Jupiter-3 50mm f1.5

Cheers for that Johan, there's a Gamma 5 minutes from where I live.

I'd love to have a Sonnar in LTM, to go with the rest of my LTM collection. But I've already paid enough customs and administration fees this month. 😉
So the J-3 will have to do.
 
J3 is really a great lens with the R-D1.

Mine (silver 1956) is actually pretty good when focused close, but it has serious problems when trying to focus mid distance. When i turn the focus from the direction of 1 meter it works pretty good (not perfect), but if I move to the focus point from infinity it's totally off.

Here is the examples. (Sorry the pics are maybe not the best example for the problem but I don't really save the pictures not in focus some time because of this problem)

xxxx1.jpg


xxxx2.jpg



It would be great if some of you experts could help out and tell is there something that can be done as I like the lens very much. It was my only lens for a long time and special because of that also and I would like to get it fixed instead of buying a new one even if it wouldn't be worth it financially
 
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>Mine (silver 1956) is actually pretty good when focused close, but it
>has serious problems when trying to focus mid distance. When i turn
> the focus from the direction of 1 meter it works pretty good (not
>perfect), but if I move to the focus point from infinity it's totally
>off.

I just picked up a very early ZOMZ Jupiter-3 with this problem. Way too much play in the Helical. The lens had a wobble that threw the focus off my 1m at 5m. I took the helical apart, filled with vacuum pump grease. It stops thw wobble, and the actual focus agrees with the RF. You just cannot trust the scale focus: kind of like a torque convertor in an old Automatic Transmission. It will move ~1/2 meter before engaging the mechanism...

I'm going to test it against the KMZ 1956 J-3 that I have. Last of the KMZ vs 1st of the ZOMZ.
 
Hi Brian

Hi Brian

I will probably find out in a few days or so, but I am wondering where you are targeting focus within the DOF range when you shim.

I understand you are correcting the back focus of the FSU lenses/some Sonnars, but where in the ~10-20cm or so of DOF are you targeting pinpoint focus at say 1m/f2 - ish?

Brian Sweeney said:
Raid- you need an M8... for those lens tests. It would be cheaper...

Yesterday, I shimmed the 90/2 Summicron. It was off on my Film cameras as well. 3 Layers of Copper Tape did the trick.
Click to expand...
 
ampguy said:
I will probably find out in a few days or so, but I am wondering where you are targeting focus within the DOF range when you shim.

I understand you are correcting the back focus of the FSU lenses/some Sonnars, but where in the ~10-20cm or so of DOF are you targeting pinpoint focus at say 1m/f2 - ish?
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly, DOF always extends 2/3 behind the focus point and 1/3 in front. I'm guessing Brian puts the focus point at approx 7cm in a 20 cm DOF.

Am I right, Brian?🙄:angel:
 
Maybe an unusaul use...but: It works. Jupiter 3 instead of film scanner.

Days ago I found some slide film in my parents home and take it with me. Here and so it became obvious that my othr hobby is classic cars, and as you can see, its my hobby since 40 years.

Pulling the early 50ies Leitz slide projector from the shelf (ebay, last atumn, 15 Euro) I projected directly against he wall and take a shot with Epson and Jupiter 3.

Here we go...
thanks to bookeh and art of developing slide fimls in the 60ies...not so bad, hm?

EPSN8257_2.JPG
 
Brian,

thank you for the quick reply. So you think if I tell the repairman (who previously quickly took a look at it and told me there's probably nothing he can do as it's a structural problem of the lens) to fill it with vacuum pump grease or should he remove the grease from the helical - and it should be fine? Sorry my knowledge on lens structure and repair are unfortunatly minimal.

Really appreciate your knowledge, thanks!

Brian Sweeney said:
>Mine (silver 1956) is actually pretty good when focused close, but it
>has serious problems when trying to focus mid distance. When i turn
> the focus from the direction of 1 meter it works pretty good (not
>perfect), but if I move to the focus point from infinity it's totally
>off.

I just picked up a very early ZOMZ Jupiter-3 with this problem. Way too much play in the Helical. The lens had a wobble that threw the focus off my 1m at 5m. I took the helical apart, filled with vacuum pump grease. It stops thw wobble, and the actual focus agrees with the RF. You just cannot trust the scale focus: kind of like a torque convertor in an old Automatic Transmission. It will move ~1/2 meter before engaging the mechanism...

I'm going to test it against the KMZ 1956 J-3 that I have. Last of the KMZ vs 1st of the ZOMZ.
Click to expand...
 
On the J-3 that I just did: you have to remove the existing grease because you do not want dissimilar types of grease to mix. I cleaned the old stuff out, which was still in good condition. Then used a few good dabs of vacuum pump grease. I've also seen plumber's grease in the hardware store that was thick, and would do the job. Key here is : thick. It will slow the movement down, and the repairman needs to get the right amount.

On the "sweet Spot", the newest strategy with the M8 in hand is to set F1.5 to slightly front-focus, roughly 2/3 DOF in front, 1/3rd in back. That way the rearward focus shift of F4 is minimized.

At F1.5:
picture.php

At F4:

picture.php


More Here:
http://ziforums.com/album.php?albumid=207&pictureid=2060
 
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Jupiter 3 plus off-topic

Jupiter 3 plus off-topic

Dear all,

enclosed two shots from my beloved Dagamr, while inspecting their Tissot Stone Watch.

Doesn't work any more..even after battery change.

Anyone out there with Tissot Skills?

Please, drop me a line!

Thanks in advance,

ANdreas

Pics: Jupiter 3, Epson Rd1, ISO 800, aperture 1.5/2.0

EPSN8312.JPG

EPSN8306.JPG
 
That is one odd J-3! Probably a custom remount. It is a '56 KMZ, one of the last made with German glass.
 
Brian Sweeney said:
That is one odd J-3! Probably a custom remount. It is a '56 KMZ, one of the last made with German glass.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. It's a bit of a pain in some ways as the aperture ring rotates as you focus and has no click stops but then again I rather like the 'handmade' feel and the focussing is smooth as butter.
 
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