Kentmere Anyone?

Roma

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Hi folks,
I've been using Ilford Multigrade fiber glossy paper here lately, but it's beginning to hit my pocket harder and harder. I want to find out if any of you are using Kentmore Fineprint VC and how you like it, especially compared with Ilford.

I know Kentmere Bromo-Iodid paper and it should make the prints look punchy with a long tonal range. I don't really have many complaints about Ilford, except for the price. I don't do any toning and prefer the cold and neutral look of the prints most of the time.

I spoke with folks at Freestyle and they don't recommend filters above 3 1/2 with Kentmere, which is fine since 95% of my prints don't require anything higher. The remaining 5% I can do on Ilford.

I use Ilford's Multigrade paper developer at 1:9 dilution.

Please post your development findings and any fine-tuning with Kentmere.


Thanks for your responses in advance!
 
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I'd like to hear also; Kentmere sells semi matte paper, and Forte doesn't any more, so I will be experimenting with it in the future.
So who has used it, and how do you feel about it?
 
I've been interested in their graded single-weight matte FB papers for a while, but I've never been compelled enough to actually order some.
I hope that somebody can give some "real-user" opinions on it.
 
I use Kentmere Bromide G3 as my standard FB paper for 35mm, and I've tried a little bit of Fineprint Warmtone VC as well.

Bromide is a very nice paper, takes selenium to a cool black without falling into that eggplant tone, and has nice clean whites. I couldn't get the Warmtone to turn when I toned it in Selenium, so perhaps it depends on the developer.

The semi-gloss (or semi-matt as they call it) is a really nice texture, it's nothing excessive and it gives that extra punch over a matt surface but not much more.

For the price, I don't think you can go wrong.
 
I will definitely give this paper a try myself and post my findings. The thing I would really like to hear about is how the paper holds up and if there are any kinks (so to speak). I've read some posts on photonet (I believe) where someone had a fogging issue with the paper when he washed it for longer than 30-45 minutes and the guy had to redo most of his 150 prints that he made for an exhibit.
Kentmore did respond to him that his issue was access washing. I know this is not an issue with Ilford for sure.
I'm one of those people who likes to try things for himself, but it definitely saves time to find out possible gatchas from others.
Any other Kentmore users willing to comment please?
 
It seems that I am in the same boat as everyone esle. I have a couple of packets on the shelf but haven't used them yet - unfortunately, they were the last things in the sale when the local shop stopped stocking printing materials....
 
When I use Kentmere, I develop, stop, fix, and leave in a holding water bath until the end of the printing session (can be a few hours). After that it's HCA, wash for 20 mins, and selenium tone the day after. Another dip of HCA, and wash for an hour.

Never had any problem with optical brighteners leeching out.
 
I've heard that Kentmere's papers don't tone as quickly as other brands, which to me could well be a plus- I usually selenium tone just enough to get the green out, and my old favorite (Forte) tended to go purpley if I wasn't VERY careful.
This, assuming it is true, could put some people off.
 
Bryce said:
I've heard that Kentmere's papers don't tone as quickly as other brands, which to me could well be a plus- I usually selenium tone just enough to get the green out, and my old favorite (Forte) tended to go purpley if I wasn't VERY careful.
This, assuming it is true, could put some people off.

Well, yeah, just like I said above: Warmtone VC did not turn much its color in selenium. It's annoying because it fails to deliver what it promises, a warmer tone. Bromide did not turn much either, but it's a bromide emulsion anyway, and is not inherently very sensitive to toners. However, I really like the slight coolness of tone it acquires.

Ilford papers do not tone much either. They get some Dmax enhancement, the green cast is removed as well, but unless you use their Warmtone papers, they will stay dead neutral.

Bergger/Forte/Emaks/Foma papers will react a lot to toners. Their emulsion is more sensitive, and I think might have a larger proportion of silver chloride. Forte Polywarmtone, for instance, just turns chocolate in selenium, which is beautiful.
 
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