OmegaB600
Member
Im curiously out of wack on this paper,
the package of paper came with a sheet with the following information
for developing, follow the chemical directions or in general 60-90 seconds at 20C
Fix per chemical makers directions. but says "generally fix for 3 minutes"
Then at lunch at work, I found an Ilford PDF for the paper that says fix for 30 SECONDS in ilford rapid fixer mixed 1:4 like i had it mixed..
So what idiot is writing such screwy things..
the package of paper came with a sheet with the following information
for developing, follow the chemical directions or in general 60-90 seconds at 20C
Fix per chemical makers directions. but says "generally fix for 3 minutes"
Then at lunch at work, I found an Ilford PDF for the paper that says fix for 30 SECONDS in ilford rapid fixer mixed 1:4 like i had it mixed..
So what idiot is writing such screwy things..
Cascadilla
Well-known
30 seconds in an ammonium thiosulphate fixer like Ilford rapid fixer would be correct for RC paper. With sodium thiosulphate fixers, the time would be longer--Kodak used to recommend 2 minutes for their RC papers. Maybe AI produced these instructions and hallucinated?
38Deardorff
Established
I only mix fixer 1:4 for fixing film. For prints i've always mixed at 1:9.Im curiously out of wack on this paper,
the package of paper came with a sheet with the following information
for developing, follow the chemical directions or in general 60-90 seconds at 20C
Fix per chemical makers directions. but says "generally fix for 3 minutes"
Then at lunch at work, I found an Ilford PDF for the paper that says fix for 30 SECONDS in ilford rapid fixer mixed 1:4 like i had it mixed..
So what idiot is writing such screwy things..
Cascadilla
Well-known
1:4 gives you a faster fixing time but 1:9 will also work just fine. The community college where I have taught uses 1:9 for print fixer and we train students to use a 2 minute time instead of 30 seconds. Since timing is done by looking up at the second hand on a clock it made sense not to have an extremely short time that could lead to fading or staining if not done precisely.I only mix fixer 1:4 for fixing film. For prints i've always mixed at 1:9.
38Deardorff
Established
1:9 is also much more economical if you're making big prints....1:4 gives you a faster fixing time but 1:9 will also work just fine. The community college where I have taught uses 1:9 for print fixer and we train students to use a 2 minute time instead of 30 seconds. Since timing is done by looking up at the second hand on a clock it made sense not to have an extremely short time that could lead to fading or staining if not done precisely.
OmegaB600
Member
1:4 gives you a faster fixing time but 1:9 will also work just fine. The community college where I have taught uses 1:9 for print fixer and we train students to use a 2 minute time instead of 30 seconds. Since timing is done by looking up at the second hand on a clock it made sense not to have an extremely short time that could lead to fading or staining if not done precisely.
I have never used chemicals or paper that could go with 30 seconds of fixing..
IF i did go with ilford rapid fixer mixed 1:9 would it really be a 2 minute fixing time?
im a cranky man, and i do like things easy at times. Its like me and rodinal,, I started doing the 1:25 and 1:50 dilutions and clock watching that 12 min or 14 min developing times on my film, only to realize 1:100 with agitation every 30min was just as nice.
Cascadilla
Well-known
Double check with Ilford's instructions, but I think that 2 minutes at 1:9 will probably be OK. When I was making prints for my commercial work the shorter time made sense for me and I was the only one in the darkroom so I had a developing timer with a foot pedal. The community college darkroom with 10-12 people working at the same time made that kind of timer impossible--can you imagine a dozen electronic timers randomly beeping and trying to figure out if it was your print that was ready?
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