Keyne
Established
After much research and deliberation (choosing between the Fuji, a Sony A7, and a Rolleiflex TLR) I decided to take the plunge and go with the Fuji X-T1. Bit of a late Christmas gift from my wife.
I have been using a Leica M8 for the last 4 plus years and loved it but I wanted something that nicely complimented the M8. The Fuji handling is great (love the controls) and with weather sealing, usable high ISO, AF, zoom, and ability to use M mount lenses I think it was a great choice. Also, my M8 files required a lot of workflow which I enjoyed most of the time but in some ways it was getting a bit tedious, so I am looking forward to being able to use photos right out of the camera (RAW+JPEG). We shall see how all this comes together but I am super excited!
I just started learning how to use it last night and there are A LOT of functions and settings but at least the major controls are available via switches, dials, and levers on the camera body (yay!). Anyway, looking for any recommended books, websites, guides, etc. that folks here found useful to learn how to use the camera. Also, interested in what settings most people are using.
I have been using a Leica M8 for the last 4 plus years and loved it but I wanted something that nicely complimented the M8. The Fuji handling is great (love the controls) and with weather sealing, usable high ISO, AF, zoom, and ability to use M mount lenses I think it was a great choice. Also, my M8 files required a lot of workflow which I enjoyed most of the time but in some ways it was getting a bit tedious, so I am looking forward to being able to use photos right out of the camera (RAW+JPEG). We shall see how all this comes together but I am super excited!
I just started learning how to use it last night and there are A LOT of functions and settings but at least the major controls are available via switches, dials, and levers on the camera body (yay!). Anyway, looking for any recommended books, websites, guides, etc. that folks here found useful to learn how to use the camera. Also, interested in what settings most people are using.
MCTuomey
Veteran
Congrats on the camera! I've been using one for the past year. Likes (in no special order): auto iso/auto exp, high iso performance (i shoot in dark clubs), (RAW) file malleability, controls, native lenses. Dislikes: low(er) light AF performance, continuous AF performance, EVF in high contrast outdoor light.
Accessories I find useful: expanded size eyecup, handgrip (small one with arca-type quick release base).
Accessories I find useful: expanded size eyecup, handgrip (small one with arca-type quick release base).
dogberryjr
[Pithy phrase]
XT-1, A7 or a TLR, well that's quite a range of options. I've had the Fuji sitting in my Amazon cart for months now, and the A7 II for a good while, thinking to use the Fuji with native lenses or the Sony with Leica lenses. It's nice to have choices, I suppose. Have fun with it.
noimmunity
scratch my niche
I saw the silver version the other day and thought it looked really beautiful.
The XT-1 looks very very nice. I'm holding out for the XP2.
The XT-1 looks very very nice. I'm holding out for the XP2.
willie_901
Veteran
Start out using as few automated settings as possible or no automation at all.
In the beginning, don't use the electronic shutter.
I usually don't exceed ISO 400 as I prefer to push raw files during post-production to achieve brightness. This won't work for you with JPEGs. ISO 1600 delivers very nice results. Higher ISOs are practical especially if you are careful to maximize exposure.
I am told for in-camera JPEGs one should always use the lowest possible sharpening and noise filtering settings. I have no idea if this is correct.
Once you are comfortable using the camera without automation, add the automation features of interest. Fujifim's automation philosophy is different than other brands' and new owners can be confused by some of the interactions and decisions made by the automation algorithms.
Unless I am using a flash (which I always use manually), I set the EVF up so the it's brightness matches the in-camera JPEG's brightness.
I often automatically bracket three exposures in +/- 1/3 or 2/3 stop steps.
I often focus using the AF manually by pressing the AFL button. Unlike my X-Pro 1 where I usually focus and recompose, I typically use XT-1's the D-Pad to move the focus points around.
I use focus peaking and the Focus Assist button to confirm focus or for tricky situations. When the XT-1 uses contrast detection AF it may choose a nearby unintended object for focus. The Focus Assist spit window(not spilt focusing aid) is a quick way to confirm proper focus. The split focusing aid can be useful in some situations. It takes a while to discover what focusing techniques and tools work best in different situations. Most of the time I don't have to switch between focusing techniques. However knowing what works best in difficult circumstances is useful.
I use Focus Area mode because this mode prevents the camera from deciding where to focus.
In some cases I use face detection.
Eventually you should experiment with focus tracking mode which uses phase detection AF. The phase detection sensors are located in the center of the frame. Your initial impression will be the focus tracking system is hunting and can't possibly focus. However when you press the shutter the PDAF quickly focuses. This works best with newer XF lenses that have faster AF motors.
The electronic shutter can be useful for silent operation or for very short shutter times. Again, some features don't work or work differently in ES mode. In some situations the ES causes artifacts. This can confuse and frustrate new owners. I only use ES for specific purposes.
I never leave home without two fully charged batteries. For a long day I will carry five. I have never used more than three.
I find the camera easier to use with the vertical battery grip even though the size increases.
Avoid DR mode (DR > 100). DR mode automatically invokes underexposure by one or two stops and then selectively pushes shadow regions. Fujifilm decided when the scenes dynamic range is challenging photographers must be protected from blown highlights. Of course underexposure limits the maximum possible analog dynamic range of the sensor when the shutter is open. For raw DR > 100 is counter productive. For JPEGs it may be useful. I really don't know.
In the beginning, don't use the electronic shutter.
I usually don't exceed ISO 400 as I prefer to push raw files during post-production to achieve brightness. This won't work for you with JPEGs. ISO 1600 delivers very nice results. Higher ISOs are practical especially if you are careful to maximize exposure.
I am told for in-camera JPEGs one should always use the lowest possible sharpening and noise filtering settings. I have no idea if this is correct.
Once you are comfortable using the camera without automation, add the automation features of interest. Fujifim's automation philosophy is different than other brands' and new owners can be confused by some of the interactions and decisions made by the automation algorithms.
Unless I am using a flash (which I always use manually), I set the EVF up so the it's brightness matches the in-camera JPEG's brightness.
I often automatically bracket three exposures in +/- 1/3 or 2/3 stop steps.
I often focus using the AF manually by pressing the AFL button. Unlike my X-Pro 1 where I usually focus and recompose, I typically use XT-1's the D-Pad to move the focus points around.
I use focus peaking and the Focus Assist button to confirm focus or for tricky situations. When the XT-1 uses contrast detection AF it may choose a nearby unintended object for focus. The Focus Assist spit window(not spilt focusing aid) is a quick way to confirm proper focus. The split focusing aid can be useful in some situations. It takes a while to discover what focusing techniques and tools work best in different situations. Most of the time I don't have to switch between focusing techniques. However knowing what works best in difficult circumstances is useful.
I use Focus Area mode because this mode prevents the camera from deciding where to focus.
In some cases I use face detection.
Eventually you should experiment with focus tracking mode which uses phase detection AF. The phase detection sensors are located in the center of the frame. Your initial impression will be the focus tracking system is hunting and can't possibly focus. However when you press the shutter the PDAF quickly focuses. This works best with newer XF lenses that have faster AF motors.
The electronic shutter can be useful for silent operation or for very short shutter times. Again, some features don't work or work differently in ES mode. In some situations the ES causes artifacts. This can confuse and frustrate new owners. I only use ES for specific purposes.
I never leave home without two fully charged batteries. For a long day I will carry five. I have never used more than three.
I find the camera easier to use with the vertical battery grip even though the size increases.
Avoid DR mode (DR > 100). DR mode automatically invokes underexposure by one or two stops and then selectively pushes shadow regions. Fujifilm decided when the scenes dynamic range is challenging photographers must be protected from blown highlights. Of course underexposure limits the maximum possible analog dynamic range of the sensor when the shutter is open. For raw DR > 100 is counter productive. For JPEGs it may be useful. I really don't know.
jarski
Veteran
Congrats for op 
Been also contemplating about this, and Oly EM1. Snappy autofocus is one of key features personally, and keep the package smaller than DSLR. Especially tele-lenses on reflex cameras tend to get too big to lug around when traveling long periods.
Been also contemplating about this, and Oly EM1. Snappy autofocus is one of key features personally, and keep the package smaller than DSLR. Especially tele-lenses on reflex cameras tend to get too big to lug around when traveling long periods.
MCTuomey
Veteran
Helpful link I used to set up my camera initially:
http://www.the-owl.co.uk/hints-and-tips/shooting-weddings-with-a-fuji.html
Jack Sparrow
Well-known
Nice, congrats! It's an excellent camera.
Keyne
Established
Wow, awesome site. Thank you! He also has a section for JPEG settings. I plan to shoot JPEG and RAW so it should be fun to play with those.
macjim
Well-known
Oh, oh, oh, ooh! I'm jealous... Maybe once I get back to employment, I can get one too. I fancy the gun metal and black version. Enjoy!
noimmunity
scratch my niche
I saw that version in Taipei last week and really liked the way it looks. If I were interested in an XT-1, that would be my first choice.
But I'm holding off to see what the XP2 turns into.
MCTuomey
Veteran
Yeah, if nothing else, an XP2 would solve the problem of me jamming my ample proboscis against the LCD screen of my XT1 all the time
Lawrence Sheperd
Well-known
If you want to hear from a pro who has switched almost exclusively to the X-T1 check out Zack Arias, from Atlanta GA.
His website: http://beam.zackarias.com/#!/index
His blog: http://dedpxl.com/
He has a lot of thoughts on the Fuji gear on his blog; mainly photo portfolios on his website.
His website: http://beam.zackarias.com/#!/index
His blog: http://dedpxl.com/
He has a lot of thoughts on the Fuji gear on his blog; mainly photo portfolios on his website.
danielsterno
making soup from mud
Good recommendation Larry- Just spent a fair amount of time on his site.
Keyne
Established
Great site thanks!
noimmunity
scratch my niche
Yeah, if nothing else, an XP2 would solve the problem of me jamming my ample proboscis against the LCD screen of my XT1 all the time
I felt the same way just using it in the store! Felt like I had to apologize for the greasy LCD when I gave it back to the store clerk LOL!
noimmunity
scratch my niche
He has a nice appraisal of the differences between the XP1 and the XT1, and mentions that the XT1 is really just a place holder while waiting for the XP2.
As for me, my shooting is deliberate enough these days that I'm able to get by with the XP1. Actually, the aesthetic look of the body (particularly after the mods I gave it) make a positive contribution to establishing a "slow" rapport with the subjects.
Range-rover
Veteran
Congrat's on your new camera, I just got into Fuji myself and it's a great
system. They just seem to do things different than the other company's
and I like that.
Range
system. They just seem to do things different than the other company's
and I like that.
Range
kshapero
South Florida Man
Just got an XT-1 from an RFF'er. Very satisfied. Gonna have fun with this.
rbelyell
Well-known
congrats. i just got one as well. the jpegs are great but there are many issues with software programs like lightroom properly interpreting raw files from this silly xtrans sensor, so dont be alarmed if you find these unsatisfactory upon download. in many situations i think you will find the necessary raw workflow just as tedious as you did your m8. in the first instance, if you have lightroom, try going to the camera calibration module and choosing one of the fuji film settings vs the default adobe standard, it will save you a lot of time over making the dozen or so individual corrections that may be necessary because of xtrans.
if you are careful on exposure you can shoot up to 6400, even on jpeg, and unlike sony, fuji jpegs ooc are fabulous.
also, ive found while on a macro level m lenses, with the exception of superwides, yield pleasing results, try not to look really really closely because there is definitely a little funk going on there. manual focus aids make it easy and effective, except in bright glaring sunlight when you should plan to only use autofocus lenses because the evf is pretty worthless for anything beyond basic framing.
if you are careful on exposure you can shoot up to 6400, even on jpeg, and unlike sony, fuji jpegs ooc are fabulous.
also, ive found while on a macro level m lenses, with the exception of superwides, yield pleasing results, try not to look really really closely because there is definitely a little funk going on there. manual focus aids make it easy and effective, except in bright glaring sunlight when you should plan to only use autofocus lenses because the evf is pretty worthless for anything beyond basic framing.