Jupiter 3 - 1956, 1963, 1972 comparison photos

[goamules]

I have a friend in Russia that will sell me one of three Jupiter 3 lenses. All three are LTM mount chrome from the ZOMZ / Zagorsk plant. I plan to use it on my Canon P and G1. Their years are 1956, 1963, and 1972. The two earlier ones have some cleaning wisps in the coating which I hear is common. The two earlier have purple coating, the later yellow.

Now the fun. I'm not telling you yet which is which. In the nature of a taste test, which would you pick? He supplied pictures taken at all stops on a DSLR, below I post those stopped down twice from wide open. The proof is in the pudding, right? Does one stand out to you (as it did to me?) These are not in date order!

larger

larger

larger

Help me confirm or deny my choice!

 

[rxmd]

To me they look pretty much identical and none stand out.

What minimal variation is there seems attributable to to the way they were taken. The guy moved the camera between shots, which is already a bad sign. The third is a bit brighter overall so they were probably shot at slightly different apertures, so either he missed the f/2.8 mark or the aperture ring is not accurately set. Either way macro range on a DSLR is well beyond what a Sonnar-design lens is comfortable with.

I'd say just buy the one you're most comfortable with and be done with it.

 

[Brian Legge]

Focus variation accounts for most of the difference I see in detail resolution ability. The second shot looks focused at a closer point than the other two, which may account for most of the resolution difference it has by comparison. The third shot looks over exposed by comparison, possibly a little glowy though that could just be the exposure difference.

Are you using one on a rangefinder? If so, I'd decide based on calibration there given how similar the shots are here.

 

[hans voralberg]

They all look identical to me, down to the fringing, I'll take any.

 

[alexnotalex]

Can't tell any significant difference at f2.8.
Could you post at f1.5 for fun?

Based on the above I'd take the 1972 one, a. it's the cleanest and b. it's my wife's birth year and I could use that in the "don't you already have a lens?" debate.

Alex

 

[Moriturii]

First one easy. It's sharped and more contrasty which is appealing for color photography. Or perhaps the last one, which seems less contrasty, better for B&W film work.

 

[Brian Legge]

I will say that compared to my other lenses, my ZOMZ J3 from 1962 is distinctly warming, particularly when compared to a Canon 50mm 1.8.

I wonder how consistent the effect of the coating is on color over the years.

 

[FalseDigital]

Not much difference but I'd choose #1.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

It's not a good test for judging a J-3, Sonnars are not meant to be used this close. A DSLR turns a Jupiter into a macro lens. The test does not show if the lenses were shimmed to work on a Leica RF. Expect to have any of the three adjusted for your camera.

If he is a good friend, ask to try all 3 lenses on your camera. test close-up and wide-open.

If you MUST select only one, go with the 1963 lens. 1956 was the first year of manufacture for ZOMZ. Several 1956 and 1957 ZOMZ lenses that I have used were not as good as those from 1958 and later. By the late 1960s, quality had fallen.

Here is a collection of J-3 shots, ranging from 1953 KMZ's through to the Valdai:

http://www.ziforums.com/album.php?albumid=97

 

[Sonnar Brian]

1969 J-3, wide-open at f1.5:

Tight Crop:

1953 KMZ J-3, wide-open at F1.5:

Tight Crop:

Both on my Canon P. Both lenses optimized for close-up and wide-open use for the Leica.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

1961 ZOMZ, wide-open at F1.5 on the Leica M8:





Bokeh Shot...



1957 J-3, wide-open on the M8:

 

[goamules]

Thanks for the comments all. The lenses are in Russia, so I can't handle them yet, and macro are the only shots he gave me. In order the pictures are:
1953
1972
1963

I picked the 1963 because of the brighter, warmer colors (they were so at all apertures), and like Brian says it's the most reliable year of the three.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

check the lens wide-open and close-up. Typically the J-3 needs the shim increased ~0.1mm or so, a layer of kitchen foil works. You will know if the actual focus is behind what the RF indicates.

 

[goamules]

The 63 is coming from Russia, should take a week or so. Since I'm going to start testing it on a m4/3 first, so the shim shouldn't be needed on that. But if I like it, I'll start using it on a Canon P, so will study your guides on the shim.

 

[goamules]

I got the 63 Jupiter 3 and it seems to be a fine lens when you can visually focus through the lens. I'll try it next on my Canon P, these were tests on my G1, all wide open or close.

 

[Steve M.]

The first 3 photos may as well have been made w/ the same lens.

 

[goamules]

If you mean from my last post, #15, they were!

 

[goamules]

Here are a couple more with the 63 Jupiter.