Keeping Track of Films, on the film...

[Tom A]

At the start of every roll, I shoot my "Tag" card. A simple small white board that can be wiped clean - though it does spread black dust - it works. I usually note camera with # number and lens, with # number it is one of many similar lenses (Nikkor 50mm f1.4 - of which I have too many!). If I have to reload while out and about - I just shoot the first frame of the new roll of the same subject that was the last shot on the finished roll.
Bigger lots of film (travel) - I simply tag the film, gaffer tape and a running tally of numbers. Usually not a big problem in keeping track of lenses and cameras. I rarely change lenses - rather carry 3 bodies with my standard lenses, a wide, medium wide (35) and a 50 or occasionally a 90.
The differences between the field of view are distinct enough to make it easy to separate them. Many of my cameras also have notches in the film gates - so that is another help.

 

[Pioneer]

It is easy to know exactly what film you are using when you shoot one film only, Kodak TMX100. I take note of each roll # and some image highlights in my Daytimer. When the roll is finished I use a Sharpie to write the roll # on the outside of the cassette can. Everything gets transferred to a computer spreadsheet when I develop and then to the top of the Printfile page when I file the negatives. Simple and easy for me to remember.

 

[Spanik]

Do you guys take photo's between all that note taking?

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Do you guys take photo's between all that note taking?

Yes, I shoot about 200 rolls a year. Keeping notes is VITAL, especially for people like me who do fine art and documentary work professionally. A lot of my earlier work is a problem now because I cannot remember the dates and in some cases the locations where I shot things. I deeply regret not keeping notes back then.

 

[Tom A]

Film tag board helps for local shooting. Each film is filed in PrintFile pages - numbered sequentially with a very simple alpa numerical code. I have slightly different codes for travel and "home town" shooting just to keep things simple. But like Chris Crawford - there are a couple of 1000 rolls without tagging from the 70's and early 80's. Sometimes you can do forensic analysis and figure out when and where.
I started the current system in 1986/87 and there are now 10 000+ rolls in that file. I simply date by month/year - unless there is a specific reason for more exact dates.
When I print something - the file number is written on the back of the print together with the date when it was printed. I dont do commercial work anymore - but when I did, tagging was crucial for keeping clients happy.
I like Flickr for scanned uploads - it becomes my contact sheet. Each roll is tagged with not only camera/lens - but also with film, developer information. Makes it easy to figure out what was used with what. Good note keeping is essential - maybe not when you are starting out - but a couple of decades later - it is a godsend!
My main regret is loosing a box of negatives in a move (we have lived in 7 different countries on three continents - and moves take its toll!). Most of my stuff from the 60's and early 70's is just gone. I think there was about 2000 negfiles in that box! Of course, in my memory they were really good shots - but that is probably heavily filtered through time.

 

[kanzlr]

Exify for iPhone works for me

 

[OddE]

...and if you've got an Android phone, I really find Exif4film useful.

It lets you keep track of multiple rolls of film at the same time, and allows you to build a database of cameras, lenses, film and filters so that the more you use it, the faster inputting data is.

Also, it has the (simple, but excellent!) feature that it remembers the exposure details of the previous shot - saving you further time when doing several exposures in short order (Which I guess most of us do once we get going.)

The GPS integration is a further bonus - it tags where the picture was taken, too.

Now, if I could only figure out how to make the app adapt shutter and aperture steps to my lenses/cameras, that would be nice. (Not much use having 1/3 aperture stops on a lens which only does full stops, etc.)


It also integrates nicely with Lightroom.

I have no affiliation with whoever develops Exif4film; I am just a happy user who find it more convenient than the notebooks I used to keep in the past. 🙂

 

[morback]

Thank you all, a lot of good info came out of this. All the smartphone apps are great, never thought of those, they will come in handy.

I guess I'll just use pen and paper to burn my first frame. I was wondering if there was a re-useable "tool" for this, like a wheel or flip board.

Not sure why I was thinking so complicated.

 

[Richard G]

This is one of the most interesting threads for ages. I've learnt a lot and downloaded two apps. I must say I was sorely tempted to propose a spoof method just to win the complexity competition, but I'll just watch a couple of more episodes of Get Smart instead. I do like Frank's simple solution for recording the camera used. Chris's method is appealing but I doubt I could stick to it.

 

[dct]

To ensure completely analog field work, I have small (visit cards size) blank cards which I use as basic information for each roll. Occasionally I shoot an additional frame with a GPS equipped digital P&S to keep better track of foreign locations and exact time and date.

After development and scanning I use my notes to insert complete metadata information into the picture files, like images from a digital body.

 

[sepiareverb]

You might try sharpie on the leader before you load? Never tried this myself but I might right now...

 

[meanstreetshooter]

PhotoNote records

PhotoNote records

I carry a Moleskine notebook in the field and write what I shot, where it was, when, and what gear, film, etc. I used.

After I develop the film, the roll goes in a print-file page, which has a roll number written on it, and in another notebook, I record the roll number, developing info (developer, time, temp, agitation, etc), gear used to shoot the photos, subject, location, date, etc.

I use the method Chris outlined, with minor differences.
For 35mm I use the larger Moleskine notebook to record the data. It fits nicely in the back pocket of my M-Classics bag or Domke F-2.

For MF, I use the smaller Moleskine notebook to save space in my hard cases.

For negative filing, I like the Paterson file system. Glassine pages and data sheets are all inside a binder for a uniform system.

 

[Paul Jenkin]

Techno route: Nikon F6 - you can embed data onto the film AND you can download exif data from the camera to show frame numbers and all settings used / recorded by the camera.

Manual route: pencil and paper.

The manual route requires a fair bit of discipline but, as it's very hands-on, it probably gets you more involved with the settings, etc (especially if you shoot manual or shutter / aperture priority).

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

Anyone go down the 7000i route? Asking because I've a 7000i body in the heap and wonder about getting it overhauled...

Regards, David

 

[sepiareverb]

Just ran a bunch of film, I marked one roll with a black sharpie before processing (along with my finger, I remembered after putting the lights out) and it remained on the film and the finger after processing through Developer (DD-X), Kodak Stop, Sprint Fix, Permawash and Sistan/Sprint End Run.

Yeah, I know I don't need to do the Permawash- old habits that test fine die hard.

 

[anjoca76]

I really like the idea of using the first frame to shoot a card with gear/day/locale/etc. Especially for slides--I have mounted slides that I have no idea what film I used unless I unmount (de-mount? dismount?) a frame and check. It seems so simple, yet it never occurred to me before. I try to jot such information down in a Moleskine notebook, but I admit I am not always consistent with this.

 

[Bill Clark]

You could type out the info on your computer and take a pic of the screen with the info showing.

Mac I use "text-edit"

Windows "word."

Or a sharpie pen writing the info. on the back of the contact sheet of the negs. RC paper works with Sharpie pen.

 

[Austerby]

I use the method Chris outlined, with minor differences.
For 35mm I use the larger Moleskine notebook to record the data. It fits nicely in the back pocket of my M-Classics bag or Domke F-2.

For MF, I use the smaller Moleskine notebook to save space in my hard cases.

I use a Leuchtterm 1917 notebook rather than a Moleskine. The Leuchtterms have a number of useful enhancements over the Moleskines, such as better quality paper.

 

[paradoxbox]

I usually just write notes on the film cartridge itself, when I put it into or take it out of the camera. I have a bunch of film cassettes pre-labeled for my leicas, kiev, etc..

 

[btgc]

All very well but if you are using a 6x9 with 8 shots it isn't very efficient.

Well, you even got some reserve to bracket exposure 😀

Back in the day, newspapers filed notches in the film guide rails
so the set-up guys, editors, and printers knew which
photographer to credit with the shot. Don't know how or if
they identified the film.
Best regards,
/Clay

Konica cameras have notches on sides of film gate, from factory. But right, one can do their own notches - bright idea.