Just want a simple advice from the experts...

H-103 beats J-8(M) in poor light conditions due to better contrast. My H-103 is also *far* sharper wide open to f/4 than my J-8M sample. The center resolution at 1.8 is claimed to be 45 lp/mm, versus 34 of J-8 at f/2, but aided with better contrast the perceived difference is dramatic.

The Helios (being a Planar/Biotar design) is however more prone to flare: a hood is a must.
 
pedro.m.reis said:
Hi.
I want to buy my first russian RF. I'm a bit overwhelmed with the multitude of brands, lens, mounts, formats, etc.
Just wanted an advice about a combination camera+lens of one of those leica copies with a good relation in price/performance. An estimated price would be apreciated.

Tks
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I'm NOT an expert but my choices have been(in the order I got 'em): Kiev 4a, FED2, Zorki 3m, FED5, Voigtlander R.
The FED2 I have sold because it's viewfinder was too small for my vision. Otherwise it's a very good camera.
The Kiev was my first FSU camera and I like using it and have got some good results. The lens choices are fewer for Contax mount--which is a good thing, I think.
The Zorki is still my favorite FSU camera: BIG viewfinder, full range of shutter speeds, strap lugs, and WAAY better looking than any of my other cameras!
The FED5 is a plain jane workhorse. Not fancy(OK, it's ugly as sin) but it has a light meter--not coupled--and while it's basic, it does work.
I treated myself to a Voigtlander Bessa R recently and now I carry the Bessa and the Zorki 3m with several lenses.
As has been said before: buy from Alex-photo(on ebay) or Oleg orFedka and you will be happy with a WORKING camera.
And always advance the film before changing the shutter speed!
As to lenses, I like the Jupiter-8(50mm/f2) very much. In fact it is on my Bessa now. The industar 61 is good but different. And there is also the Industar 50--I have a collapsible version that I like alot-- it's on my Zorki 3m and makes for a very compact package.
Welcome aboard and please let us know what you decide on for your first) FSU camera(there will be more after)!
Rob
 
Laika said:
If you haven't seen it already make sure you devour Jim Blazik's web page on Soviet RF's, his custom refinishes are to die for. Here is a link to his (and lots of others :D ) fav shooters page, the main page is linked at the bottom.

http://www.geocities.com/fzorkis/gallery.html
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Jim probably has assembled and disassembled more Soviet cameras than most factory technicians. He does some beautiful cosmetic work. I think his best is this ZORKI 6 .
 
I agree that the sellers mentioned above deserve your attention, but I can add a few other ebayers to the list.
Alex uses two ebay-names: 'alex-photo' and 'asr-photo', he has a good inventory on supplies (lens caps, hoods, take-up spools,...) But don't assume your camera will include a lenscap; if you want one, ask for it.
'cupog' is in Slovakia and has a much wider inventory, including many East-German and Czech brands.
'grizzly33bear' runs a very smooth operation and I got some really nice products from them.
I also had positive experiences with 'ruscamera' (NOT 'russcameras1111'!!!), 'karizma', 'kassiapeya' and 'bestoleum'.

Wim
 
pedro.m.reis said:
So ... after a long consideration (not) ... heavy study on the soviet rf (not), and 4 weeks explaining my (pregnant and over "hormonized") wife why i need another F"#$" machine and why also this one is older than us.... i saw this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7549856117&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

and i could't resist anymore. :)

Now begins my 3 or 4 weeks waiting for my first Russian RF ...
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Looks like a good choice -- one of the early, engraved models -- they tend to be better built. Hope you enjoy it -- looks like a good price.
 
If you look in my gallery for a Helios 103 shot (on a Kiev 4AM) entitled "Scarves in the wind," you will see how contrasty the lens is. I have an ancient scanner that does little credit to the image; however it easily went 11X14 and the scarve maker used it in her image collection (and bought it for actual money). This was taken in winter on a very windy day. The camera was a loaner from Rick Beckwich, and I subesquently bought a Kiev 4AM but it has the Jupiter 8. I'm looking for a Helios 103, not that there's anything wrong with the J8, but I like the faster, contrastier, Helios 103.

I wish I knew something about computers so I could just make a post and say see this, and people could click on it. I have to go to Fedzilla_bob when I want to change my avatar (which I'm really tired of looking at). In defense of my obvious doofusness (new word), I was born way before television. Old dogs, it seems, learn new tricks slowly - if at all.

Ted
 
Can we get a decent shot @ 1/15 without a tripod? I always beleived (read it somewere on the web) that the minimum speed to get a decent shot handheld was 1/focal lenght, that is, with an 50mm we must shoot at least 1/60 to get a sharp/focused picture... I'm i wrong? I dont have "surgeon" hands :D
 
I think with some rangefinders its very possible to get a good shot with 1/30th and even a decently sharp one with 1/15th. Just my experience. with an slr min 1/60th.
 
You can get a good shot at 1/15th handheld. Don't drink too much coffee ;) and try to brace yourself against something and you should be OK.

 
And if you feel reaaally good you can get a goody at 1/8 sec! 1/4 might be a stretch, though.

However, when you blow things up, don't expect crystal clear prints! For that you'll definitely need a tripod.
 
I use a Leningrad meter for my Zorki 1, Pedro. Very accurate; I will take its word over the built-in TTL meter in my EOS600, and am usually right to do so.

Remember it's an incident meter, though; you need to be in the same light (ideally the same place) as the subject.

Jamie
 
jamiewakeham said:
I use a Leningrad meter for my Zorki 1, Pedro. Very accurate; I will take its word over the built-in TTL meter in my EOS600, and am usually right to do so.

Remember it's an incident meter, though; you need to be in the same light (ideally the same place) as the subject.

Jamie
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How can we use an incident meter in landscape photo? Is it possible?
 
pedro.m.reis said:
How can we use an incident meter in landscape photo? Is it possible?
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If the light is consistant between subject and camera metering from wherever you are standing is fine. Alternatively you can take the dome off the meter point it at the scene and get a reflective reading. Some meters can take a spotmeter attachment. But... if you are shooting landsapes you can always just bracket the exposure. :)
 
pedro.m.reis said:
How can we use an incident meter in landscape photo? Is it possible?
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point the incident meter toward the light that is shining on the landscape ( the sun), as long as where you are standing and the distant landscape have the same light you should be ok. However if there is a shadow from a cloud on your area of interest and not on you you will need to do some adjustments to correct the exposure. Bracket over and under what you think is correct. Regards, Dave
 
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