Just about to start developing my own B&W

[BJ Bignell]

I can't comment about the "twiddly" thing. I always invert, 'cause that is the extent of my knowledge (and equipment). I personally don't use stop; I just use water. I do about one-half of the Ilford inversion rinse method between dev and fix. There are many opinions about whether or not one should use stop; my opinion is that it doesn't matter!

I use Ilford rapid fixer: For old-tech films (HP5, etc), I fix for four to five minutes, and for new-tech films (Delta, etc) I fix for up to 10. I agitate similar to during the development cycle; perhaps a bit less. The longer fix times also help to clear any colour from the film base.

For washing, both methods work sufficiently well if done properly. The Ilford inversion method is much more economical with water, which is important to me.

When loading the film, I try not to touch the film surface, but I don't try that hard. I don't think it matters much; the film rubs all over itself, and the canister, and the insides of the camera before I get to it. However, before I start loading onto reels, I always wash and rinse my hands thoroughly, and then make sure they are completely dry. This way, if I do touch the film a bit, I don't leave any hand grease.

 

[markinlondon]

Hi Jamie,

congratulations on your first roll. I've done a lot of testing on Delta 400 recently and have found that DDX gives (me at least) the best results. I like it rated at EI 500 and developed for about 9 minutes, Ilford suggest 9.5 minutes. Download the datasheet from www.ilfordphoto.com for Delta 400. They suggest 8 minutes for EI400, but I've not found any reason to use that. Delta 400 is pretty fast in DDX.
It sounds like you're doing everything else all OK. I also use the Ilford water saving wash method and have had no problems so far. I usually give Delta a couple of extra rinses as the pink dye seems more persistent than in HP5.
Try testing your fix time with the film leader. Just drop it into working strength fixer in daylight and swirl it around until the film is clear. Then fix for twice this time in the tank. Do this test every few rolls, once the clearing time is double the original time, the fixer is just about exhausted and should be discarded.
Loading reels is just a matter of practice really, I'd sacrifice a roll and just load it over and over until you're comfortable with the process.


Mark

 

[jamiewakeham]

Ooh - is there a critical temperature for washing? I was very careful about getting the water for the chemicals to the right temperature, but I simply washed in cold!

Jamie

 

[BJ Bignell]

Keep your temperatures the same; failing to do so may cause reticulation. Try to keep your rinse water within about five degrees of your development temperature*. You can rinse with running water, and gradually cool down to straight cold. Just don't rush it!


* I keep my water "within about five degrees" by sticking my finger under the tap and saying, "Yep, that's about right!"

 

[jamiewakeham]

Ah. Fair enough. My tap water seems to be at 19 degrees C, and I kept all the chemistry at 20C. That'll be close enough, then! May have to watch this more closely in winter though.

I developed the 400 for 8 minutes, as per the massive dev chart. Seems to have worked ok. As I said, I fixed for five, as per the bottle. I should go for longer with Delta? OK.

Thanks for all the help, people! I think my only remaining question as the one about re-using the Drysonal...

Cheers
Jamie

 

[markinlondon]

Is Drysonal a wetting agent? If so I'd reuse it for a few rolls, that's what I do with photoflo. Make up a litre of working solution in deionised water and toss after five or six rolls.

Mark

 

[jamiewakeham]

It's supposed to dry the film faster - you dunk in Drysonal, squeegee (sic?) and then hang the negs. They did seem to dry nearly instantly, and with no discernable collection of dust at all. Not a huge amount on the net about it - it's available, amongst other places, here: http://www.silverprint.co.uk/chem32.html

Cheers
Jamie

 

[Andy K]

All of Ilford's currently available line is listed here.

For a first developer I learned with Agfa Rodinal (now marketed as Agfaphoto Rodinal), it is very cheap, is a great developer, and can be diluted many times (I usually get at least 50 to 60 rolls worth of development from a 500ml bottle).

The massive Development Chart will also be useful to you.

 

[markinlondon]

It's supposed to dry the film faster - you dunk in Drysonal, squeegee (sic?) and then hang the negs. They did seem to dry nearly instantly, and with no discernable collection of dust at all. Not a huge amount on the net about it - it's available, amongst other places, here: http://www.silverprint.co.uk/chem32.html

Cheers
Jamie

Oh! that's going to get very expensive if you don't reuse it. Sorry, I've no experience of this stuff. It would have been useful when I was having serious drying mark problems a few months ago though.

Mark

 

[traveller]

Everything important said that I, being myself a newbie too, could tell you. But a thought and one little tip from me.

I'm not so sure that Drysonal is a real good thing. It adds another chemical to the process and could affect the long term stability of the emulsion. Maybe I'm wrong but in my eyes I don't think it's necessary.

To avoid water stains why not, after the last bath in deionized water with wetting agent, put the loaded and a empty spool for balance in a salad centrifuge? 2-3 minutes work and no water stains ;-)

 

[Stuart John]

ID 11 is a good developer and not a bad place to start. It comes in powder form so you have to mix the stock solution first. The stock solution will keep in full airtight bottles for at least 6 months. Some people don't like mixing and storing stock solutions and find HC110 to be a good alternative. HC110 keeps very well as a concentrate and can be diluted before use and used one shot. It is often recomened to choose one film and one developer and learn to master them rather than jumping around from one film and developer to the next. The problem with choosing one is if you choose a combo that you just don't like you could be put of all together. If I had to choose one combo it would be TriX and HC110 but I know many others prefer TriX in D76 (ID11). If I had to choose just one developer for all my films it would be D76 (ID11). There may well be better developers for the films you want to use I have never used Delta 100 or 400.

 

[pesphoto]

Personnally, I'd recommend using Sprint. Its very similar to D76 and comes in liquid form.
My usual dilution is 1:9 at 9 minutes @68 degrees. Consistent results, good shadow detail and nice grain.

 

[erikhaugsby]

No doubts: Ilford DD-X. Perfect for any Ilford film. It's a one-shot developer, so it's not the cheapest route, but it's very versatile. Assuming, of course, that you can find it...

Can anyone confirm if Ilford is currently making DD-X?

one National Camera (in Golden Valley, MN) store still stocks it regularily, and it doesn't cost that much per bottle--$12.50 for 1 liter of DD-X, recommended to be dilluted at 1+4.