JandC Pro 100 sheet film?

[wlewisiii]

Noticed the price 😱 and was wondering if anyone here had tried it in 4x5? 25 sheets for $8 seems like a good deal, but wanted to know if there was anyone here with actual experiance with it. I've seen some comments elsewhere, but I find the folks here a better guage on these matters.

Perhaps as important for me, has anyone here developed it in Diafine? 😀

Thanks!

William

 

[tpersin]

i've used it and it works quite well. I've found it best results using it at ASA64, not 100. I've used Rodinal with it and achieved wonderful results. I bought 50 sheets and would definitely buy it again... for $8 how can you go wrong. the 8x10 is also nice, but ASA32 achieves best results there.

good luck!
tp

 

[phototone]

Perhaps as important for me, has anyone here developed it in Diafine? 😀

Thanks!

William

It might be difficult to achieve even overall development with Diafine due to the low-agitation concept behind most diafine processing.

In general the larger-format negatives show their best qualities with a somewhat denser negative than is acceptable for minature films (35mm). Grain is not an issue with 4x5, therefore you develop for best "tones". Straight D-76 would be a good choice.

 

[plexi]

I use it in 120/4x5/8x10, great film!
I get the best results in XTOL and Pyrocat HD.

 

[wlewisiii]

I've seen a lot of good things about it and Pyro, but I won't have Pyro in the house. It's just a bit too much with my little guy around. I may just have to break down and get some D-76 for my sheet film.

William

 

[phototone]

I've seen a lot of good things about it and Pyro, but I won't have Pyro in the house. It's just a bit too much with my little guy around. I may just have to break down and get some D-76 for my sheet film.

William

Well I guess all developers have a level of toxicity that should be avoided. If you purchase the pre-mixed Pyro developer from Photographers Formulary, then some of the implied fear of handling the raw pyrogallol powder would be eliminated. Still, it is imperative that ALL photo chemicals be kept well away from curious little fingers.
D-76 is by far the best all around developer available. Not best at each specific task, but the best "all around" developer that does most things quite well. It is readily available, relatively cheap, easy to mix, has good keeping qualities, and gives moderately fine grain with good density and relatively short developing times with most films. You can develop ANY b/w film in D-76 and get good negs. (assuming you follow recommended processing times and temperatures) Used straight, no dilution with water, it can make a pretty good tray developer for cut film, and with a processing time of about 6 minutes not too long to be shuffling sheets in a tray. Another good choice would be Kodak HC-110, which many people feel is kinda like a liquid concentrate D-76, in that it gives similar results, and you can get even shorter developing times if you wish. HC-110 is a thick syrupy liquid concentrate that is diluted with water at different dilutions for different processing times and purposes. It is used once and discarded, it is economical because you use so little of the concentrate to make up a tankful of developer. I guess Rodinal would be in the same category, but it has quite different characteristics. HC-110 produces negatives very similar to D-76 straight or at 1:1 dilution.

 

[plexi]

I've seen a lot of good things about it and Pyro, but I won't have Pyro in the house. It's just a bit too much with my little guy around. I may just have to break down and get some D-76 for my sheet film.

William

Pyrocat HD isn`t much more toxic than D-76, much safer than regular Pyro developers. Very economical is use. Photographers Formulary sells it in liquid form.
But if you develop a lot 35mm, I`d get XTOL or D-76.