Jupiter 9 lens for portraits?

I use a folding rubber hood from evilblah and cut out a square, I like it. This is f8 I think:
U3373I1132467263.SEQ.0.jpg
 
In my ebay shopping experience, the zeiss Contax ones are not very common, and tend to be expensive, usually about $75. I have used a few 49mm hoods, including the Contax and american eagle versions, as well as the post-war zeiss jena 49mm screw-in bakelite hoods made for the Contax S camera. All work equally well, do not vignette, and do not block the finder on any of my Contax bodies. I have not tried the FSU version. BTW, I used to own a beautiful J-9 in Contax/Kiev mount, but sold it because I had way too many 85/2 lenses.

Good luck with the quest for the appropriate FSU hood.
 
An Olympus OM series screw in common/used for for their 85mmf2 and 100mmf2.8 in rubber or metal is a good compromise. One of these might turn up in a flea market or camera store bargin box. They are marked for focal length. Or you might have an Olympus lens anyway.

The rubber is really useful if you drop the camera, don't ask, trust me... It is quite rigid unlike the floppy fold backs.

Noel
 
Yeah...I have a metal hood from one of my Olympus Pen F lenses. It is a 49mm unlike the 43mm of most Pen lenses.

I looks really really good on my black J9.

~hibbs
 
thats my contribution to the "J9 gallery"
taken at f 2.8
IMO it's a really good lens but you've got to get a good example.
 

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Spyderman, for every well-focused portrait i have two other negs with focus missed :) Even the first shot I attached is misfocused slightly.
Close-up portraits are among the biggest challenges with such cameras: it is easy to lose the focus when moving the eye from focusing to composition with external VF.
 
Varjag

If you frame the shot and note where the rangefinder spot is when you move from the external to the rangefinder, then you can focus on the near eye and shift the rangefinder spot back to where it was before and shoot immediately.

It is even simpler to move back a bit so that you can keep the rangefinder spot on the near eye. Not so useful with chrome film, marginal with a scanner, but works ok with an enlarger...

It may be easier with a 135mm where the external finder is a 'nice' fraction of the rangefinder and one can use the rangefinder as a poor mans viewfinder. (If you have a Kiev or Contax that is.)

Noel
 
The other thing is stopping down 1/2 stop will help the contrast a lot even with a hood. On my J9 there is a ring of ground glass which has not been blackened, which is screened a bit at f2.2 and smaller.

I'm waiting on Russ doing a page on improving the contrast of Ru lens. If he has not been too distracted by his folder or parts.

Noel
 
w3rk5 said:
Great shot Steve. Now I want a J-9. I've already lost at 2 attempts to get one on *bay.

I hope mine will be in this week. I'd like to give it a test drive this weekend.
 
Xmas said:
If you frame the shot and note where the rangefinder spot is when you move from the external to the rangefinder, then you can focus on the near eye and shift the rangefinder spot back to where it was before and shoot immediately.
Thanks for the hint Xmas, haven't thought of this before.
 
Jupiter-9 for FED3b

Jupiter-9 for FED3b

Hi, I am looking for a lens for portraits for my FED-3b and I am considering Jupiter-9.
Will it work fine with my FED? Will the built-in rangefinder/viewfinder be able to get accurated focus? Thanks.
 
I've got a wonderful 1960 KMZ J-9 in Contax mount, with a magnificent deep blue coating, lens body & optical elements in perfect shape... but the focusing was stiff when I bought it and now it is even more stiff, i've got to force to turn the focus ring. If anyone is able to dissasemble it and relube it, please send me a note so we can discuss the terms :)

I'm not considering doing it myself because I've already screwed up enough lenses by trying the DIY method.

Thank you in advance!

Max
 
colyn said:
I like to win.. :p

It came in today and its better than expected. Glass is clean with no signs of hazing, fungus, or cleaning marks. Focus properly at all focus points on a ground glass at the film plane..
 
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