stevierose
Ann Arbor, Michigan
I got a good deal on a Jobo CPA2 with lift and am waiting for it to arrive. My arthritis has gotten to the point where manual tank agitation is difficult, so I m hoping the Jobo will be easier on my hands. I have been searching YouTube for useful videos, looking at stuff from the Jobo site, and searching for threads here on RFF. If any of you experienced Jobo users can throw some advice and tips my way on how best to get started successfully and avoid mistakes, or direct me to useful resources, I will be very grateful.
Up until now I have mainly developed 35 mm and 120 TMax 400 in X-Tol 1:1 or TMax, and Tri-X in D76. For now I don't plan to develop color film or prints.
Thanks!
Steve Rosenblum
Up until now I have mainly developed 35 mm and 120 TMax 400 in X-Tol 1:1 or TMax, and Tri-X in D76. For now I don't plan to develop color film or prints.
Thanks!
Steve Rosenblum
valdas
Veteran
I have Jobo (without lift) but I am using it mainly for C41 amd E6. For traditional b&w you need to experiment with the development times - those are shorter due to constant agitation. This can also have some effect on the grain, especially for faster films.
roscoetuff
Well-known
I am out of town, but have recently gone down the same road. Widely recommended, there is a Kodak document J-109 that gives info on stolen with rotary processing. I am using replenished Xtol in a stock solution and quite happy with the results. I use 1:1 times when I can’t find replenished times. There is also a document on the Jobo USA site specifically on Xtol you should read. Basically, no pre-soak. Also, note that while plenty suggest cutting development times by 15% for rotary processing, many do not. Your own experience is important. If I were home I could help far more... but on the road for a few days. Hope this helps get you started.
stevierose
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thanks for the help! My Jobo won't be here for awhile, if you are willing to provide more help when you get home I will be most appreciative!
Steve Rosenblum
Thanks!
Thanks for the help! My Jobo won't be here for awhile, if you are willing to provide more help when you get home I will be most appreciative!
Steve Rosenblum
Freakscene
Obscure member
Read the Jobo document on Xtol, and look at the times in the Xtol documentation for rotary agitation. Kodak and Jobo did all the hard work for you.
Good luck,
Marty
Good luck,
Marty
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stevierose
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Have any of you developed Tri-x in D76 1:1 in a Jobo?
stevierose
Ann Arbor, Michigan
dof
Fiat Lux
That's one of my standard combos. Experimentation and documentation have been the key for all success in my working methods. I've kept a journal or "Darkroom Cookbook" of my experiences with different combinations of film, temperature and development times over the years. I can't say enough good things about this practice. I've included an example entry for reference below, but do take this as an example only. What works for me may be of no use to anyone else. Much of this came out of the methods described in Chris Johnson's book, The Practical Zone System. I can honestly say that following the recommendations in this book pushed my photography further than any other single element in my ongoing journey. Hope this helps!
Tri-X 35mm / D-76 11.3.09
Film / ISO: Tri-X 35mm 36 / 200
Process: N + 1
Developer: D-76 1:1
Quantity: 5 rolls / 640 ml
Tank: 2553
Temp: 70°ƒ
Time: 9:54
Comments: Low contrast shots: overcast days, sun-shrouded forests, low-lying fog on I-5, night shots with no bright lights, etc. Adding 10% to my standard (non-daytime) Normal time tacks on 54 seconds to the lot. Most of these shots are of low-contrast subjects. Due a failing (battery-less) meter, there was a lot of exposure bracketing while shooting two of the rolls. There will be some hit and miss here as well.
Post-Process Notes: These negs are brilliant! As one would expect they have a bit of pronounced grain, but shy of the sun poking through too intensely in a few of the forest shots, the overall tonality is just great. It inspires a decidedly photographic vision. Will definitely visit this combo again.
Film / ISO: Tri-X 35mm 36 / 200
Process: N + 1
Developer: D-76 1:1
Quantity: 5 rolls / 640 ml
Tank: 2553
Temp: 70°ƒ
Time: 9:54
Comments: Low contrast shots: overcast days, sun-shrouded forests, low-lying fog on I-5, night shots with no bright lights, etc. Adding 10% to my standard (non-daytime) Normal time tacks on 54 seconds to the lot. Most of these shots are of low-contrast subjects. Due a failing (battery-less) meter, there was a lot of exposure bracketing while shooting two of the rolls. There will be some hit and miss here as well.
Post-Process Notes: These negs are brilliant! As one would expect they have a bit of pronounced grain, but shy of the sun poking through too intensely in a few of the forest shots, the overall tonality is just great. It inspires a decidedly photographic vision. Will definitely visit this combo again.
stevierose
Ann Arbor, Michigan
roscoetuff
Well-known
Steve:
I'm home, but see that Marty was able to give you the links I wanted to offer... so you have it. The only thing I'd add as someone who's a fan of the tones in relatively low contrast Perceptol-developed images, I've been converted to XTOL-R (replenished XTOL) for satisfying images closer to box speed. There's a step-wise process to go from developing at "stock" towards shooting stock XTOL-R, and I went there in 5 stops, adjusting time by fifths. Truth be told, I used practice rolls I didn't care about, or didn't care much about, and I've enjoyed the results. You can do more research to determine whether you want to go down this road or not (suggest looking on Flickr), but the Kodak J-109 document lays out how to use once you get seasoned. THere is also lots of material on APUG (now Photrio) on replenishment, or if you will, in Henry Hornstein's B&W book. Developing with "stock" is sweet in terms of simply pouring your chemistry out with little mixing (at that time).
I'm home, but see that Marty was able to give you the links I wanted to offer... so you have it. The only thing I'd add as someone who's a fan of the tones in relatively low contrast Perceptol-developed images, I've been converted to XTOL-R (replenished XTOL) for satisfying images closer to box speed. There's a step-wise process to go from developing at "stock" towards shooting stock XTOL-R, and I went there in 5 stops, adjusting time by fifths. Truth be told, I used practice rolls I didn't care about, or didn't care much about, and I've enjoyed the results. You can do more research to determine whether you want to go down this road or not (suggest looking on Flickr), but the Kodak J-109 document lays out how to use once you get seasoned. THere is also lots of material on APUG (now Photrio) on replenishment, or if you will, in Henry Hornstein's B&W book. Developing with "stock" is sweet in terms of simply pouring your chemistry out with little mixing (at that time).
Freakscene
Obscure member
This is a good way to get that look.
Tri-X, replenished Xtol, Leica M7, 50mm Summicron
Replenishment is also a good way to avoid Xtol oxidation/'failure'.
One thing worth noting is that Jobo found that when using dilute Xtol, some films needed 200mL of Xtol stock/roll to avoid underdevelopment. Kodak (still) recommends 100mL/roll. Worth bearing in mind.
Plus-X, Xtol 1+3, Leica MP, Konica Hexanon 50mm
Marty
stevierose
Ann Arbor, Michigan
This is a good way to get that look.
Tri-X, replenished Xtol, Leica M7, 50mm Summicron
Replenishment is also a good way to avoid Xtol oxidation/'failure'.
One thing worth noting is that Jobo found that when using dilute Xtol, some films needed 200mL of Xtol stock/roll to avoid underdevelopment. Kodak (still) recommends 100mL/roll. Worth bearing in mind.
Plus-X, Xtol 1+3, Leica MP, Konica Hexanon 50mm
Marty
Nice Photo!