweeney said:
The shim sits on a ring that is held in place with two set screws. You can back of the screws and use it for fine adjustments. If it is tightened in all the way, it will not help you. If it is "out", ie standing the module off from the focus mount, you can undo the screws and screw the ring back in. You want to get the optics module closer to the film.

The second cause could be that the helical is misthreaded. I had this problem on one lens. The error was much bigger than the one you are showing.

1/16th of an inch is ~1.5mm. I've seen J-3's with shims of 0.5mm and others up past 2mm. I think 1mm will get you into the ballpark with the error that you are showing.

I now understand what you mean by the variable standoff ring, and yes it is flush with the focus mount. I will try & form a 1mm shim and see how close that gets me.

Thanks gb
 
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