Pioneer
Veteran
Welcome.
Great stuff. It is nice to see someone else posting their results. Please post more often.
I really haven't tried any nighttime photos yet so I am certainly interested in seeing how it works.
HC110b is a good option for developing but you definitely have to tone down the agitations. I found that two per minute was good but when I tried fewer, or really slowed down those two, I started to see signs of what looked like bromide streaks.
I will say, if you like contrast, this is certainly the film for you. With the right subject matter I think you could get some really graphic looking photos.
Great stuff. It is nice to see someone else posting their results. Please post more often.
I really haven't tried any nighttime photos yet so I am certainly interested in seeing how it works.
HC110b is a good option for developing but you definitely have to tone down the agitations. I found that two per minute was good but when I tried fewer, or really slowed down those two, I started to see signs of what looked like bromide streaks.
I will say, if you like contrast, this is certainly the film for you. With the right subject matter I think you could get some really graphic looking photos.
Pioneer
Veteran
HP5+ vs Street Pan 400 vs TriX
HP5+ vs Street Pan 400 vs TriX
Awhile back someone asked for a comparison to other popular ISO400 films, specifically TriX and HP5 Plus.
Well, this is not typically what I do but you asked for it so I'm going to give it to you.
All the photographs were taken handheld on the same day using the Pentax PZ1p with the SMC Pentax FA 50/1.4 prime lens. Exposure was using matrix style auto exposure at ISO400 and focus was auto focus using center point. No filters were used. By looking at the clock photos you will get an idea of the time of day.
In the following comparison montages the left side photo is always HP5 Plus, the center photo is always Street Pan 400 and the right side photo is always TriX.
I probably should have but I did nothing to these photos but scan them, resize them for the montage photo, and make the montage. No sharpening, no post processing of any kind. Not even any spotting to get rid of dust spots and other blemishes. However, in the case of the lamp comparison, I did crop to 1:1 square.
HP5 Plus was developed in Ilfotec DDX 1+4 at 20C for 9 minutes.
EDIT - The HP5 was developed in D76 1:1, not Ilfotec DDX as stated above.
TriX was developed in D76 1:1 at 20C for 9 minutes and 45 seconds.
Street Pan 400 was developed in D76 1:1 for 16 minutes and 30 seconds.
These are all the manufacturer's recommendations.
Agitation was done continual for the 1st 30 seconds and then 3 inversions every minute after.
So, without further ado, for your viewing pleasure, here are four comparison montages. I make no attempt whatsoever to decipher what they mean.
CLOCKS
A MESS OF THINGS IN MY DRIVEWAY
A DRIVEWAY ENTRY LAMP
A TREE TRUNK (just because I can)
Enjoy the week and I truly hope all is well with you today.
HP5+ vs Street Pan 400 vs TriX
Awhile back someone asked for a comparison to other popular ISO400 films, specifically TriX and HP5 Plus.
Well, this is not typically what I do but you asked for it so I'm going to give it to you.
All the photographs were taken handheld on the same day using the Pentax PZ1p with the SMC Pentax FA 50/1.4 prime lens. Exposure was using matrix style auto exposure at ISO400 and focus was auto focus using center point. No filters were used. By looking at the clock photos you will get an idea of the time of day.
In the following comparison montages the left side photo is always HP5 Plus, the center photo is always Street Pan 400 and the right side photo is always TriX.
I probably should have but I did nothing to these photos but scan them, resize them for the montage photo, and make the montage. No sharpening, no post processing of any kind. Not even any spotting to get rid of dust spots and other blemishes. However, in the case of the lamp comparison, I did crop to 1:1 square.
HP5 Plus was developed in Ilfotec DDX 1+4 at 20C for 9 minutes.
EDIT - The HP5 was developed in D76 1:1, not Ilfotec DDX as stated above.
TriX was developed in D76 1:1 at 20C for 9 minutes and 45 seconds.
Street Pan 400 was developed in D76 1:1 for 16 minutes and 30 seconds.
These are all the manufacturer's recommendations.
Agitation was done continual for the 1st 30 seconds and then 3 inversions every minute after.
So, without further ado, for your viewing pleasure, here are four comparison montages. I make no attempt whatsoever to decipher what they mean.
CLOCKS
A MESS OF THINGS IN MY DRIVEWAY
A DRIVEWAY ENTRY LAMP
A TREE TRUNK (just because I can
)
Enjoy the week and I truly hope all is well with you today.
Pioneer
Veteran
Flash Photography and D23
Flash Photography and D23
Today I have some interesting information to share with you.
But, before I get started I want to thank Moto Uno for the loan of his extremely nice Olympus OM-1n including a terrific Tokina 28-70 f2.8-4.3 zoom. All the photos in this post were taken with that fine kit. If you are considering a zoom for your Olympus camera you would be well served with this fine Tokina zoom. Any way, thank you very much Moto Uno.
I decided to shoot some of this film using a flash. So I went and dug around and found my Vivitar Auto Thyristor 225 flash. Now this little puppy wasn't top of the line back when it was new, it has a guide number of about 68 at ASA100, so it ain't no barn burning strobe. But, it's light (130g), it only takes two AA batteries that give me over 150 flashes, and it is very reliable. The auto thyristor automatically adjusts the flash for the light needed to it is pretty easy to use if you aren't interested in fiddling with the numbers in manual mode.
Finally, I mixed up a batch of D-23 to develop this film in. D-23 is the older cousin of D-76 and is also related to Beutler. It takes about 7.5g of Metol to 100g of Sodium Sulfite along with 1 liter of Mother Nature's perfect solvent, water, to put together a liter of fresh developer. So, to make things simple, all the photos you will see in this post today were souped in D-23.
As much as I like Beutler, I think I like D-23 better for this film. But let's quit talking and start looking at some photographs, shall we? You can make up your own mind.
I will be spending most of this weekend at the fair, the carnival and probably at the horse races...with a camera in tow for sure.
This was a very enjoyable post for me. I liked the camera, I liked the lens, I like this film, and I definitely like the developer.
I truly hope you have plans for the weekend, especially for those of you who are celebrating Labor Day Weekend. This is the traditional end of summer for those of us in the United States so a lot of celebration will happen outdoors. Lots of chances for some great photo opportunities and lots of chances to spend some quality time with friends and relatives.
Take advantage of it.
Flash Photography and D23
Today I have some interesting information to share with you.
But, before I get started I want to thank Moto Uno for the loan of his extremely nice Olympus OM-1n including a terrific Tokina 28-70 f2.8-4.3 zoom. All the photos in this post were taken with that fine kit. If you are considering a zoom for your Olympus camera you would be well served with this fine Tokina zoom. Any way, thank you very much Moto Uno.
I decided to shoot some of this film using a flash. So I went and dug around and found my Vivitar Auto Thyristor 225 flash. Now this little puppy wasn't top of the line back when it was new, it has a guide number of about 68 at ASA100, so it ain't no barn burning strobe. But, it's light (130g), it only takes two AA batteries that give me over 150 flashes, and it is very reliable. The auto thyristor automatically adjusts the flash for the light needed to it is pretty easy to use if you aren't interested in fiddling with the numbers in manual mode.
Finally, I mixed up a batch of D-23 to develop this film in. D-23 is the older cousin of D-76 and is also related to Beutler. It takes about 7.5g of Metol to 100g of Sodium Sulfite along with 1 liter of Mother Nature's perfect solvent, water, to put together a liter of fresh developer. So, to make things simple, all the photos you will see in this post today were souped in D-23.
As much as I like Beutler, I think I like D-23 better for this film. But let's quit talking and start looking at some photographs, shall we? You can make up your own mind.
I will be spending most of this weekend at the fair, the carnival and probably at the horse races...with a camera in tow for sure.
This was a very enjoyable post for me. I liked the camera, I liked the lens, I like this film, and I definitely like the developer.
I truly hope you have plans for the weekend, especially for those of you who are celebrating Labor Day Weekend. This is the traditional end of summer for those of us in the United States so a lot of celebration will happen outdoors. Lots of chances for some great photo opportunities and lots of chances to spend some quality time with friends and relatives.
Take advantage of it.
Huss
Veteran
Happy Labour Day Pioneer! You've done enough work on this thread!
totifoto
Well-known
I shot a few rolls of this film on my vacation this summer. Like this film but it is a bit to expensive, specially when it has to be shipped all the way to Iceland and then pay 24% taxes on top of the price+shipping :/
But I like trying out new film and celebrate every time someone comes out with a new one
But I like trying out new film and celebrate every time someone comes out with a new one
I finally developed my two rolls of JCH StreetPan 400!
I used Fujifilm Super Prodol developer because, well, why not. I intended to develop the film for 14 minutes 30 seconds at 18C and 1:1 concentration which is the time I got by extrapolating from D76 developing times, but I mistakenly set the timer to 16 minutes when developing, so the actual developing time was about 10% longer than intended. Still, the results look ok to me.
I shoot Neopan 400 almost exclusively, and compared to that film, this film appears to be finer grained with higher sharpness. It also seems to be less prone to dust bunnies and scratches on the film. Photos below taken using a Summar 50/2 on a Leica MP.
I used Fujifilm Super Prodol developer because, well, why not. I intended to develop the film for 14 minutes 30 seconds at 18C and 1:1 concentration which is the time I got by extrapolating from D76 developing times, but I mistakenly set the timer to 16 minutes when developing, so the actual developing time was about 10% longer than intended. Still, the results look ok to me.
I shoot Neopan 400 almost exclusively, and compared to that film, this film appears to be finer grained with higher sharpness. It also seems to be less prone to dust bunnies and scratches on the film. Photos below taken using a Summar 50/2 on a Leica MP.
Highway 61
Revisited
That film looks like some old orthochromatic ORWO films made in the GDR before the iron curtain got lifted. I still have a roll of ORWO 25 in a tray, expired since 1982.
Not surprising to read it's an old surveillance film having an extra sensitivity towards the red side of the spectrum.
If by misfortune Ilford or Kodak went out of the market, I'd prefer to support a company like Foma over buying such odd stuff... Uh, I wish we wouldn't be left with that kind of film !
Not surprising to read it's an old surveillance film having an extra sensitivity towards the red side of the spectrum.
If by misfortune Ilford or Kodak went out of the market, I'd prefer to support a company like Foma over buying such odd stuff... Uh, I wish we wouldn't be left with that kind of film !
I haven't tried any ORWO films before, but the JCH film does remind me of the now discontinued Efke films I've tried (and actually quite liked). I have a couple of rolls of expired ORWO film in the fridge and your comment has piqued my interest in trying them out now, Nicolas.
Two more snapped with a W-Nikkor 3.5cm F1.8
Two more snapped with a Summar 5cm F2
Pioneer
Veteran
You are certainly making this street stuff look pretty easy. It looks like I may need to find some of this Prodol you are using and give it a try as well.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
Excellent work with a lovely film. Thanks Pioneer and everyone else for your contributions.
BTW I'd love to see similar threads for other films, especially those I have been hesitant to try.
Chris
BTW I'd love to see similar threads for other films, especially those I have been hesitant to try.
Chris
Nobita
Newbie
Those street shots from Japan are fantastic.
I've developed shot another roll since the last time I posted. I continue to be really happy about how flat the film dries making it so much easier to mount when scanning. It's nice not having to wait another 24 hours flattening the film under a pile of heavy photo books after drying and cutting.
I was at Riot Fest, a 3 day music festival in Denver over Labor Day weekend and decided to take along my Contax G2 again since I've neglected it for so so long. It was super bright, super crowded and I didn't really pull out my camera much, but I did manage to get some shots of Jessica Hernandez and the Deltas when they took the stage as they played the indoor stage and it was a bit calmer.
Contax G2, HC-110(b) @ 5:00
The high contrast of the film worked well for this type of shot.
We also took a trip out to the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs one morning. But for nature shots, I did not get any really good results... I think for me the film has far too much contrast and I was having a hard time metering and trying to get all the details out of film during scanning just managed to bring out the grain even more...
I think I'll continue to use this film for street shooting and now, maybe for a few shows at local clubs based on how the shots at Riot Fest turned out. I usually shot either my dwindling stock of Super Presto 1600 or pushed my HP5+ to 1600... Maybe I'll try pushing this film to 1600 and see what I get next.
I've developed shot another roll since the last time I posted. I continue to be really happy about how flat the film dries making it so much easier to mount when scanning. It's nice not having to wait another 24 hours flattening the film under a pile of heavy photo books after drying and cutting.
I was at Riot Fest, a 3 day music festival in Denver over Labor Day weekend and decided to take along my Contax G2 again since I've neglected it for so so long. It was super bright, super crowded and I didn't really pull out my camera much, but I did manage to get some shots of Jessica Hernandez and the Deltas when they took the stage as they played the indoor stage and it was a bit calmer.
Contax G2, HC-110(b) @ 5:00
The high contrast of the film worked well for this type of shot.
We also took a trip out to the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs one morning. But for nature shots, I did not get any really good results... I think for me the film has far too much contrast and I was having a hard time metering and trying to get all the details out of film during scanning just managed to bring out the grain even more...
I think I'll continue to use this film for street shooting and now, maybe for a few shows at local clubs based on how the shots at Riot Fest turned out. I usually shot either my dwindling stock of Super Presto 1600 or pushed my HP5+ to 1600... Maybe I'll try pushing this film to 1600 and see what I get next.
Pioneer
Veteran
That 2nd stage shot is terrific Nobita.
I have come to love the grain in this film but would also like to settle on a development routine that helps control it a bit. Beutler and D23 do a very nice job in the development department but grain is still quite evident.
I won't get to that for awhile. I have mixed up enough different developers that I need to get them used up before they end up expiring.
I have come to love the grain in this film but would also like to settle on a development routine that helps control it a bit. Beutler and D23 do a very nice job in the development department but grain is still quite evident.
I won't get to that for awhile. I have mixed up enough different developers that I need to get them used up before they end up expiring.
Thanks. I think Super Prodol is only available in Japan, but afaik its Fujifilm's equivalent of D76. They're similar albeit not identical developers.
Thanks a lot. Really enjoying your images too.
kiemchacsu
Well-known
there are several, however for some reasons this JHC Street Pan 400 film catch s more interests than other.
below is link to thread about Kentmere film, which is the only 35mm bw film i am shooting at the moment.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124507&page=2
very crisp images, i am enjoying your japan photos very much. thanks for sharing. needless to repeat again that it all depends on photographer, no matter what gear he is using.
Highway 61
Revisited
The JHC Street Pan 400 is the exact same film as the Rollei Retro 400S which you can easily buy off the Maco Direct store in Germany (www.macodirect.de).
And both are the same film as the old Agfa Aviphot 400S.
So, nothing new but for the retail price : the same film branded as JCH Steet Pan 400 costs twice as much as the same film branded as Rollei Retro 400S.
Nuts.
And both are the same film as the old Agfa Aviphot 400S.
So, nothing new but for the retail price : the same film branded as JCH Steet Pan 400 costs twice as much as the same film branded as Rollei Retro 400S.
Nuts.
leicapixie
Well-known
My thoughts are that the few rolls, in terms of Ilford and the Great Yellow Giant, will have no effect on their sales.
Ilford markets Kentmere I North America(which I use) and a Pan film in Europe. I prefer Ilford HP+5, but K400 has been tweaked and is great.
The Kentmere 100, no FP4, but nice.
Bellamy has given folks another choice.
In Canada, there is Forma and Rollei but way to expensive..
I doubt I will ever use Tri-X again.
T-Max if price acceptable.
Kodak is plain greedy.
Ilford markets Kentmere I North America(which I use) and a Pan film in Europe. I prefer Ilford HP+5, but K400 has been tweaked and is great.
The Kentmere 100, no FP4, but nice.
Bellamy has given folks another choice.
In Canada, there is Forma and Rollei but way to expensive..
I doubt I will ever use Tri-X again.
T-Max if price acceptable.
Kodak is plain greedy.
Pioneer
Veteran
I just realized that I have about 3 roll of Rollei Retro 400S that were picked up a couple of years ago. I'll have to shoot these and compare them against the JCH Street Pan 400.
Personally, I have used some of my initial development times from data that comes from Rollei Retro 400S. Sometimes it seems to be ok, other times the results have been way out of whack, so I don't know what to think.
However, in the interests of "science", and because I really am enjoying this film, I'll try both just to see how it comes out. How flat it dries will be a good starting point.
Personally, I have used some of my initial development times from data that comes from Rollei Retro 400S. Sometimes it seems to be ok, other times the results have been way out of whack, so I don't know what to think.
However, in the interests of "science", and because I really am enjoying this film, I'll try both just to see how it comes out. How flat it dries will be a good starting point.
Ridor
Newbie
Here is my contribution to this thread - I just shot my first roll of StreetPan this morning and I developed it in homemade D76H using the Rollei Retro 400S settings in the Massive Development app. It does seem to scan fairly well with my v850.
The Beauty Bar on Fremont Street in downtown Las Vegas
The Beauty Bar on Fremont Street in downtown Las Vegas
Peter Jennings
Well-known
Welcome, Ridor! Nice tonality with the Street Pan there!
Pioneer
Veteran
Very nice first post...and welcome.