Just bought my first Ikon
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wakarimasen
Well-known
The camera arrived today, and it's a beauty in near mint condition. Compared to the Leicas, it's definitely lighter and feels perhaps in between a Bessa and a Leica so far as the intangible 'quality' factor is concerned. However, much of that may be down to sheer heft, which is no real guarantee of anything.
One thing has confirmed my suspicions: I think I prefer a built-in meter, to a 'clip on:' be it an MR or anything else. Also, the option of AE does seem very nice indeed. A comparison with an M7 would be very interesting indeed.
froyd
Veteran
I just spent the day shooting exclusively with the ZM and a 21 / 35 combo. I like the experience, and it's slowly becoming second nature to adjust my eye to bring back the RF patch in the VF --either that, or I'm becoming more tolerant of the flaw.
The one thing that stuck out was how much better the ZM is as a Manual metering camera than AE. In AE, I kept wishing it had the AE-lock system of the M7 and many other cameras: half-press lock, and recompose. I much prefer that approach to exposure compensation or reaching for the button centered at the back of the ZM. I even prefer the AE lock of the Contax G.
In Manual mode, the fact that the meter readout is tucked away on the left side of the VF becomes a tremendous assets for those who, like me, prefer an uncluttered VF. I peek to the left, adjust exposure, and then shoot away happily without ever paying attention to the meter unless the light changes.
In AE mode, the hard to see readout is a hindrance because with AE it's mandatory to keep an eye on what the camera decides it's the optimal exposure...did the lamp in the back skew the reading too much? how about the metallic reflection from the coffee table? etc. Trying to test the AE mode, I found myself shooting at speeds twice as high from my initial guide reading off the palm of my hand +1 stop. I probably fired off three shots before realizing something in the frame was tricking the AE.
Still, since I prefer manual metering, I like that the ZM is very discreet in this respect, and the single 50mm and 35mm framelines, are a luxury that only M2 owners can share.
One other consideration about built in meters, since I'm also trying to decide between internal or external... don't you find that you can be a lot faster with external meters because your camera can be set and ready to go without even raising it to your eye?
The one thing that stuck out was how much better the ZM is as a Manual metering camera than AE. In AE, I kept wishing it had the AE-lock system of the M7 and many other cameras: half-press lock, and recompose. I much prefer that approach to exposure compensation or reaching for the button centered at the back of the ZM. I even prefer the AE lock of the Contax G.
In Manual mode, the fact that the meter readout is tucked away on the left side of the VF becomes a tremendous assets for those who, like me, prefer an uncluttered VF. I peek to the left, adjust exposure, and then shoot away happily without ever paying attention to the meter unless the light changes.
In AE mode, the hard to see readout is a hindrance because with AE it's mandatory to keep an eye on what the camera decides it's the optimal exposure...did the lamp in the back skew the reading too much? how about the metallic reflection from the coffee table? etc. Trying to test the AE mode, I found myself shooting at speeds twice as high from my initial guide reading off the palm of my hand +1 stop. I probably fired off three shots before realizing something in the frame was tricking the AE.
Still, since I prefer manual metering, I like that the ZM is very discreet in this respect, and the single 50mm and 35mm framelines, are a luxury that only M2 owners can share.
One other consideration about built in meters, since I'm also trying to decide between internal or external... don't you find that you can be a lot faster with external meters because your camera can be set and ready to go without even raising it to your eye?
wakarimasen
Well-known
I've had the opposite experience with using the MR meter on my M4-P. By the time I've brought the camera to my eye and used the meter, then set the aperture and shutter speed and finally focused, I've sometimes missed the shot. This happened a few times at a wedding this weekend. I'm sure this is just a lack of experience (and practice) on my part, but it tends to be self-perpetuating: meaning that I don't use the cameras as much as I would like.
When I had my Bessa R I used it much more due to the ease of the inbuilt meter, activated by a half-press of the shutter. This is the reason I thought I'd gamble on the Ikon: it's a relatively affordable way of determining whether or not I'm happier with the flexibility of semi-automation when I 'need' it.
When I had my Bessa R I used it much more due to the ease of the inbuilt meter, activated by a half-press of the shutter. This is the reason I thought I'd gamble on the Ikon: it's a relatively affordable way of determining whether or not I'm happier with the flexibility of semi-automation when I 'need' it.
froyd
Veteran
You clearly have a different approach than I do, but even if you keep the ZM, you might want to try using manual metering and then forget about metering unless the light changes. On bright days, if the sunny environments are sunny 11, I usually find that the shadows are -3. Having a couple of aperture ranges "ready to go" makes me really fast, faster than if I had to check exposure for each and every shot.
You can look at it as the exposure equivalent of zone focusing or hyperfocal focusing. AF is faster usually than manual focusing, but hyper or zone focusing is faster than either, because you are pre-focused and ready to click so your mind is focused 100% on the image capture no blinking exposure lights or the misaligned RF patch.
Of course, your mileage might vary, but give it a shot. This is from a guy that used to matrix meter everything 15 years ago!
You can look at it as the exposure equivalent of zone focusing or hyperfocal focusing. AF is faster usually than manual focusing, but hyper or zone focusing is faster than either, because you are pre-focused and ready to click so your mind is focused 100% on the image capture no blinking exposure lights or the misaligned RF patch.
Of course, your mileage might vary, but give it a shot. This is from a guy that used to matrix meter everything 15 years ago!
Swldstn
Member
Just about to get mine!
Just about to get mine!
Well, finally closed the deal to purchase a lightly used Ikon ZM (black) and ZM 35mm f/2 so in a few days I will also be a proud owner. Look forward to learning a lot more on this forum.
Just about to get mine!
Well, finally closed the deal to purchase a lightly used Ikon ZM (black) and ZM 35mm f/2 so in a few days I will also be a proud owner. Look forward to learning a lot more on this forum.
Swldstn
Member
OK, now that I have it I got a roll of Tri-X 400 to brake it in but wondering what others are using for film these days. B+W, Color for Portraits and Landscapes. Help me out and let me know.
Thanks.
Thanks.
froyd
Veteran
There are some good recommendation threads in the Film forum (check the upper left list of sub forums, above the mentors' names), here.
Sounds like are developing yourself, so you'll want film and developer pairings for best results in particular situations or for particular development goals (e.g. best tonality, minimum grain, low light shooting, etc.)
I no longer develop my own, so in C-41 I like XP2, Portra, and Kodak Gold for a cheaper alternative. I use slide film rarely these days, but you ought to try Velvia once for the wow effect. With the right subject the ultra saturated colors are eye-popping.
Sounds like are developing yourself, so you'll want film and developer pairings for best results in particular situations or for particular development goals (e.g. best tonality, minimum grain, low light shooting, etc.)
I no longer develop my own, so in C-41 I like XP2, Portra, and Kodak Gold for a cheaper alternative. I use slide film rarely these days, but you ought to try Velvia once for the wow effect. With the right subject the ultra saturated colors are eye-popping.
chathaway
Established
Let's see some shots! I heard that you bought your camera and lens from a great guy. Seriously, I'm looking forward to seeing some of your work.
simon.chung
Member
Great choice on the ZM Ikon + 28mm combo. You get the best 28mm viewfinder!
I used to keep an Ikon just for shooting on 28mm, but I didn't use it that often and eventually sold it..
I used to keep an Ikon just for shooting on 28mm, but I didn't use it that often and eventually sold it..
froyd
Veteran
The framelines of the Ikon, while a little on the thin side, are one of my favorite features about the camera because they feel so uncluttered compared to the past-M4 Leicas. I espeicially like how the 35 and 50 stand on their own.
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