I recently picked up a 1958 J-9 in LTM, the seller letting me know the focus was off. From Kim Coxon, I know that the J-9 has two shims: the primary shim to adjust standoff of the optics module in the focus mount, and a secondary shim to set the stand-off between the front and rear groups. The secondary shim allows the focal length of the lens to be changed. I've done this on a couple of J-3's, but it usually is not required.
J-9 at Infinity, @F4.
Nikkor 8.5cm f2 at Infinity, @F4.
At F4 and infinity, the performance is equal to the Nikkor that cost 6x as much money.
At Infinity, and at some distance down to 3m or so, the focus on this lens is good. Close-up, it focuses behind the RF.
Close-up, at F2, focus is several inches behind the RF:
The optics are too close to the film plane to focus correctly. On a J-3, I would adjust the main shim to optimize for close-up and wide-open. Infinity is usually good, at worst stop down a little to get the Sonnar shift in your favor.
The Nikkor 8.5cm F2, wide-open and close-up. Focus is spot-on. No adjustments were required on this lens, thrown on my Canon P.
I'm going to adjust the lens, and will report back to this thread with results. It will be a while. Another reason to buy an M9.... adjusting this $60 J-9.
J-9 at Infinity, @F4.
Nikkor 8.5cm f2 at Infinity, @F4.
At F4 and infinity, the performance is equal to the Nikkor that cost 6x as much money.
At Infinity, and at some distance down to 3m or so, the focus on this lens is good. Close-up, it focuses behind the RF.
Close-up, at F2, focus is several inches behind the RF:
The optics are too close to the film plane to focus correctly. On a J-3, I would adjust the main shim to optimize for close-up and wide-open. Infinity is usually good, at worst stop down a little to get the Sonnar shift in your favor.
The Nikkor 8.5cm F2, wide-open and close-up. Focus is spot-on. No adjustments were required on this lens, thrown on my Canon P.
I'm going to adjust the lens, and will report back to this thread with results. It will be a while. Another reason to buy an M9.... adjusting this $60 J-9.
raid
Dad Photographer
Brian,
Will you actually get an M9 soon?
Your lens testing would be much faster and cheaper [sort of].
Will you actually get an M9 soon?
Your lens testing would be much faster and cheaper [sort of].
BillBingham2
Registered User
You could run your tests on an M8 for focus accuracy too!
Just trying to help keep some cash in your pocket........
B2 (;->
Just trying to help keep some cash in your pocket........
B2 (;->
I have not decided on the Digital. Would make it quicker for tests. The thought of an M9 with a J-3 on it is appealing.
The M9 apparently makes it easier for using non-coded lenses. If it is true that Hot Mirror filters are no longer required, that is an advantage. Mine are in 52mm and 62mm, for the Kodak DCS200 camera.
But honestly, I just love shooting film. And the Canon P has a 1x finder.
The M9 apparently makes it easier for using non-coded lenses. If it is true that Hot Mirror filters are no longer required, that is an advantage. Mine are in 52mm and 62mm, for the Kodak DCS200 camera.
But honestly, I just love shooting film. And the Canon P has a 1x finder.
Matus
Well-known
Brian - the J-9 is indeed an interesting lens. Would you mind to share the details how one adjusts the shims? I have J-3 on its way and my consider J-9 in the future too (when I come to think of it I should get some camera too 
).
).payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
Brian, at close focus my recently bought J-9 is doing what yours does. I have not tested it at infinity. The eBay seller, kubanoid, said nothing about focus. Just a bland "all functions available."
My J-3 instructions:
http://ziforums.com/showthread.php?t=97
and at Kim Coxon's site:
http://pentax-manuals.com/repairs.htm
http://ziforums.com/showthread.php?t=97
and at Kim Coxon's site:
http://pentax-manuals.com/repairs.htm
This J-9 could not be brought into good focus for near and far. I could reduce the error for focus across the range, but the change required for the rear optics and the main shim were too great. Edit: My 1958 and 1959 J-9's did not have a rear shim.
I transplanted the rear module and front element into a 1959 J-9, originally in Kiev/Contax mount. The front glass on the 1958 lens is perfect, as is the rear module. I left the front triplet in place in the 1959 J-9. The error across the focus range appears to be much less with this hacked lens. I will be testing it and report back. The fixture is just off.
I had a second J-9 sent to me that suffered the same problem, but the error war not as big as the 1958 lens. I moved the optics module out almost 1 full turn and put in the appropriate shim to keep it there. It's sweet spot is 3m, looks good at 1.15m. At 5m, it will need to be stopped down to F4.
I transplanted the rear module and front element into a 1959 J-9, originally in Kiev/Contax mount. The front glass on the 1958 lens is perfect, as is the rear module. I left the front triplet in place in the 1959 J-9. The error across the focus range appears to be much less with this hacked lens. I will be testing it and report back. The fixture is just off.
I had a second J-9 sent to me that suffered the same problem, but the error war not as big as the 1958 lens. I moved the optics module out almost 1 full turn and put in the appropriate shim to keep it there. It's sweet spot is 3m, looks good at 1.15m. At 5m, it will need to be stopped down to F4.
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L
lkgroup
Guest
My Jupiter 9 is excellent in mid range to infinity focusing, really outstanding. Where is is tricky is F/2 and close up. There is it off a little. I try and use a more moderate f/stop when focusing close.
A really nice lens that I wish was perfect all focusing and F/stops
Leo
A really nice lens that I wish was perfect all focusing and F/stops
Leo
raid
Dad Photographer
My J-9 is in Contax mount, and I have not [yet] noticed any focus problems with it. I use such lenses mostly for portraits, so I bet that I have never used my J-9 at the infinity setting.
R
Roberto
Guest
I have a J9 leica mount that is optically quite good but it doesn't focus correctly at short distance and wide open, any chance you can give me some advice on how to correct it?
Thanks,
rob.
On the second lens, I backed the optics module out 7/8ths of a turn in the mount. That improved agreement between the actual focus seen through the lens and the RF of the camera. I used a shim from the 1958 lens on it. In the past, I have used layers of tin-foil or copper tape to build up the shim. At 5M, that lens is now off. The owner wants it for head-shots, and it should serve that purpose. At infinity, best to stop down to F4.
Kiev/Contax mount lenses will have the same problem if used on a Nikon S-Mount RF: the RF cam of the lens is calibrated differently than the Nikon RF.
Kiev/Contax mount lenses will have the same problem if used on a Nikon S-Mount RF: the RF cam of the lens is calibrated differently than the Nikon RF.
I went back to the drawing board. On my lens, I removed the rear optics module: no shim. I Removed the glass and filed ~0.5mm off the fixture and re-inserted. This REDuCED the focal length. I shimmed the lens for close-up at 1.15m, and distance was much better agreement.
On the late Black J-9: there WAS a secondary shim. I removed it, and adjusted the rear module and main shim until I got a good focus at 1.15m and at 5.2m. I put some marks for aligning the rear module, and used nail polish to hold in place. I have no supply of rear shims. I used copper tape to build up the main shim for correct distance.
This is as good as I can get it. Without adjusting the rear stand-off, the agreement was not over much of a range. Figure the sweet-spot should be 4ft~8ft with this lens. At F2, the DOF covered error at 5M. I would stop down to F2.8 for infinity.
I'll shoot with my J-9, which is now a major hack. Front element is a KMZ 1958, rest of it is 1959. Using the through the lens viewer, it looks sharp. It looks MUCH better than my first attempt at using the lens. The fixture and glass are beautiful. The fixture might be left over German parts, which were used on J-9's in the 1950s. The fixture on the 1959 lens had different material and finish.
The rear module of the 58 KMZ had cement on the retaining ring. I may soak it. Do not file down the rear module without removing the glass, unless you are desparate and the alternative is to use the lens as a paperweight.
On the late Black J-9: there WAS a secondary shim. I removed it, and adjusted the rear module and main shim until I got a good focus at 1.15m and at 5.2m. I put some marks for aligning the rear module, and used nail polish to hold in place. I have no supply of rear shims. I used copper tape to build up the main shim for correct distance.
This is as good as I can get it. Without adjusting the rear stand-off, the agreement was not over much of a range. Figure the sweet-spot should be 4ft~8ft with this lens. At F2, the DOF covered error at 5M. I would stop down to F2.8 for infinity.
I'll shoot with my J-9, which is now a major hack. Front element is a KMZ 1958, rest of it is 1959. Using the through the lens viewer, it looks sharp. It looks MUCH better than my first attempt at using the lens. The fixture and glass are beautiful. The fixture might be left over German parts, which were used on J-9's in the 1950s. The fixture on the 1959 lens had different material and finish.
The rear module of the 58 KMZ had cement on the retaining ring. I may soak it. Do not file down the rear module without removing the glass, unless you are desparate and the alternative is to use the lens as a paperweight.
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jmkelly
rangefinder user
Raid: are you using one of Amadeo's adapters? I had a Contax-mount J-9 that focused perfectly at all distances using this adapter on M bodies.
Brian - does the J-9 have two focus helicals? Is the travel of the rear element linear across its range? I can imagine how much more difficult it is to adjust the J-9 compared to the J-3.
The J-9 has a double helical, and translates the motion for the 8.5cm focal length to the RF cam. The translation produces the same travel on the RF Cam that a J-3 or J-9 lens would produce, ie for a 52.4mm focal length lens. The Leica standard is set up for a nominal 51.6mm travel. The travel on the RF cam of the Russian lens is ~0.1mm more than a Leica is set up for. Reducing the focal length of the J-9 slightly means the required travel for the focus across range is less, and that lines up with the J-9 monted on a Leica.
That's my story, and I am sticking to it...
That's my story, and I am sticking to it...
raid
Dad Photographer
John: I was referring to using the J-9 on Contax cameras and not LTM cameras. I am resisting getting one of the Amedeo adapters since it may result in not using Contax cameras anymore.
jmkelly
rangefinder user
Hi Raid:
From my own experience I can tell you - I bought the Amadeo adapter first, then the Contax lenses, then the Contax cameras.
Last night, following Brian's instructions, I completed the ultimate Sonnar project for that black-finished Contax II completed earlier this year - took a 1937 Sonnar with bad glass, painted the shell black, replaced the lenses with the elements from a 1977 Valdai J-3, and used the Amadeo adapter on the R-D-1 to adjust the shimming on the lens. It's on the Contax II now - burning the first roll.
And my Contax IIa is off getting some TLC from Eddy. The Amadeo adapter is a useful tool - but no substitute for the pleasure of using the Contax cameras. Though I do prefer shooting the Nikkor P.C on it to shooting the same lens on the Contax bodies.
From my own experience I can tell you - I bought the Amadeo adapter first, then the Contax lenses, then the Contax cameras.
Last night, following Brian's instructions, I completed the ultimate Sonnar project for that black-finished Contax II completed earlier this year - took a 1937 Sonnar with bad glass, painted the shell black, replaced the lenses with the elements from a 1977 Valdai J-3, and used the Amadeo adapter on the R-D-1 to adjust the shimming on the lens. It's on the Contax II now - burning the first roll.
And my Contax IIa is off getting some TLC from Eddy. The Amadeo adapter is a useful tool - but no substitute for the pleasure of using the Contax cameras. Though I do prefer shooting the Nikkor P.C on it to shooting the same lens on the Contax bodies.
raid
Dad Photographer
John,
I hope that your Sonnar project lens turns out what you hoped for. I am more basic in this regard.
The Amedeo adapter may still be mine one day.
I was finally in the mood to get Amedeo adapt a Zeiss Planar 50mm/1.4 from Rollei QBM to M when he informed me that demand was too low and that he stopped making such adaptation. What a bummer!
I hope that your Sonnar project lens turns out what you hoped for. I am more basic in this regard.
The Amedeo adapter may still be mine one day.
I was finally in the mood to get Amedeo adapt a Zeiss Planar 50mm/1.4 from Rollei QBM to M when he informed me that demand was too low and that he stopped making such adaptation. What a bummer!
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
Brian, I'm planning to send the bad J-9 to my repair person in Calcutta (now Kolkata) together with a print-out of the instructions I found on the pentax-manuals site. This is the best I can do. But will it be good enough? The instructions in question do not speak of changing the focal length of the lens.
Do you have a Black J-9, or an earlier Chrome lens?
The Black J-9 has a shim for the rear module. Reducing it by about 0.5mm~0.75mm will reduce the focal length of the lens. After that is done, then set the main shim for proper focus. You must set the focus to be correct for close-up and distance. I set the rear module's stand-off, adjusted for 1.15m then stepped back to 5m. Actual focus and the RF must agree at both settings. So a few iterations were required: set rear stand-off/ set main shim. Check focus at both distances. re-adjust until the lens and actual focus were within F2 DOF for both.
I'll be testing the lens, and will post the results.
The Black J-9 has a shim for the rear module. Reducing it by about 0.5mm~0.75mm will reduce the focal length of the lens. After that is done, then set the main shim for proper focus. You must set the focus to be correct for close-up and distance. I set the rear module's stand-off, adjusted for 1.15m then stepped back to 5m. Actual focus and the RF must agree at both settings. So a few iterations were required: set rear stand-off/ set main shim. Check focus at both distances. re-adjust until the lens and actual focus were within F2 DOF for both.
I'll be testing the lens, and will post the results.